mods req'd .for gas tank reloc.??

[67pro-street]

i got a gas tank and straps out of a 72 burban and am planning on puttiing the tank on my 67 chevy longbed fleetside. i was just wondering what kind of mods i would have to make to do this switch. any help would be great.

[JHickson6]

I copied this off of GMC Pauls website, i think the only modification you would have to make is removing the spare tire crossmemeber (small one, two rivets) and then drilling holes for the straps. Of course the filler would have to be custom made for your application.

21 Gallon Poly Tank Kit

- 21 gallon poly tank kit, installs under bed of trucks, Blazer, Jimmy, Suburban, Panel. Includes polyethylene tank, straps, and fuel sending unit with lock ring. Excellent tank for getting your tank out of cab and under the bed. 12 3/4"Deep, 17" front to back, 26" side to side. Requires minor modification to install in LWB & SWB trucks._ $229.95

My question is did any Burbs or Blazers come factory with the poly tanks?
Thanks
Jared

[GMCPaul]

the steel tank requires the same mods as a poly except for in regards to the fuel fill outlet placement, on the poly tank you take a heat gun and heat around the fuel fill neck and after properly heated you can reposition its direction from straight the side to its going forward or backward in angle out side of tank depending upon where you want to fill it, on the metal tank you would need a muffler shop to bend a curve in neck so that it is at a forward or backward angle out the side of the tank if the straight out the side method is unacceptable for the filler method you desire. We are speaking with a tank manufacturer currently on slightly modifying the current original style of the tank to take into account the bed crossmember on the trucks and having a depressed area built into the top of the tank so that there won't be a need to notch the crossmember, at the same time we are designing it so that the fuel filler neck will be 1 1/2" instead of 1 1/4" with filler moved to far rear corner on drivers side of tank, this way it will be more adaptable to current fuel filler methods desired and the price of 1 1/2" fuel filler hose is 1/2 the price of the 1 1/4". We are also working with them on putting together a fuel filler door assembly with filler neck and vent lines for the bed side with the hoses included, and of course the straps, sender and hardware, or same kit except without the filler door and with a marine style filler.
Currently both manufacturers doing the poly and steel kits supply us with only tank, sender, lock ring , o-ring, straps and j-bolts for one side of the straps, we feel it would be easier & more complete to have the other pieces in it.
Currently this is just in the first intial design & developement stage but both ourselves and the manufacturers involved feel we can rapidly bring it to market and hope to do so within about a year.
GMCPaul
Oh yeah in case you didn't know the poly tank mods needed they are, notch 1" upward into bed cross-sill 2nd from rear on bed for entire width between framerails and remove this material, remove the bottom bar 1" wide installed to keep the front edge of the underbed spare from rotating upwards, bend straps to conform to tank shape, hold in place under frame, run new fuel supply lines to fuel pump, run fuel vapor vent lines, mark strap holes for j-bolts on passenger side, drill and install, hold straps up on drivers side mark for bolts drill and install, extend the fuel sender wire ( we prefer using the Blazer/Jimmy fuel harness on LWB by routing the current truck sender wire to rear of cab along its normal path then cutting it at its end changing the connector end to a female slip on connector the opposite design of the male used to plug in fuse box connector, then we drill a 1/2" hole in floor and stick the Blazer fuel sender wire end up that has the dash connector end on it plugging it into our original modified harness insert grommet on Blazer fuel sender wire into 1/2" hole drilled to seal hole route wire down drivers frame using existing wire clips across rear crossmember you notched and down to fuel sender this provides for a extremely clean installation, on SWB trucks you can do the same but instead you only need the Blazer harness and route it out at the firewall and down frame ) before starting have decided on fuel filler method desired and preform any mods to tank filler neck in advance, and now your ready to begin installation of filler you method you desire to use.
Well I believe that covers it all.
GMCPaul

[beau396]

I'm in the process of putting in a suburban tank in my'67 short box fleet. I had to take out the small bar for the spare tire. cut out 1-1/2" of the bed support brace, drill holes for the rear j-bolt and strap bolt. And I chose to bend the fuel outlet to a 90 degreeangle instead of the stock 45 degrees because it looks like it will not clear the bottom of the wood bed. Also the breather tube for the filler neck sits right inside/underneath the bed support brace so I will probably have to cut an exit hole for that as well. Still in the process of figuring it all out, will probably put the fill neck behind the left tail light. No markers on the '67 to use instead.

[PanelDeland]

You might want to run a search on filler necks.I know we have discussed this tons of times.I posted a street rod filler a while back where a section of the bed floor lifted up to access the filler but I CRSed the link.

[pat]

What do you all use for fuel lines?

[Dreaminator]

Have you gone under your truck with a tape measure and calculated how low the bottom of the blazer tank will be? If you drop the rear more than four inches you may wish you had a wider and less deep custom tank welded up.

[67pro-street]

thanks for all the help guys. dreaminator, i never thought of clearnace issues. i will go out and measure the stuff when the weather gets better.

thanks

[PanelDeland]

I think you can use the 'Burb fuel lines without modifying them.
I haven't tried it but it should be perfect and factory or repro should be available.

[Timbo]

I am about to do this mod too. What year suburban tanks will fit?
Thanks, Tim

[Jake1971]

Excellent information, GMCPaul. Two Thumbs up.

Originally Posted by GMCPaul

the steel tank requires the same mods as a poly except for in regards to the fuel fill outlet placement, on the poly tank you take a heat gun and heat around the fuel fill neck and after properly heated you can reposition its direction from straight the side to its going forward or backward in angle out side of tank depending upon where you want to fill it, on the metal tank you would need a muffler shop to bend a curve in neck so that it is at a forward or backward angle out the side of the tank if the straight out the side method is unacceptable for the filler method you desire. We are speaking with a tank manufacturer currently on slightly modifying the current original style of the tank to take into account the bed crossmember on the trucks and having a depressed area built into the top of the tank so that there won't be a need to notch the crossmember, at the same time we are designing it so that the fuel filler neck will be 1 1/2" instead of 1 1/4" with filler moved to far rear corner on drivers side of tank, this way it will be more adaptable to current fuel filler methods desired and the price of 1 1/2" fuel filler hose is 1/2 the price of the 1 1/4". We are also working with them on putting together a fuel filler door assembly with filler neck and vent lines for the bed side with the hoses included, and of course the straps, sender and hardware, or same kit except without the filler door and with a marine style filler.
Currently both manufacturers doing the poly and steel kits supply us with only tank, sender, lock ring , o-ring, straps and j-bolts for one side of the straps, we feel it would be easier & more complete to have the other pieces in it.
Currently this is just in the first intial design & developement stage but both ourselves and the manufacturers involved feel we can rapidly bring it to market and hope to do so within about a year.
GMCPaul
Oh yeah in case you didn't know the poly tank mods needed they are, notch 1" upward into bed cross-sill 2nd from rear on bed for entire width between framerails and remove this material, remove the bottom bar 1" wide installed to keep the front edge of the underbed spare from rotating upwards, bend straps to conform to tank shape, hold in place under frame, run new fuel supply lines to fuel pump, run fuel vapor vent lines, mark strap holes for j-bolts on passenger side, drill and install, hold straps up on drivers side mark for bolts drill and install, extend the fuel sender wire ( we prefer using the Blazer/Jimmy fuel harness on LWB by routing the current truck sender wire to rear of cab along its normal path then cutting it at its end changing the connector end to a female slip on connector the opposite design of the male used to plug in fuse box connector, then we drill a 1/2" hole in floor and stick the Blazer fuel sender wire end up that has the dash connector end on it plugging it into our original modified harness insert grommet on Blazer fuel sender wire into 1/2" hole drilled to seal hole route wire down drivers frame using existing wire clips across rear crossmember you notched and down to fuel sender this provides for a extremely clean installation, on SWB trucks you can do the same but instead you only need the Blazer harness and route it out at the firewall and down frame ) before starting have decided on fuel filler method desired and preform any mods to tank filler neck in advance, and now your ready to begin installation of filler you method you desire to use.
Well I believe that covers it all.
GMCPaul