Rookie builder looking for a mentor......

[funkytechmonkey]

Hello to all of you guys. I have to admit I am crazy addicted to this forum and love seeing all of these builds you guys have done. I am posting to introduce myself and to ask you guys for some help for this noob. I know my relationship with all of you in the 67-72 forums will grow tremendously here in the next few month. I have been learking around the forums long enough to see that most of your guys love to help each other and really enjoy being a part of others builds. I love it! and hope to contribute in the future. As for now.... I do not know a thing about rebuilding a truck and I have never even attempted to restore anything. With that being said..... I would love for you guys to help me start my project and get me underway.

My name is Brian, 30 years old and I live in Lawrenceville, GA (around Atlanta). I have started doing my homework and I know I would like to rebuild a SWB 69 C-10. I am really going to take my time with it and do a frame off restoration. I love horsepower and I love the lower hot rod look. I have been out looking at a few trucks on craigslist around here but they all are pretty rusted up. I have a purchasing budget set to $1500. I could move that up to $2000 if needed. Now here are the questions..... Some of these questions may be a little too general for you veterans. But any info you can throw at me I will absorb it.

With a purchasing budget of $1500 what should I be looking for in a truck?

How much rust is too much rust? Some of you guys make these rust repairs look so easy.

There is a local truck with motor and tranny for $500 but the body is in pretty bad shape and no idea if the motor even runs. (Remember I am all alone in these purchases and I know photos could help you guys)

BTW.... What is going on with my Falcons... Greenbay is killing them!!!

[Gene]

I would say, look for a truck with no rust around the top of the cab. Lower replacement panels are very affordable and easy to find. My truck had all 4 cab supports rusted out and cab corners and rockers were gone. Try to find a truck with a good floor with minimal rust. I gave 1500 bucks for my truck, and have spent 10,000 on my frame off. But it can be done cheaper, it's really up to you how far you want to go. Oh and dont give up, there's still plenty of the old shortwides to be saved! GOOD LUCK!

[ChevLoRay]

Absolutely get the best body you can find. These trucks can have rust around the top of the cab (there's three layers of metal at that point); the cab corners are no biggee, but rockers are usually bad. Floor pans will rust, because the bottoms of the kick panels will have dirt and leaves in them that create rust-out where the vents on those kick panels are. It is a rare sight to find a cab in most areas that doesn't have some rust in those kick panels. The cab supports (mount the cab to the chassis) are known to rust. My truck had a privious owner who used a lot of non-automotive silicone sealer that caused rust to form whereever it was used. My wiper motor fell out of the cowl, for example.

For the most part, however, there's very little sheet metal that isn't reproduced for these trucks.

[BentHeadBolt]

I am no mentor just an old hot rodder that has owned some 30 plus hot rods starting from about 1962 to the present. Here some advice.

1. Get what you think is a cool truck that is not all rusted and dented up and runs good. You can restore the little issues as you drive it which will still be a whole lot of work. Plan on spending at least $3000 to $5000 or more. You'll get what you pay for. Also, don't forget that the day will come when you wish to sell it.

2. "Frame off" builds are extremely costly unless you do it yourself. Even then they are not cheap. Do you have the tools, equipment, facility, time (in terms of years), know how and tons of money to throw at it?

3 Body work is called "Work" because that's just what it is, a whole hell of a lot of work. Get the best body you can find or be prepared to spend 2 to 10 grand (or more) on paint and restoration costs even if you do it yourself.

4. Make absolutely sure you enjoy the truck and you do not turn it into a work whore. Drive it to weekend cruise ins, enter it into car shows, sit on the tail gate and enjoy a beer with your main squeeze etc.etc. All work and no play is NOT fun and makes for a "dull boy".

5. What other folks are driving doesn't matter as long as you are proud and happy with what YOU are driving. Being cool is not relative to how much cash you throw at it. Really it is not regardless of what Hot Rod, Street Rodder, Rod and Custom and various car TV shows would have you believe! Being cool is none of that! It is just a place in time, good friends and the peace of mind knowing your rod is YOUR thing (and not some other persons idea of cool).

6. In about 30 years when your "nades" shrink up you will understand what I am telling you was good advice that you never followed.

Later
BentHeadBolt

[PanelDeland]

WELCOME!!!!

^ He hit the nail on the head!^

When you're looking,it doesn't matter what year truck,the front sheetmetal is easier to change than repairing rust.Long wheelbase frames can be cut down(if you're a good welder),mechanicals on these trucks are so easy

YouTube - 2006 - Geico commercial -...

GM also had the good sense to make almost everything interchangeable.Get a LMC catalog for the pics(BB vendors carry the same or better parts at better prices in most instances and have great customer support.Good luck with your search.BTW Have you checked the Board for a project.There's a classifieds section.

[special-K]

Like Bent Head Bolt said...all the advise you need. Pay up for a good body or plan on having a project,then maybe a truck later.Deland and the rest all gave great advise,too. The 67-72s are virtually interchangeable and many items are interchangeable from other year trucks as well as cars. That's what Chevy has over all other makes. Chevy were the working man's car.

[bigsnookmaster]

Buy the nicest, rust free piece you can to start! It will be money saved in the end!

[rob32472]

Just from my experience...... if you are going to build a solid truck the most important piece is the cab and doors..... aftermarket shortbeds and front sheet metal are pretty good..... I would look for a 71-72 five lug setup with the best cab i could find and would not worry too much about the rest if you are doing a frame off....... It depends on what you want your end result to be...... set down do a realistic budget for your build and add 50% goodluck!

[dznucks]

Are you looking for a running truck or are you considering something thats been sitting awhile.

I know of a few sitting in the smyrna marietta area. I also know where a burb is parked, not sure if its for sale though.

Be patient and you'll find a good one.

welcome to the board.

[bcutt]

You could buy this for the cab, doors and front end sheet metal. I'm sure you can find a SWB frame for not too much. If this thing really has little rust it is worth the $$$, believe me I probably have close to 1000 hours repairing the rusted out cab on my original 72 GA truck. I put in the work because the truck was free and I like a challenge. But if your not willing to devote some serious time and or money start by finding yourself as close to a rust free cab as possible.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/2130086623.html

[chevy88]

Originally Posted by bigsnookmaster

Buy the nicest, rust free piece you can to start! It will be money saved in the end!

I agree rust creates at lot of work, and money to fix. Taking your time and finding a fairly rust free truck will pay off in the long run. I find something that needs more mechanical work is easier to handle than more body work, but that is just me. Good luck with your build and I am sure everybody here will chip in and become your mentor.

[treveiger]

Maybe look for a truck that was started and never finished as in like a roller with no motor or trans but the body work is pretty much done? Ive seen a few on craigslist but it was way to far for me to go get them and i needed something that wouldnt take me forever to get it going. Or even look for a truck that has a great body with no motor or trans, that might be even better because then you dont have a lot of body work and the motor and trans you want to put in you can without feeling like the old motor and tranny is still good. Or you can buy a swb frame then look for a decent cab then fenders, doors, and things like that so you can pick what you want and then kinda have a little more control on the shape there in and have a little more fun shopping if you like that.

[derekb]

I was one of the mechanically challenged desk jockeys that has not turned a wrench in 30 some years. My first vehicle was a 72 LWB which I bought when I was 16 yrs old some 32 years ago. I have been through a good 10-12 cars/trucks since then but have always had interest in picking up another 72. Lo and behold after looking year after year, a 72 SWB in decent shape showed up on Craigslist close to home. Pulled the trigger last January and in one year I have reignited the spark that I had many years ago sitting in (yes in) the engine compartment of my 72 wrenching. I still am somewhat mechanically challenged but when I hit a road block, I go high tech and reach out to my fellow members for advice. And 95% of the time, I can work through the issue. Be proud of whatever you buy and as long as your blood, sweat and tears go into rebuilding it, It will be a success. Thanks to all that have helped and to all that will help.

PS. my wife hates that I come home in black slacks and white shirt from work, and go right to the garage to wrench. Not good on the cleaning bill!!

[funkytechmonkey]

Thank you guy very much for this info. This is some good info. I am learning more and more every day. This weekend I have taken the time to go around and check out some really good trucks and some REALLY bad ones. I did find one today that I am really interested in. So your imput is welcome.

Ive had my heart set on a 67-69, really a 69, but all of the older models I am looking at are completly distroyed by rust. Today I stepped out of my box and I looked at a 71 GMC. There was some rust but not near as much as the older models. The truck ran ok after a few tries of turning the key and pumping the gas. There was a strong exaust smell from a leak around the headers. but other than that the engine sounded great. The rocker panels have already been replaced, the cross bars under the cab were eatn thru by rust and the drivers door was rusted pretty bad at the bottom. Everything is original on the truck as far as body parts and motor and tranny. He was asking $1600 for it.

Is there any benifit to having the leaf springs vs the coil springs on the older models?

The 71 does have the disc breaks so that is good.

Thanks again guys.

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by bigsnookmaster

Buy the nicest, rust free piece you can to start! It will be money saved in the end!

X2! Just be patient and you will come across a good deal especially in this economy.

[treveiger]

I love my coil springs with the auxilery overload leaf springs i think is what there called, the truck rides on the springs until you put a good load on it then it rides on the leafs. very smooth ride if you ask me but i love the way old trucks ride and newer 3/4tons because of there stiffness.
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[chopnchaneled]

Hi Brian... I too am new here and learning everyday. You are right about
there being a lot of great folks here and they are willing to help.

I'm in Buford and have a 68 stepside i've been working on about a year.
I bought mine with the intent of driving it and doing a little along the way.

Don't know of any trucks available at this point but like what was said before
there around, you just have to be patient. If your ever around friendship rd and I 985 i'm in friendship ind. park, pm me and i'll give you directions.

Also, when you find that special truck or while your looking there is a monthly
swap meet at lanier speedway and you never know whats going to be there
for sale. I think it starts in march.

[funkytechmonkey]

Thats awesome... I live right down the road from you. I am around the Gwinnett Braves Stadium. I go up to Friendship all the time. I bought my Harley at Fraizers.

BTW... I have an announcement to make.....

I BOUGHT A C10 TODAY!!!
I got a 1971 GMC C10 with a factory 350 that runs great. Paid $1500 for it. I thnk I am going to call it.. "Project Funky Monkey"

[k7elh]

Congrats!! Nice ride...

[tdave00]

Looks like you made a good purchase. Congrats.

[Zeke's Garage]

Great find for $1500.. excellent start!

If you want to come over to Kennesaw and get your hands dirty give me a call. Between my buddy and I we've got 3 trucks in various stages of rebuild/modification and despair.

We don't know everything, but we have fun with what we've got.

Shawn

[funkytechmonkey]

It's good to know I have some fellow C10-ers that are local. I will defiantly have to come out and meet you guys.

Now that I have my truck I have no idea where to even start. Should I start on the motor? Beefing it up and getting it perfect. Or should I start on breaking it down to do the frame off restoration and then start working on the motor after it's time to slap her back together. This is my first project so I am going to start a checklist and a breakdown of what all I need to do.

Does anyone else here have a checklist they created? I'd love to see a written worklog someone created before their project. I've looked thru the project forums buy it looks like those are just progress pics.
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[Shyguy]

People approach working on these trucks in different ways, but for me I have found that making it road worthy and driving it for a while gathering parts works out best for me.

It would be great to see a check-list if someone has one.

Enjoy your truck and enjoy the build.

['70_402]

looks like you got a steal of a deal for that money!!! GREAT start..

[RocketKing]

Great looking truck! Congrats!