lift kit options??

[jakeblues652]

my trucks got a 3" body lift already and i wanted another 2-4" and i was thinking about shackle reverse. what are your guys opinions on them? could i run them front and rear, or just rear and block the front? or even then, could i block all around? im at a loss here, because i dont know much about the lifts and i dont want to spend 600+ just to get another 3 inches up in the air. any help would be appreciated.

[Ronnny]

If you do blocks you do rear only. Blocks in front are accidents waiting to happen. They loosen and spit out on you. They can do it in the rear but 10 times more likely to in the front. In the rear do a shackle flip. cut a hole in the bottom of the hanger flip the shackle and weld on a little extra support. For the front get a set of stock rear springs and move the front hanger forward the few inches to match the extra length of the spring. If you keep the axle centered where it is at you can get away with a drop steering arm. This gives you about 4" of lift. go to www.coloradok5.com and search and ask a little. Lots of help and write ups on this stuff there. 4" and your drive shaft lengths should still be good but just have to see. The easiest and best is a rough country 4" kit and use a shackle flip in rear instead of the blocks. Look around and you might find a good used set of springs. A lot of people lift trucks then do not like it or then want to go higher. Post ad on craigslist looking for a used kit.

[jakeblues652]

i was crawling under her today..could i move the front spring mount backwards, towards the cab, instead of vice versa?

[WHITE-NOISE]

a basic 3 inch lift with new front springs and rear blocks and shocks is only like $375... i could tell u horror stories of front blocks.....

[jakeblues652]

Originally Posted by WHITE-NOISE

i could tell u horror stories of front blocks.....

i wasnt planning on blocks in the front once i heard they were bad news. i know, its a '67, but its gonna be a D.D, so i want it to be safe. not like they had air bags, or crash tests, or seat belts or anything back in '67, but i want that peace of mind that i dont need to worry when i have someone riding with me that theres the possibility that MY work will break, and them being injured. i want to be on the safe side.

[jakeblues652]

and wheres that lift?? cause that could be in my budget...or wish list. lol

[WHITE-NOISE]

http://www.ntwonline.com/69-72_GM_1_..._P8364C156.cfm
not a bad deal really, rough country lift arnt the best ride in the world but ive never really had any complaints with them in the past.

[jakeblues652]

im not really that concerned about the ride. its a pickup truck, not a cadiliac

[rblcori7]

yes i would agree go with rouch country lift they are from what i hear reliable and good priced

[WHITE-NOISE]

Originally Posted by jakeblues652

im not really that concerned about the ride. its a pickup truck, not a cadiliac

im the same way....i see no point in big name high dollar lift kits...........they all the do the same thing....lift the truck

[Altec]

Honestly, the easiest way to get 4" of lift is doing a 52" conversion in the front using stock rear leaf springs from a 1/2-ton 73-87, and doing a shackle flip in the rear.

Just remember 52" leaf springs in the front are very flexy, so if you ride on the street I suggest slow cornering, or a sway bar.

Pirate 4x4 has a lot of info on both conversions. Some junk yard rear springs for the front, some steel plate/channel, and a mig welder is all you need access to, to do this.

[Transformula]

I'd like to hear a horror story of front lift blocks. I'm not trying to start a war here, since every truck and instance are different, but for the past 8 years I've been daily driving my 71 with 2" lift blocks and 2" lift springs in the front (Total 4" lift, bigger blocks in the rear). I haven't had any problems at all. I also have some caster shims under those for a 3 degree pinion tilt.

[jakeblues652]

Originally Posted by Transformula

I'd like to hear a horror story of front lift blocks. I'm not trying to start a war here, since every truck and instance are different, but for the past 8 years I've been daily driving my 71 with 2" lift blocks and 2" lift springs in the front (Total 4" lift, bigger blocks in the rear). I haven't had any problems at all. I also have some caster shims under those for a 3 degree pinion tilt.

ive never seen it happen, but i've heard the under the right circumstances, the blocks could "spit" out. imagine what that would do while driving.

[Transformula]

I imagine that if the u-bolts loosened a few turns on the nuts, the blocks had no centering pins, I could see that happening. But the blocks usually have pins locking them in place, and if u-bolts are torqued properly, the stretch on them will keep them tight forever. I work for Freightliner Trucks, and most of those trucks even come from the factory with 1", 2", 3" blocks up front!
If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then don't do it! I'm just sayin through my experience...

[special-K]

There is a lot of lateral torsional stress put on the u-joints when steering.This is magnified by wider tires and wheel offset.Then,multiply it more by adding blocks with longer u-bolts of the same diameter and you have a less than favorable situation.I don't know of any horror stories.It just makes better logical sense to lift the truck any one of the more safe ways.

[LONGHAIR]

The issues with the blocks are mostly about "leverage". The blocks move the axle away from the springs which allows a greater force to be applied to the springs. The rotational force of the driveline, the opposite rotational force of the brakes, and the side force of steering are all factors in this. Every force against the springs is amplified as well as against the blocks/u-bolts themselves. It's just not safe.

There is also the issue of "angled blocks", because that is how the overwhelming majority of them are made. Angled blocks are bad enough on the rear axle.....but they are far worse on the front. Angling the pinion up-ward, which is what everyone woud do, just kills your caster setting. The truck would wander all over the road at best...and "dart" uncontrollably at worst.

In answer to the original question. There is always the "add-a-leaf" style kit. They are a single leaf that is added to the original spring packs. They generally lift about 2"-2.5" and are very cheap compared to "full spring" kits.

[Ronnny]

I bought a 79 k10 with lift blocks all the way around. A month late i swapped out all the springs. 3 of the 4 blocks were cracked. It does matter how you wheel your truck. A friend of mine was driving his sons truck with 4" blocks in the rear when the block split axle turned crooked and springs half way came loose under his truck. If you play hard in your truck with blocks just check your u bolts every time you change the oil. In most states it is illegal to run blocks in the front for a lift. Not that anyone checks. Put a add a leaf or go to a yard and find some springs for the front. If you do blocks in the front you will have a good chance of getting on a funny picture thread of stupid things done. With a little time you can loo and find springs pretty cheap or like said do a add a leaf for a bad ride. Measure and go to the pick a part yard and find a scout or such rear springs that are close enough to work if you want to go cheap. Just do this and your steering safe. Others on the road depend on it.

[Ronnny]

Originally Posted by jakeblues652

i was crawling under her today..could i move the front spring mount backwards, towards the cab, instead of vice versa?

If you move the rear shackles backward to do a 52" spring change then you run into crossmemeber and drive shaft issues. You also mess up steering geometry also. If you do 52" conversion then you usually have to do a cross over steering also or not long after because when you get twisted you loose steering in one direction because of the way the axle is pushed.