small block valve adjustment - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mdg · 03-10-2003, 03:20 PM

I have never done a valve adjustment on a small block chevy. All previous engines have been Olds and Buick. I removed the heads on my Chevy and need to know a easy way to adjust them from scratch. I have an old Chiltons manual, but the instructions are a little confusing. Can you guys help me out?

Thanks in advance...MDG

JimKshortstep4x4 · 03-10-2003, 08:03 PM

This is how we do it:

Adjust most of the clearance out before starting the engine.
You will have to turn the engine over to know if the valve is closed or not. Go through all of the valves and recheck them for some looseness as the lifters will pump up and remove the clearance, usually after the engine is running.

Start the engine and adjust the rockers with the engine at an idle.
Do one side at a time. Because of the oil squirting we use a cut out valve cover and oil deflector tabs on the head we are working on. Be sure and put a valve cover on the head that you are not working on.

We set the valves with the engine warmed up. Depending on where they are adjusted after you get the engine started we adjust any loose ones first. Tighten the rocker nut until the clicking stops and then go an aditional 1/4 turn.

On the tight ones loosen the adjustment nut until the valve clicks and then adjust as per above. Sometimes you have to go through and readjust if you still have some clicking. Be sure to check every valve for adjustment.

Oil deflector tabs are available from NAPA if you don't have any.

Jim

RACING29 · 03-10-2003, 08:55 PM

We used to do it the way JIM was talking about, but know we do it without it running? What I do is close intake-open exhaust tighten the intake while twisting the pushrod, when you start to feel it start to tighten up turn it 1/4 turn then tighten. After that do the same with exhaust, exhaust closed-intake open-feel tension in pushrod-1/4 turn tighten. Hope this helps!!!

mikep · 03-10-2003, 09:03 PM

I do it while the engine is not running as well. Doing it while its running gets oil all over the place even if you use those little clips and if your'e like me you can barely hear the tick over the rumble of the exhaust. The oil stains headers and so on. Its also a lot less hectic. Does the same thing. Theres a good write up on the compcams website for getting it to the heel of the cam before adjustment. Takes a little longer but makes the valve adjustment more accurate. I find myself thinking about valve adjustment more now that I run a solid lifter cam.

Xzavior240 · 03-10-2003, 10:46 PM

well Ive tried it both ways with the engine on and with it off. if the exhaust is too loud stand more towards the front of the truck so it puts more of the truck between you and the pipes. just dont go and stick your elbow in the fan blade that would put a serious end to the day. the best way Ive found is with it running because its not always easy to get the valve at exactly closed unless you can see it which means taking a bunch apart. at least for me it does I suck at the top dead center thing. either way to try just dont over tighten them. more stress wears stuff out quicker.

Chip327 · 03-11-2003, 03:10 AM

If you can pick up a Haynes Repair Manual. Its not as descriptive with some things as Chilton is but man it is a great book for all the smaller stuff including setting valves. Did my first motor rebuild just from following instructions in the Haynes Manual.

I adjust mine with truck off - same thing not as messy

Here what I follow:

1. Bring number one piston to top dead centre
2. Tighten rocker arm nuts (number one cylinder only) until all play is removed at the pushrods. Rotate between fingers until slight drag is felt ( or until doesnt fell like it is moving up and down at all anymore )
3. Tighten each nut an additional 3/4 turn to centre the lifters.
4. Adjustment for #1 is now complete , continue with each cylinder ( top dead centre ) until complete.
5. If in doubt , definitly go less than more , like said earlier dont over tighten.

I dont know , this works for me and truck runs like a dream for a long time now

sgtjed · 03-11-2003, 05:19 AM

i do mine with it on,i find it easier than having to remember if i did the last one or not.

mdg · 03-19-2003, 11:05 PM

Thanks for all the info guys, it is greatly appreciated.

MDG

03-10-2003, 08:55 PM	#3
RACING29 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Tennessee, Morristown Posts: 355	We used to do it the way JIM was talking about, but know we do it without it running? What I do is close intake-open exhaust tighten the intake while twisting the pushrod, when you start to feel it start to tighten up turn it 1/4 turn then tighten. After that do the same with exhaust, exhaust closed-intake open-feel tension in pushrod-1/4 turn tighten. Hope this helps!!! __________________ 1967 Chevy truck, R1 racing seats, 4 point racing harness, 4/6 drop, primered blue, soon to be shaved, 350- 060. over, flat top pistons, Eagle rods, Edelbrock Aluminum heads, 1.5 Scorpion roller rockers, Lunati 515" cam, mallory ignition, Holley 750 double pumper carb, Built 350 turbo trans, 2500-2800 boss hog stall, 20 gallon aluminum fuel cell!!!

03-10-2003, 09:03 PM	#4
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	I do it while the engine is not running as well. Doing it while its running gets oil all over the place even if you use those little clips and if your'e like me you can barely hear the tick over the rumble of the exhaust. The oil stains headers and so on. Its also a lot less hectic. Does the same thing. Theres a good write up on the compcams website for getting it to the heel of the cam before adjustment. Takes a little longer but makes the valve adjustment more accurate. I find myself thinking about valve adjustment more now that I run a solid lifter cam. __________________ No truck :-(

03-10-2003, 10:46 PM	#5
Xzavior240 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: enterprise kansas Posts: 230	well Ive tried it both ways with the engine on and with it off. if the exhaust is too loud stand more towards the front of the truck so it puts more of the truck between you and the pipes. just dont go and stick your elbow in the fan blade that would put a serious end to the day. the best way Ive found is with it running because its not always easy to get the valve at exactly closed unless you can see it which means taking a bunch apart. at least for me it does I suck at the top dead center thing. either way to try just dont over tighten them. more stress wears stuff out quicker. __________________ 71 chevy C10 LWB 2WD runs and everything 79 chevy 1/2 ton Big Ten silverado gonna part it out since it left me walking. 69 f100 real good shape with lots of go go juice 89 plymouth reliant (daily driver) 86 thunderbird sitting in the weeds almost covered (anyone need parts?) WWW.xschunkofthenet.freeservers.com nothing there I promise " tell me I'm a sinner I got news for you. I spoke to god this morning and he dont like you" OZZY

03-11-2003, 03:10 AM	#6
Chip327 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada Posts: 45	If you can pick up a Haynes Repair Manual. Its not as descriptive with some things as Chilton is but man it is a great book for all the smaller stuff including setting valves. Did my first motor rebuild just from following instructions in the Haynes Manual. I adjust mine with truck off - same thing not as messy Here what I follow: 1. Bring number one piston to top dead centre 2. Tighten rocker arm nuts (number one cylinder only) until all play is removed at the pushrods. Rotate between fingers until slight drag is felt ( or until doesnt fell like it is moving up and down at all anymore ) 3. Tighten each nut an additional 3/4 turn to centre the lifters. 4. Adjustment for #1 is now complete , continue with each cylinder ( top dead centre ) until complete. 5. If in doubt , definitly go less than more , like said earlier dont over tighten. I dont know , this works for me and truck runs like a dream for a long time now __________________ CHIP327 67 GMC Pickup

03-11-2003, 05:19 AM	#7
sgtjed What if? Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Choctaw,Oklahoma Posts: 649	i do mine with it on,i find it easier than having to remember if i did the last one or not. __________________ 2002 red extended cab Silverado 2002 Wheatland yellow Suburban

03-10-2003, 03:20 PM	#1
mdg Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Apple Valley, California Posts: 26	small block valve adjustment I have never done a valve adjustment on a small block chevy. All previous engines have been Olds and Buick. I removed the heads on my Chevy and need to know a easy way to adjust them from scratch. I have an old Chiltons manual, but the instructions are a little confusing. Can you guys help me out? Thanks in advance...MDG

03-10-2003, 08:03 PM	#2
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	This is how we do it: Adjust most of the clearance out before starting the engine. You will have to turn the engine over to know if the valve is closed or not. Go through all of the valves and recheck them for some looseness as the lifters will pump up and remove the clearance, usually after the engine is running. Start the engine and adjust the rockers with the engine at an idle. Do one side at a time. Because of the oil squirting we use a cut out valve cover and oil deflector tabs on the head we are working on. Be sure and put a valve cover on the head that you are not working on. We set the valves with the engine warmed up. Depending on where they are adjusted after you get the engine started we adjust any loose ones first. Tighten the rocker nut until the clicking stops and then go an aditional 1/4 turn. On the tight ones loosen the adjustment nut until the valve clicks and then adjust as per above. Sometimes you have to go through and readjust if you still have some clicking. Be sure to check every valve for adjustment. Oil deflector tabs are available from NAPA if you don't have any. Jim

03-19-2003, 11:05 PM	#8
mdg Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Apple Valley, California Posts: 26	Thanks for all the info guys, it is greatly appreciated. MDG



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