how much to pay?...

[stevessierra]

hello all, not new, just a lurker. learned quite a handful thanks to your contributions to the site. so thanks is in order. i have been looking to buy a 60-63 chevy/gmc. gotta love that panoramic windshield : ) ive been doing a bit of research and have really found what i would like to get. so my ultimate query is what should i expect to pay for a truck? i know there are things i need to look for such as where typical rust is found, but i need help with what options are worth more. such as big vs small back window or i6 vs v8. and so on. i would ultimately like to have a chevrolet(double hump dash) 63(ladder frame, but an older frame is ok, as i can beef it up) i prefer the 60-61 grille and hood. like the apache signal openings. the double headlights on each side. but i can change that later on. longbed is a must. need the cargo room for work. my shortwide 84 just isnt enough. im not particular on engine, although a 6 would be neat. but a 283 would be cool for a bit of hot rodding around. dont mind big or small back window, either one is stylin. dont mind a half or three quarter toner. a transfercase(4x4) would be prefered. but if not equipped i wouldnt mind converting later down the road. so im gonna ask you guys what i should look at paying for a truck. say a 61 4x4 3/4 ton small back window, small v8. or maybe a 63 half ton 2wd big back window and a 6. all help is appreciated. thanks in advance.

[DPowers]

Probably be around 50 grand- give or take... J/K
What I would do is do a Craigslist search of within a couple hours drive of where you live. Different areas of the country have different values and prices. What is your budget? What are your skills as to doing modifications?
Sounds like you want the looks of several different trucks rolled into one....
Some listings from East TN.
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2039184511.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/1999390820.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2028783501.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2066563595.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2042301817.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2056293033.html
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2043175557.html

[stevessierra]

thanks for the input. location hadnt really occured to me as far as worth. they range from 650 to 6000+ here in oregon. pending condition. my budget is slim, but i have access to anything i need in the shop i work in. i can fab some basic things and have a general mind/knowledge of minor mechanics. im just curious as to know what options are worth more than others. say would it be a better investment to get an i6 or a v8? is a big back window worth more than small? is a chevy more expensive than a gmc? is the round low pro hood worth more than the apache hood? thats what im asking. thanks again.

[padresag]

there always seems to be trucks for sale in oregon
ron

[63 & 64 Bowties]

I think the best way to figure worth of a truck is to look on eBay. If you have an account search your year range and click on "completed items" (you have to sign in to see these.) Anybody can advertise a truck for sale for any price they want on CL or auto trader, etc but that doesn't mean they'll get anywhere near their asking price. eBay completed items tells you what they are actually selling for. I heard a quote once; "real estate, autos, or pencils are only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, not the asking price."

[duallyjams]

You live in a great area for buying a 60-63 truck. I've seen great deals in the state you live and WA state.If it was not so far away I would have bought at least four trucks from your area.You should have no problem finding what you want.

[jocko]

concur with 63&64 Bowties, ebay is a good way to learn price ranges, then knock a little off for "advertising" - keep in mind some folks on ebay are just suckerfishing, so to speak (i.e. I've seen several trucks listed over and over and over with no price change when it is clear they're asking more than anyone is willing to pay - but like 63&64 bowties said - the seller is hoping that SOMEONE will come along willing to pay that amount. And there's nothing wrong with advertising like that - because maybe it IS worth that price to someone, I just mention so as to be aware of how some selling prices may be inflated, you just gotta be aware of it, that's all - if it's outta your price range, drool at it a little and move on. I drool a lot) - but ebay IS a great way to compare relative values.

In fact, I have this link tagged to my web browser's toolbar - it's a pre-loaded 60-66 C10 search (and it is a "live" link (not sure if that's the right word...), in other words, it's always the most recent listing every time you click it):

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Cars-Tru...0-1966&_lsbx=0

In case you're not familiar with ebay - please note that in the left pane you can narrow or refine your search (for perhaps a C20 - or even narrow it to within XXX miles of your home zip code, etc).

Generally speaking, if 2 trucks are identical except for the back window - the big back window will go for more $. Personally, I like the big back window - but it's absolutely not a show-stopper for me. Some prefer the small window. Bottom line - it depends on what your preference is personally - so if you don't really care, then you've just expanded your candidate pool - so look for both and you never know what you'll find. Same goes for long vs short bed - I tend to find that similar trucks are more expensive if they have a shortbed - but this REALLY comes down to preference. I'm odd in that I used to be a "long bed only" sort of guy. Nowadays, I find I'm a "shortbed only" kinda guy for my "tinkerin truck" and "longbed only" kinda guy for my work truck... Strange, I know, but Iyam what Iyam (Popeye). I think what it really comes down to is that when I was 20 yrs old and could barely afford my driver - I went with a long bed for double duty. But now that I'm a LITTLE older, and can't afford even a driver(!), I have two now of course, one short for toying with, one long for hauling with... But, sounds like you already know what you want when it comes to bed size - so that's good, narrows your search, and since you like a long bed, you may find it helps bring the price down a bit compared to a similarly equipped short bed truck. V8s seem to bring a little more price, but not always. The most important factor in the price (in my mind - i.e. what I'm "willing" to pay) comes down to the condition of the sheet metal. No matter how good you are with a welder, the sheet metal can only be virgin once. BUT! If your goal is to enjoy the bodywork, then you've just carved a major chunk out of your investment and you can probably save a lot of $ by finding a truck that meets (but doesn't exceed) your hammer/dolly/welding abilities. To me, balancing a realistic approach of my own capability with a welder vs. the $ I'm willing to pay up front for the truck when it comes to the state of rot of the truck. But if you've got game when it comes to body work - OR - you're just doing this as a hobby and the fun of learning how to get better and better at it - then you can open up your list of possible trucks even further and buy one that someone looking for a finished truck would skip over. I think you've seen that most the folks on this site are true tinkerers (many are pro's!) and love the work they get to do on a truck, not just love driving it. Sounds like this will be a work/driver longbed for you, so even with good body work skills, you may want to search for something with a decent body so you don't have as much "down" time for bodywork. All depends on what you want to do and want to enjoy about the truck. Personally, I dream of finding a short/wide/big window '63 with a perfect body, intact interior, and NO engine or trans.... AH....

Happy hunting! And when you find something you're not sure about - throw a pic on here and ask what it's worth - you'll get plenty of opinions.
-jocko

[geezer#99]

Here's a quick link to check on the trucks in your neck of the woods.
http://www2.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.c...mit=++++go++++

[oem4me]

Here's my two cents: First, define what you like. Second, decide what you can afford. Third, search the entire country, but try to buy from a dry climate (such as Eastern Oregon). Auto transporters are crawling like ants all over the map, and it's far cheaper in the long run to pay a little more up front for the right truck, than to waste a bunch of your time, effort, and money on the wrong one. Fourth, Be patient. Fifth, act FAST when you see THE truck.
Good luck, and have fun!

[jocko]

oem4me makes a very important point - being "ready" to buy when you find it. Couldn't agree more - if you don't have money ready, you will lose the deal when you're driving to the bank to get the dough. If online shopping, be ready to have the appropriate transfer ready (i.e. paypal acct for a deposit, etc) if you're an onliner. I lost a few really sweet deals bcuz i was slow and wishy washy. I still am, but at least I wasn't for a few minutes when i found the one i currently have. Many banks offer a "ready to go" bank draft that is good up to a pre-defined amount. So for about a year, I had one of those in my pocket (had to renew it every 2 months) and had a paypal acct ready in case I found it online. It finally worked out. Good advice oem4me.

[raycow]

NEVER buy anything without personally inspecting it first. The seller's "almost perfect" could be your "almost hopeless".

Ray

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by raycow

NEVER buy anything without personally inspecting it first. The seller's "almost perfect" could be your "almost hopeless".

Ray

I disagree. Don't get me wrong, I got totally ripped off by some sweet talking mf'er one time, and it hurt bad, but there are ways around that. Try a deposit, with the balance payable upon inspection, and a total refund if it not what they say it is. Or pay somebody local to go look at it for you. Ask for LOTS of specific pictures. And this is the biggie.. my "secret" to buying online: tell them to take pictures of the worst stuff on the truck, the ugliest parts, the stuff they hoped didn't show on the ad photo. Then upon inspection, if you see ANYTHING that was not represented in the photos, the deal is off! Make this clear to the seller.
If he squirms, then back off and move on.

[irish1966]

Dude, shoot me a PM. I am always looking on CL and I can give you a headsup if I find anything in your price range.

[irish1966]

here's one:

http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/2072557856.html

[irish1966]

another option:

http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/cto/2072003260.html

[irish1966]

and another:

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2071864899.html

[irish1966]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2069771893.html

[markeb01]

Here’s my attempt at some realistic guideline numbers. Every value can be argued but generally condition of the sheet metal is more important than any other factor or feature. Big or small, long or short, wide or narrow, V8 or 6 are all secondary to condition. Next is availability in your area and demand or interest. Third is the reality of these are old trucks, or collectible/special interest trucks. They are not 57 Chevy convertibles, no matter how nice and do not benefit from the same volume of enthusiasts driving the prices up. It’s easy to spend $20,000 building a truck that ends up worth half that amount.

Here’s my guess at a range of prices:

For $2,000 the truck should be complete and restorable with nothing worse than typical rust in the usual places. There should be no damage to the roof (including the addition of a sunroof), and no severe rust above the windshield. All major parts should be usable or repairable, although there may be dents in the bodywork or grille. There should be a clear title. The truck may or may not run, or run well. Cost of repairs for severe rust or roof damage can make a truck not worth buying at all.

$3,000 - $5,000 should buy a truck that runs reliably, in better condition than noted above, and perhaps with some extra features or options.

$6,000 – $8,000 the truck should be either incredibly original/exceptional condition, or have upgrades like power steering, disc brakes, new wood, paint, or upholstery already completed.

$10,000 – everything in mint condition and complete. Either a brand new original truck, or something fixed up worthy of magazine coverage. “Everything” new or rebuilt, and wearing perfectly detailed paint, glass, upholstery, wheels, suspension, etc.

$15,000 - $20,000 & above – a 100% restoration, or a high end custom truck with many special features. Lots of chrome, full leather interior, air conditioning, exotic engine, brakes and/or suspension. Very few 60-66 trucks end up in this price range regardless of how much has been spent on them.

[Rich 5150 69]

I`ll have to argue with Mark or I`m getting older ( Leather interior ) although nice to look at, hot in the summer cold in the winter, I prefer cloth..

[markeb01]

I completely agree, never did like the stuff either. Just think in that price range everything in the entire truck should be the most expensive stuff available.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Originally Posted by stevessierra

hello all, not new, just a lurker. learned quite a handful thanks to your contributions to the site. so thanks is in order. i have been looking to buy a 60-63 chevy/gmc. gotta love that panoramic windshield : ) ive been doing a bit of research and have really found what i would like to get. so my ultimate query is what should i expect to pay for a truck? i know there are things i need to look for such as where typical rust is found, but i need help with what options are worth more. such as big vs small back window or i6 vs v8. and so on. i would ultimately like to have a chevrolet(double hump dash) 63(ladder frame, but an older frame is ok, as i can beef it up) i prefer the 60-61 grille and hood. like the apache signal openings. the double headlights on each side. but i can change that later on. longbed is a must. need the cargo room for work. my shortwide 84 just isnt enough. im not particular on engine, although a 6 would be neat. but a 283 would be cool for a bit of hot rodding around. dont mind big or small back window, either one is stylin. dont mind a half or three quarter toner. a transfercase(4x4) would be prefered. but if not equipped i wouldnt mind converting later down the road. so im gonna ask you guys what i should look at paying for a truck. say a 61 4x4 3/4 ton small back window, small v8. or maybe a 63 half ton 2wd big back window and a 6. all help is appreciated. thanks in advance.

1960 Chevy:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1960 GMC:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1961 Chevy:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1961 GMC:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1962 Chevy:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1962 GMC:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1963 Chevy:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

1963 GMC:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1960-...e82668a2ddab14

http://www.streetsideclassics.com/ve...ow=&pricehigh=

[stevessierra]

first of all, thanks to everyone for the advice. i see what everyone is meaning and understand each of your opinions. ive dont plenty of vehicle shopping. i have a general idea of what i should look at and see whats good at not as far as condition. although i would like to know what kinds of things should i be looking for as far as options on these trucks. whats hard to find? whats common and not worth my time dickering around with? i guess i need someone to direct to a 'bible' of sorts. a tell all of everything these trucks ever had, standard features and options. from what i understand these rigs never had vacuum assist brakes. am i correct? and drums all around? and the frame was changed in 63? thats knowledge i need aswell. i guess im a complete new guy, but i wanna change that. so advice on that would be great too. thanks in advance.

[Nix62]

Originally Posted by stevessierra

from what i understand these rigs never had vacuum assist brakes.

My 62 does. Don't know how usual that is though. I wouldn't worry too much about options though, more condition. Rust would be my biggest worry.

[raycow]

I agree completely. Body condition is everything when buying one of these trucks. Don't worry about the engine, transmission or options. Just be on the lookout for rust. All the other stuff is easy to fix.

Ray

[jimmydean]

I paid $1000 for my '66 C20 in Tigard and looked at a number of 63-72's. There was one in Vancouver that was very nice for $900. I'm a cheap bastard, so I was only looking at drivers that were less than $1500.

<edit> Rust and body were my main concerns. That and unmolested, but I would rather start from scratch than fix someone else's issues.