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Old 01-19-2011, 12:11 PM   #1
sam1el
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I hate to beat a dead horse but.

I am doing a 6-lug front disc conversion. I have spent the past 3 weeks on this board reading every post I can find and while they all have great info a lot of it conflicts. SO here is what I have and here is what I have gathered. I have all but the front crossmember from a 77 2wd blazer. Spindles rotors calipers upper and lower a-arm tie rods all steering linkage. I have a 67 chevy c10 with original 6-lug everything a very nice set of aluminum 6-lug rims.

Now from what I have read and been told I should be able to swap the spindles and ball joints to the larger 73-87 ones and still use my stock tie rods, linkage and whatnot and then just bolt on the rotors from cpp with the 73-87 spindles and calipers I have and then just change the brake lines and i'm good. Now this sounds all fine and dandy but I also read on here i have to change things on the tie rods and then on another post it says I don't and then I read that I have to change the lower a-arms. so i will break it down to a list and if someone could help me fill in the blanks that would be awesome.

Currently
67 c10 short step
67 master cylinder
67 upper and lower a-arms
67 upper and lower ball joints
67 drums 6-lug


Waiting to install
77 spindles
77 calipers


other parts I have
77 upper and lower a-arms
77 upper and lower Ball joints
77 tie rods and all steering linkage.


Again it was explained in multiple places here and in person that I could just put the 73-87 ball joints in my stock a-arms and bolt on the 77 spindles and 77 calipers along with rotors from cpp and be done. If this is incorrect please tell me what I'm missing because after reading about 250+ posts i am left more confused than when I started.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:17 PM   #2
Tx Firefighter
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

You're mostly on the right track.

You can install the later ball joints into your existing control arms. Then, install your CPP rotors onto the 77 spindles with the 77 calipers. You'll use the factory 77 bearings and seals for the CPP rotors.

But, you must run the later tie rod ends too. Your existing drum brake tie rod ends will not fit the 77 spindles. But, no worries. You have the 77 model steering linkage so install it all from side to side. Your existing Pitman arm on the steering box will work with the 77 center link. Just bolt it all on.

Now, do the brake lines, prop valve, and master cylinder off the later truck and you're done. If you still have access to the donor 77, all of the brake lines, prop valve, hose, etc will work on your truck. That's the easiest way and can be done in a few hours.

I and lots of other guys on here have done this swap. Don't worry about the folks who says different than what I said above. Look to Scoti and Lolife and other experienced members for guidance too. Those guys have done this stuff and will confirm what I've written. When someone offers an answer for your questions, make sure they're speaking from experience and not what they've read somewhere. There's getting to be a lot of bunk answers given on this board by folks who have never personally dealt with the issues at hand.
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Last edited by Tx Firefighter; 01-19-2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #3
sam1el
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Thanks so much that's exactly what I was wanting hear. Unfortunately I do not have the donor truck so i will need to but the other parts so far I have spent $0.00 as the parts were donated to me by a friend so i won't be out too much on the master cylinder on prop and lines. Definitely appreciate you clarifying it the way you did.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:38 PM   #4
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

when i started to research for this swap lolife99 gave me some great info but for me felt it would be less down time if i just got the whole front suspension/cradle and worked on it according to time & money, at this point its almost degreased & and trying to fiqure out how to remove & install the A arm bushings then paint.
will u be removing the A arm bushings yourself if so the secound thread has some bad info from me lol and some great info & tips from others good luck

from lolife99
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=435370

my thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439872

tourque arm specs
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=441155
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:47 PM   #5
sam1el
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Don't plan to remove the a-arms and I have a buddy who is going to press the ball joints in for me. Hopefully it is all I need. I have the spindles and rotors prepped and painted and about to do the same to all the rest of the linkage and tie rods and make it pretty
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:11 PM   #6
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

OMG... am I the only one that snarfed his Cheerios on that thread title?

No seriously the battery of expired equestrian posteriors is unfortunate and I am strictly opposed to the act as well....


As far as the steering linkage goes Tx Firefighter is right on the money.

Last edited by screamin_c10; 01-19-2011 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:16 PM   #7
lolife99
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam1el View Post
Again it was explained in multiple places here and in person that I could just put the 73-87 ball joints in my stock a-arms and bolt on the 77 spindles and 77 calipers along with rotors from cpp and be done. If this is incorrect please tell me what I'm missing because after reading about 250+ posts i am left more confused than when I started.
You are correct.
But you will need to use all the steering linkage also,... just as TxFirefighter has stated.
(he has also done these swaps and knows what he is talking about)

I recommend ECE for the 6-lug rotors!
Top notch service!!!
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Convert to disc brakes.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

Last edited by lolife99; 01-19-2011 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:42 PM   #8
sam1el
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Is there any reason to go with ece over cpp? 50 bucks doesn't seem like that much of a difference to my budget but what about parts quality?
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:52 PM   #9
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Ece is a great bunch of guys to work with, out of Fresno. I can highly recommend them and the quality of their parts. I don't know much about CPP.
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:56 PM   #10
lolife99
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam1el View Post
Is there any reason to go with ece over cpp? 50 bucks doesn't seem like that much of a difference to my budget but what about parts quality?
Check out the review board section.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...ysprune=&f=122
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Convert to disc brakes.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

Last edited by lolife99; 01-19-2011 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:29 PM   #11
RCbowtie69
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

ECE is my choice, but i have brought my steering box from CCP,it was a quick ratio,love there products
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:37 PM   #12
Tx Firefighter
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Re: I hate to beat a dead horse but.

If ECE has a part I need I don't even bother to shop elsewhere. The potential savings would be a bitter pill to swallow in light of the customer service issues other places have and ECE does not have.

The CPP train wreck thread last week kind of reminded everyone that CPP is struggling to deal with issues.
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