Won't turn over...

[diabloceto]

Seems like there is always something with this truck. Getting frustrated and I need it to run. So 1972 Chevy Cheyenne with 350/350 I put a new HEI in it a few weeks ago it was running but rough. I tested I am getting 12 full volts there. I had to let it sit a couple weeks because of work etc before I could work on it again. It will not turn over at all when I turn the key I hear one click and battery volt meter on the dash pegs all the way to zero. I even tried jump starting off another vehicle no dice. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Later...Richard

[cdowns]

charge battery and take cables off and clean all 4ends and where they mount// reinstall and try it

[matthew20061]

Definitely sounds like your battery is low or shot. Sometimes jumping them just doesn't work enough to get the starter to engage so charge your battery and try again! I highly dought the engine seized up from sitting for a couple weeks.

[swamp rat]

A fully charged battery will be reading 13.8-14.2 V, As stated you should clean all connections but if that and charging still does not help I would suggest taking the charged battery to someplace that can pull a load test on the battery, A battery can still read a charge with a volt meter but not be able to deliver the cranking amps. Most good automotive parts places or even Sears or Les Schwab tires can do this. It sounds to me like you might need a new battery. If the load test is good and connections clean (this includes connections at the starter and ground point on the engine) then the silonoide on the starter may be suspect.

On the running rough. Check firing order to be sure wires are not crossed, make sure all ends of the wires are clean and tight on respectice connections to cap and plugs, personally i like using a little dielectric grease on my connections to help remove oxygen and precent corossion, check plugs for oil fouling and cracked insulators, check hei inside cap and rotor for burned contacts and possible crack in cap, clean contacts with a little sand paper. If wires are old its possible one could have a short and be arching to ground or another wire.

[diabloceto]

Alright I got it turning over now. I cleaned all the connections on the battery cables and that did the trick. One question: the negative cable has been strapped to the fender on the side of the truck this is not where it supposed to be at is it? Where should it be at?

I am pretty sure the timing is off and keeping it from cranking. I had problems getting the distributor in when I was replacing it and I believe the rotor moved. I did a initial check of firing order and it is right. I am out of time for today to work on it. But tomorrow gonna find TDC and see if I can't get the timing right.

Thanks everyone for suggestions and such, I never claim to be a expert at this mechanicing thing so sometimes my frustration gets the best of me.

Later...Richard

[swamp rat]

The negitive strap needs to be located on the engine, preferably in the passanger head front, there should be some bolt holes there. If your grounding to the fender then the engine ground is the little straps that are hooked from the valve cover to the firewall, not very good.

It does sound to me that the timing may be off on the install, you need to have the roter and #1 on the cap roughly pointing to the #1 cylindar (assuming V-8), this will allow a full range of timing or distributor movement.

The distributor won't keep the engine from turning over, all that will do is possibly throw off spark timing, now if a cylendar does fire before the piston reaches TDC it will possibly cause some pressure buildup making it turn a little harder, but the starter in design is suppost to be strong enough to overcome this.. My thought is the biggest problem (in basic terms) is a poor ground for the starter, without a proper ground all the cranking amps are struggeling to find a way back to the battery by finding any way it can, this creates resistance and makes the starter labor more.