Replacing Complete Brake Lines

[TheWhiteElephant]

Today I discovered a very rusty brake line on the '73 K20 Longbed I've been working on getting back to good driving condition. I'd like to go through the entire brake system and replace everything from the booster/master cylinder down to the shoes/pads and complete lines.

How involved/difficult is replacing the lines in your own driveway (no shop). Body is on frame, I don't have a lift, etc. I am leaning towards a complete set from inline or Right Stuff for the sake of simplicity and would rather do the install myself. Everything else I've done before but haven't tackled the lines yet. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

M

[THE "10" SILVERADO]

I have never done it myself personally but I don't think it would be that hard (technically) when you have a kit in all....I think the hardest thing is just the labor putting it on....Even though you don't have a shop you could always jack it up and put it on jackstands (not the safest thing but I did it swapping the suspension out of my jeeps before and it worked just fine) let me know how it goes because I'm going to have to do the same with mine.....I basically have no brakes...I can only go about 20 wherever I need to go and let off the gas early so the beast stops itself

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by THE "10" SILVERADO

I have never done it myself personally but I don't think it would be that hard (technically) when you have a kit in all....I think the hardest thing is just the labor putting it on....Even though you don't have a shop you could always jack it up and put it on jackstands (not the safest thing but I did it swapping the suspension out of my jeeps before and it worked just fine) let me know how it goes because I'm going to have to do the same with mine.....I basically have no brakes...I can only go about 20 wherever I need to go and let off the gas early so the beast stops itself

haha! Yeah, same here. The truck had brake issues when I bought it. I was planning on going through the brakes first, but then the engine got in the way.

[1BadSS]

Originally Posted by TheWhiteElephant

haha! Yeah, same here. The truck had brake issues when I bought it. I was planning on going through the brakes first, but then the engine got in the way.

Shouldn't be too terrible, if you're doing the full kit. I'd just grind / cut all of the stock lines off. With the exception of removal of the connections to the wheel cylinders, calipers, prop valve.

[russgt]

Its not that hard but takes time, I redid all of the lines on my 76 Blazer. I used a stainless prebent kit from inline tube. It fit pretty decent but you will also need new hoses, most likely new rear wheel cylinders, and maybe a prop valve if the rear brake line fitting wont come off. You will also need all new clips that hold the lines to the frame because they most likely will be rusted out.

[babyJay]

Complete replacement is the way to go if you've got the cash. If you're buying pre-bent lines it should be relatively painless.

[James McClure]

M I did my brake lines with a kit from classic tube (not exactly sure of the name) out of Buffalo NY. The thing that sold me on this kit (it costs about $300) is it is all made of stainless steel. Even the nuts and the anti kink wire wrap. You won't know it wasen't made by GM, it's that good. Most of the lines go right in without a hitch, EXCEPT 1. The one behind the right motor mount is a real pain to get in. Mine was a cab off restore so I'm sure that made it easier. I also switched from DOT3 to DOT5 silicone fluid. Check the classic guys out. The only thing I didn't like was the fact that they bent 1 of the lines to get it into the box, BUT, they mark this bend with a tag and it's easy to straighten out. jim

[JW76]

get a roll of copper nickel line and a decent flaring tool and go to town. its easy to do. the copper nickel flares awesome. i did an entire truck over front and rear in a half day.

[menace121978]

figured i'd throw my 2 cents worth with a quote from Aarons thread...

Originally Posted by menace121978

hey Aaron... just wanted to give you a little tip before you get too far along with those brake lines. stainless steel brake lines are a much harder metal than the regular steel lines. i used ss lines on the front system. THEY ALL LEAKED! the only lines that didn't leak were the factory lines that i re flared myself. once your truck is together it is a *itch to fix them and very frustrating when you buy pre bent lines that are already flared and ready to go and they leak like a sieve.

so here's the tip take them off and heat up the flare with a torch until its red hot and let cool. this softens up the metal just enough that the flare will conform with the union when its screwed together. and you wont have any leaks

i probably will never use pre bent stainless lines again after all the trouble i had but if i do i will be heating those babies up before i install them for sure!

and 1 other thing, i hate to disagree with James but i would not run dot 5. do some research on it. its REALLY HARD to bleed... the only real good thing about it (imo) is it wont bubble up and ruin paint.

[wyattglock]

I ran new lines from the firewall up to and including the rear axle. I also rebuilt the rear drums while I was at it. Total time spent on the lines was 3 hours. That included bleeding the brakes. When I did my brakes, I went ahead and bought one of the power bleeder systems from Motive Products. That was probably the best $50 I spent on my brakes. It allowed me to completely bleed my brakes in about 20 minutes by myself.

[PRattenbury]

I bought rolls of steel tube from NAPA. I used a bender and a flaring tool to make all my own lines. I took the old ones out, laid them on the shop floor and duplicated them, bend for bend. It took a while, but it worked fine.

[Gordonr1973]

Originally Posted by russgt

Its not that hard but takes time, I redid all of the lines on my 76 Blazer. I used a stainless prebent kit from inline tube. It fit pretty decent but you will also need new hoses, most likely new rear wheel cylinders, and maybe a prop valve if the rear brake line fitting wont come off. You will also need all new clips that hold the lines to the frame because they most likely will be rusted out.

Approximately what did that kit cost?

Thanks!

[TheWhiteElephant]

Lots of good advice here, guys. Thanks. Inline will sell a complete kit for approximately $200 after shipping. According to their website, the leaking issues on SS lines is fixed by tightening, then loosening, and repeating this a few times so that the lines/flares can conform to the unions.

Once again, I appreciate all your input.

[motornut]

I had to do my 78 sub and bought a roll,fittings,did it all my self,the proportioning valve was a big issue tho getting the right fitting to the back line.
Important to practice the flairing once you get the hang of it you will save$$

then you can keep the extra for emergencys

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by motornut

I had to do my 78 sub and bought a roll,fittings,did it all my self,the proportioning valve was a big issue tho getting the right fitting to the back line.
Important to practice the flairing once you get the hang of it you will save$$

then you can keep the extra for emergencys

haha! awesome. Right next to the emergency coffee, eh?

[motornut]

Originally Posted by TheWhiteElephant

haha! awesome. Right next to the emergency coffee, eh?

yup for those hard to do flairs lol
is the glass half empty or half full,depends is it my first or second cup lol

[Frozen1010]

Anyone have any tips for puting a double flare on SS lines. I got a complete SS kit, and had to shorten 1 piece, and I cannot get a flare on the end. I have tried two flaring tools, and on both the tube slips in the clamp, so when I crank on it I get nothing. Both tools work fine on the normal steel lines. One tool is a rigid single flare, the other is a double flare tool from AutoZone.

[motornut]

hold up the tool ,empty, do the insides meet flat?
BFH to flatten if it's curling around the line

if not wrap it in tinfoil