Some real newbie questions about buying...

[West_the_GM_Guy]

OK, to the quick. I'm in the market to buy a 1967-1972 Chevy shortbed. I'm leaning towards 1968 or 1972 Chevy's, and especially the '72 GMC. Can't explain it, just something about those years I love. Anyway, I haven't owned a Chevy truck before, but wanted some advice about what to buy exactly. And then, what should I look out for, both the positives and negatives? Is there a year and style that is considered more worthy of restoring? Are 3/4 ton trucks less popular than 1/2 and full ton trucks? And then, since I live in Southern California, is there a resource to finding a decent truck other than Craigslist or eBay that don't have people asking show car prices? I know, alot of questions, but I'm new here (my first post actually) and excited about finding that sweet Chevy.

I should also note that my father (75 years old) is a retired GM master mechanic. This truck is another way to spend time together in the next few years. FYI, all he said was...pick out something you like and bring her home. Good advice, but I wanted some additional thoughts.

Anyway, thank you so much in advance.

[71swb4x4]

A couple notes. If it's a shortbed you want, 1/2 ton is your only option. There were no factory shortbeds other than 1/2 ton.
You are in a great area to find a solid truck. Patience is the key. Keep watching, the nice trucks at low prices probably sell quick, so you need to be checking craigslist daily. www.searchtempest.com is a great way to search all of your local craigslists at once. Don't be afraid to drive a little ways for the right truck.
Pay more money for a solid truck. Don't settle for a rust bucket simply because it's cheap. It will cost more in the long run.

As far as desireable years, to each there own. If you ask 6 people, you may get 6 different answers.

GMC's have much lower production than Chevrolet, so you may have to look a little harder. The nice thing is that people seem drawn to Chevy's more, so your chance of finding a solid GMC is probably pretty good.

[Sinister]

Welcome, I live in Studio City as well. Craig's List and Recycler.com are both great for hunting down trucks. Like 71swb4x4 said, the less rust the better. Luckily here in So Cal trucks are spared the trauma of what the guys in the Northeast have to deal with.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Hey West, did you see that long bed on Moorpark West of Laurel Cnyn? Real nice but I have been too busy to slow down and see the price.
Oh,and did you see that sweet '69 longhorn over on Whitsett? (JK )

I would follow your grand-dads advice and get something YOU like. The shorties seem to always bring more $.
Personally I think they look lame and are almost useless. Good Hunting. WLH

[Shyguy]

'71 and '72 have disc brakes and normally power steering.

The best truck to buy would be a one with a 350 since the availability of parts to rebuild them is good and the prices are also pretty good compared to a 6 cylinder or big block.

It really depends what you want to use the truck for if you go with a short bed or long bed.

I am a little unusual since I like stepsides best and also I don't have any 350's. I have a '71 lwb stepper with a 454 and a '67 swb stepper with a 6 cylinder. Both of them have the old style truck 4 speeds.

Like stated before try to get one with as little body rust as possible.

Good luck hunting for your truck.

[JCD]

Originally Posted by West_the_GM_Guy

And then, since I live in Southern California, is there a resource to finding a decent truck other than Craigslist or eBay that don't have people asking show car prices?

Fist of all.. Welcome from Burbank.
I scoured craigslist for months trying to find a decent truck that didn't need work or reassembly. Seems most of the trucks listed were projects.

What I did was place my own WANTED AD on Craigslist.
In the first week, I received over a dozen responses.
and I was able to buy my C-20 for only $1,400
Needs a few things, but what I was able to get was a rust free, solid truck.

They are out there, and as they said above.. they go fast at a decent price.
Good Luck.

J.

[Tom Vogel]

[QUOTE=71swb4x4;4290156]A couple notes. If it's a shortbed you want, 1/2 ton is your only option. There were no factory shortbeds other than 1/2 ton.
You are in a great area to find a solid truck. Patience is the key. Keep watching, the nice trucks at low prices probably sell quick, so you need to be checking craigslist daily. www.searchtempest.com is a great way to search all of your local craigslists at once. Don't be afraid to drive a little ways for the right truck.
Pay more money for a solid truck. Don't settle for a rust bucket simply because it's cheap. It will cost more in the long run.

QUOTE]
X-2.... Patience.

[West_the_GM_Guy]

I need to leave the house now and can't reply directly to everything, but the advice here is excellent. I'm especially loving the "patience" line. I do feel like I've been rushing a bit to find something. Which reminds me to ask, how difficult or easy is it to buy a truck from out of state and bring into California? Is it better to just find one here? More later, and thank you all so much. Can't believe so many guys live so close on here. Haven't seen the truck on Moorpark, will actually try to drive down that way today.

[406 Q-ship]

Originally Posted by West_the_GM_Guy

I need to leave the house now and can't reply directly to everything, but the advice here is excellent. I'm especially loving the "patience" line. I do feel like I've been rushing a bit to find something. Which reminds me to ask, how difficult or easy is it to buy a truck from out of state and bring into California? Is it better to just find one here? More later, and thank you all so much. Can't believe so many guys live so close on here. Haven't seen the truck on Moorpark, will actually try to drive down that way today.

I just brought a 67 that came in from Nevada (BTW I found mine at the Long Beach swap meet). To get into Cali isn't too bad, you need a VIN verification, the original certificate of ownership, and the certified weight on the truck. With all that you can go to AAA (my suggestion) or the DMV and then paperwork will take about 15 minutes.

I concurr with all the others on here pay a little more for a nice rust free truck and you will save a ton more than repairing rust on a cheaper truck. Patients young grasshopper.

Places on the truck to look for rust:

Above the drip rail on the roof
Around the base of the windsheild (dash can be rusty from a leaky windshield)
rockers (piece bellow the doors)
rear lower cab corners
Floor of the truck
bottom of the doors
bottom of the front fenders (both in front and rear of the wheel)

[don t. - 72gmc]

"there a resource to finding a decent truck"....Have you checked the trucks for sale on this site?

[PanelDeland]

One piece of advice,don't limit yourself to the GMC,unless you're gonna try to restore it original, the sheetmetal can be changed easily.Look a lil east of you also.Arizona has a great climate for keeping trucks rust free.

[Fitz]

[QUOTE=406 Q-ship;4291436]
I concurr with all the others on here pay a little more for a nice rust free truck and you will save a ton more than repairing rust on a cheaper truck. Patients young grasshopper.

QUOTE]

X3! There are a few rust free trucks out there and unless you're really good with a welder or hammer and dolly your best bet is one that does not need a lot of rust repair. Get a refridgerator magnet and put it in a little cloth bag like the ones some sunglasses come in or just roll it up in a lens cleaning cloth. It will stick to the paint, but just barely on clean sheetmetal. The bag keeps the magnet from scratching the paint and weakens the magnetic field just enough so it falls off if more than a slight skim coat of bondo is under the paint.

Go over the rear cab corners, the base of the A pillar (windshield post) rocker panels below the doors and the bottom of thr doors. I knew a guy who ran a "hot rod restoration " shop in Orlando Fla. Everyone called him the "King of Bondo" because he never banged out a dent, just slathered inches of bondo over it, shot it with paint then sold it fast. When the customer noticed cracks in the paint in a few weeks ol bondo boy pointed to the sign in his shop: "No Warranty" They're out there in the valley, too. I know, I used to live in Woodland Hills.

Good luck in your search.

[JCD]

Originally Posted by 406 Q-ship

To get into Cali isn't too bad, you need a VIN verification, the original certificate of ownership, and the certified weight on the truck.

Unless I am mistaken, you also need a safety certificate..
I brought my El Camino into California and they needed to know the lights , markers, turn signals, and back up lights worked, as well as Brakes, and emergency stop cable.

J.

[West_the_GM_Guy]

71swb4x4 - Thank you for the advice. I especially like the searchtempest.com note. I was using crazedlist.org, but searchtempest is easier. And I did not know that shortbeds are only 1/2 tons. Or maybe I hadn't put 2 and 2 together yet. :-) I will be patient, thank you.

WorkinLonghorn - Do you live on Whitsett? I'm on that street almost every day, and haven't seen the Longhorn. :-)

Shyguy - That's good advice, thank you. I am trying to stick with a smaller engine. Though when the right truck finds me, it probably won't matter.

JCD - I didn't even think of placing a wanted ad, never occurred to me. I will do that. Do you remember what you said? And did you cap it at a certain amount? Nice C-20. Thanks.

406 Q-ship - Places to look for rust, thank you.

don t. - 72gmc - Failed to mention it, but yes, have looked. And will be looking at a GMC tomorrow with my father from that for sale list. :-)

Fitz - I'm hearing you and the others loud and clear - NO RUST! I don't really know the vast importance of it, but it makes alot of sense.

Again, thank you everyone. I'm on the hunt.

[406 Q-ship]

Originally Posted by JCD

Unless I am mistaken, you also need a safety certificate..
I brought my El Camino into California and they needed to know the lights , markers, turn signals, and back up lights worked, as well as Brakes, and emergency stop cable.

J.

I didn't do a light and brake inspection. Was your El Camino registration up to date in the old State when you bought it?

[JCD]

Originally Posted by 406 Q-ship

I didn't do a light and brake inspection. Was your El Camino registration up to date in the old State when you bought it?

Yes, it was brought here from Georgia..
But it was years ago when they still had you pass a Smog test on cars made after 1965... That may have changed when they upped the dates on smog exemptions

I've also been asked to get a safety cert for salvaged titled cars and trucks.

J.