Advise on c-notch?

[NINERS1]

Going to do a bolt in c-notch and want to know what is the best way to go about it. Do I bolt it in then cut the frame or mark it, cut the frame then bolt it in? going to use an angle grinder with cutting wheel on it, and a step bit for the holes. any help would be appreciated! thanks Jim

[gearys 5600]

I believe you have to mark it, cut the frame, then bolt or weld it in.

[CUSTOM 72]

I bought my 3" c-notch pre made, it is a bolt on kit ( very easy and clean install ), i first took my shocks and springs out and rested the frame on the diff, made a center mark on the frame from the center of the diff, marked my pattern on the frame and cut it out with a grinder ( cutting wheel ) Then bolted in the c-notch. took me about 4hrs to do, hope this helps bud

[stevencvn72]

First, jack the axel to the frame to find where it'll hit so you know where to place your notch. If it's a CPP notch, the instructions aren't always dead on.

Then, I made a cardboard template:


Marked the frame:


Cut...and don't forget to trim some of the spring reinforcing plate so your notch sits flush.:


Refit, mark holes, spend half the day drilling said holes...paint.


and bolt on!




Enjoy!...Actual results may vary.




and don't forget about tool safety!

[NINERS1]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM 72

I bought my 3" c-notch pre made, it is a bolt on kit ( very easy and clean install ), i first took my shocks and springs out and rested the frame on the diff, made a center mark on the frame from the center of the diff, marked my pattern on the frame and cut it out with a grinder ( cutting wheel ) Then bolted in the c-notch. took me about 4hrs to do, hope this helps bud

thanks for the help!! sounds easy enough, where did you buy your c-notch? the one i'm looking at is only a 2".

Originally Posted by stevencvn72

First, jack the axel to the frame to find where it'll hit so you know where to place your notch. If it's a CPP notch, the instructions aren't always dead on.

Then, I made a cardboard template:


Marked the frame:


Cut...and don't forget to trim some of the spring reinforcing plate so your notch sits flush.:


Refit, mark holes, spend half the day drilling said holes...paint.


and bolt on!




Enjoy!...Actual results may vary.




and don't forget about tool safety!

hope with a good bit it won't take so long! thanks for the help!!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by NINERS1

.... hope with a good bit it won't take so long! thanks for the help!!

Go buy a quality uni-bit and some good cutting oil. Your going to be a while.

[NINERS1]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Go buy a quality uni-bit and some good cutting oil. Your going to be a while.

will do. thanks all for your help!

[lolife99]

Several suspension Vendors sell these bolt-in c-notches.
Here's a few:
* Classic Performance Products
* Performance On Line
* McGaughy's Suspension

I prefer the new bolt in notch from www.PorterbuiltStreetRods.com.
(It's listed in the "mild" rear drop kit,... but I assume it can be purchased seperately)

[stevencvn72]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Go buy a quality uni-bit and some good cutting oil. Your going to be a while.

Yeah...don't be like me and buy a quasi good quality uni-bit and have it break in the hole. Ever try to drill out hardened steel?

Oh yeah...mine was a cpp notch.

[NINERS1]

anyone have a brand name of a quality bit?

[Shane]

forget what the super-builders from Discovery channel uses and save yourself some cash by just using good sharp regular twist drills ... there is a reason they've been in use for over 150 years in metal-working circles

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by NINERS1

anyone have a brand name of a quality bit?

It doesn't get much better than "Klein". All their stuff is top notch professional grade.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/59001.html

Originally Posted by Shane

forget what the super-builders from Discovery channel uses and save yourself some cash by just using good sharp regular twist drills ... there is a reason they've been in use for over 150 years in metal-working circles

Seriously though, twist drills are great if you are using a drill press. But for drilling holes bigger than about 3/8" diameter, in steel, with a hand drill you really can't beat a uni-bit. Nice true round holes and it doesn't try to rip the drill out of your hand.

It's ok to embrace new technology when working on old stuff.... really, it is.

[Shane]

uni-bits are what you call new technology?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Shane

uni-bits are what you call new technology?

Well, 'newer' than twist style bits .

[Shane]

point taken ... then again, bicycles are "newer" than horse and buggy too.

anywhoo ... step-drills (uni-bit style) are designed to enlarge already existing holes (not creating new holes) in material less than 1/8" in thickness.

p.s. i'm fairly confident he doesn't want to debate me in the subject of new technology and metal cutting.

[tubbedII]

I've never owned "quality" drill bits...just craftsman stuff so I can't really say the unibits are better than good regular bits. Although, after I bought my cheap unibits from harbor frieght, I'll never try to drill through a frame with a regular bit again. I use them from from start to finish (no pilot hole) with great results. They don't really walk on you when not using a punch either, but I still use one 95% of the time.

I have broken a couple of them (usually my fault for going at an angle at the start)l, but given they are from Harbor Frieght, it's cheap enough to replace without me being too angry about it.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Shane

p.s. i'm fairly confident he doesn't want to debate me in the subject of new technology and metal cutting.

Debate, no need for that. Those who have posted here know from first hand experience which worked better for them in this application (drilling holes in frames with a hand drill).

Thus far you are the stand alone when it comes to recommending twist drills, for this application.

Do tell us though, how would you do this? Let's say you want to end up with multiple 9/16" diameter holes in a Chevy Truck Frame that is 0.160" thick and you were using a common hand held 1/2" drill motor like a Makita or Dewalt and a cardboard template showing where the holes go. Give us the step-by-step Shane's how to.

[jasonroman]

not sure if its just me or not.... but ive come to notice that on many threads started by others, SHANE tends to get into a battle of words with people.
this thread started with a guy looking for advice or ideas, and is ending up with a debate on drill bits.
good luck with the notch man.
i was gonna try this on my 85. but ended up having a buddy do it for me.
well he is in the works of getting truck lowered for me.
shoulda kept it and tried it on my own. but didnt want to mess anything up and be with out the truck.
good luck man.

[lakeroadster]

Anyone else?

[scum1]

i just put my c notch in...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=443217

the cpp notch went in great. even with the lil mods i had to do to make it fit it was still a real straight process. all the things mentioned above are spot on as far as how to do it. and esp the drill bit talk. one thing that helped me, dont laugh, but i never put the support handle on any of drills, and i put it on towards the end and it was soo much easier. doesnt wanna twist out of your hand nearly as much. i wonder if thats what they designed it for hmmmm haha

[SCOTI]

There's more than one way to successfully complete the task of drilling holes in a frame. I like using unibits when boring large diameter holes (over .500"). I tend to use regular bits on smaller holes.

And yes.... that handle makes it much better on the wrists .

[NINERS1]

great tips! going to order a step bit and have 4 good twist bits for back-up thanks for all the replys! without this site i would not have had the confidence to do half of the stuff i do to this truck!!!

[Shane]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

not sure if its just me or not.... but ive come to notice that on many threads started by others, SHANE tends to get into a battle of words with people.
this thread started with a guy looking for advice or ideas, and is ending up with a debate on drill bits.
good luck with the notch man.
i was gonna try this on my 85. but ended up having a buddy do it for me.
well he is in the works of getting truck lowered for me.
shoulda kept it and tried it on my own. but didnt want to mess anything up and be with out the truck.
good luck man.

easy bro ... if you will go back and read, you will notice that I'm not the one that started the disagreement ... I simply gave him advice (based on 25 plus years in the metal cutting business ) on what to use and what not to use and then someone else disagreed on my advice.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Debate, no need for that. Those who have posted here know from first hand experience which worked better for them in this application (drilling holes in frames with a hand drill).

Thus far you are the stand alone when it comes to recommending twist drills, for this application.

Do tell us though, how would you do this? Let's say you want to end up with multiple 9/16" diameter holes in a Chevy Truck Frame that is 0.160" thick and you were using a common hand held 1/2" drill motor like a Makita or Dewalt and a cardboard template showing where the holes go. Give us the step-by-step Shane's how to.

1.) center punch location
2.) pilot drill with a 9/32" twist - preferably one with a 118º split point
2.) then drill the hole to finish size using something similiar to this.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=53953&ucst=t

next question?

[Shane]

Originally Posted by NINERS1

great tips! going to order a step bit and have 4 good twist bits for back-up thanks for all the replys! without this site i would not have had the confidence to do half of the stuff i do to this truck!!!

You'll be fine. Center punch the hole locations and use a pilot drill. Rule of thumb for pilot drill is half the diameter of the finish hole size. Say it's a 1/2" hole, then pilot with a 1/4" then use the 1/2" drill to finish. Easy way to remember HALF the size of a fractional drill is to DOUBLE the denominator of the fraction - 1/2>1/4 ... 1/4>1/8 ... 1/8>1/16 ... notice how the number on bottom always doubles when the fraction is divided in half.

Either type drill (twist or step) will work once you have your pilot hole there.

Hope this helps.