Need some more advice or ideas - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

CVA59 · 01-31-2011, 02:01 PM

As some on here may know. I have decided to install a S10 rear end into my 64. The reason for this is so i can run my 15x12 Cragar SS wheels with the 29x15.5x15 M/T's and have plently of clearance. So far everything is working out great. However, I am at a crossroad on how to actually attached the S10 rear into my truck. The S10 rear had leafs with straight perches. This is where i would like to get some input from you guys. I am thinking of moving the front brackets of my trailing arms out and under the main frame rails. Then that would let me run the T/A's straight back (similiar to the old ladder bar setup) Then i would remove the bottom half of crossmember bracket, this will allow the coils to move in and then be bolted to the crossmember itself (with reinforcememnt of course). This will also serve to lower the truck in the rear some and retain my stock coils. The only other thing would be to fab some new shock mounts. Otherwise, that should be the extent of it. Has anyone done this before and do you have any other ideas on doing something like this?
Thanks

SCOTI · 02-06-2011, 06:16 PM

I have to ask why? I just read through your thread update & wonder what benefit do you feel is gained w/this set-up vs. the factory locations?

CVA59 · 02-07-2011, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I have to ask why? I just read through your thread update & wonder what benefit do you feel is gained w/this set-up vs. the factory locations?

I want more tire/wheel clearance. The facotry location of the coils would be too close to the inside of the tire for my taste. Also, By moving the arms inside the frame that will allow them to rest under the frame crossmember therefore, lowering the rear slightly.

SCOTI · 02-07-2011, 11:52 AM

15x12's right?

I ran 15x15" steelies w/29x18.5 Mickey T Sportsman Pros on my RetroRod back in the early 90's using a stock length 68 12-bolt w/the truck arms in the factory location.

CVA59 · 02-07-2011, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

15x12's right?

I ran 15x15" steelies w/29x18.5 Mickey T Sportsman Pros on my RetroRod back in the early 90's using a stock length 68 12-bolt w/the truck arms in the factory location.

Yes, I remember you saying that but, with my backspacing and rear end width i will have 1/2" or less clearance between tire and frame, i would feel better having all the room i can get. It is gonna work out perfectly i just need to build some new shock mounts and i should be all set to go.

SCOTI · 02-07-2011, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CVA59

Yes, I remember you saying that but, with my backspacing and rear end width i will have 1/2" or less clearance between tire and frame, i would feel better having all the room i can get. It is gonna work out perfectly i just need to build some new shock mounts and i should be all set to go.

More power to 'ya.....

CVA59 · 02-07-2011, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

More power to 'ya.....

LOL, my biggest thing now is to make sure i get the wheelbase back in the right spot otherwise just a matter of bolting everything back up.

01-31-2011, 02:01 PM	#1
CVA59 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Longview, Texas Posts: 775	Need some more advice or ideas As some on here may know. I have decided to install a S10 rear end into my 64. The reason for this is so i can run my 15x12 Cragar SS wheels with the 29x15.5x15 M/T's and have plently of clearance. So far everything is working out great. However, I am at a crossroad on how to actually attached the S10 rear into my truck. The S10 rear had leafs with straight perches. This is where i would like to get some input from you guys. I am thinking of moving the front brackets of my trailing arms out and under the main frame rails. Then that would let me run the T/A's straight back (similiar to the old ladder bar setup) Then i would remove the bottom half of crossmember bracket, this will allow the coils to move in and then be bolted to the crossmember itself (with reinforcememnt of course). This will also serve to lower the truck in the rear some and retain my stock coils. The only other thing would be to fab some new shock mounts. Otherwise, that should be the extent of it. Has anyone done this before and do you have any other ideas on doing something like this? Thanks __________________ Zack www.23t.weebly.com _________________________________ Last edited by CVA59; 01-31-2011 at 02:03 PM.

02-06-2011, 06:16 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,938	Re: Need some more advice or ideas I have to ask why? I just read through your thread update & wonder what benefit do you feel is gained w/this set-up vs. the factory locations? __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

02-07-2011, 11:52 AM	#4
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,938	Re: Need some more advice or ideas 15x12's right? I ran 15x15" steelies w/29x18.5 Mickey T Sportsman Pros on my RetroRod back in the early 90's using a stock length 68 12-bolt w/the truck arms in the factory location. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*



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