Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

crakarjax · 02-10-2011, 03:36 PM

I was trying to roll my parts truck out of the garage after pulling the engine, and it was actually harder to do than it was before I pulled the engine! I thought that the passenger brake might have been stuck because that wheel didn't want to turn, but that isn't the case. I jacked the rear up and I can easily turn the driver's side wheel but not the passenger. I can get it to turn a bit if I really crank on it, but it's really tough!

Is this normal for an open rearend? I haven't cracked the diff. open but when I first got it I checked to see if it was limited slip and it was not (tires rotated different directions). Now when I rotate the drivers side the passenger side does nothing at all!

I'm going to crack it open but I'm, in the middle of pressure washing it right now and don't want water to get in there. I can't imagine what would case this, and it doesn't seem to be by design. TIA,

Russell

UPDATE:
Based on feedback, I have found that it was a darn near melted axle bearing. One if not both of the axles is shot and I am contemplating either rebuilding myself for $700 ($300 + $400 for adding posi to it) or looking for a built one to use instead. Any feedback on that is appreciated!

rwolf9653 · 02-10-2011, 03:44 PM

It is not normal for an open rear end, but I have to say 95% of the time it is the brakes locked up. See if there is an inspection plate where you can access the brake adjuster and dial that back. Crack the bleeder on the wheel cylinder to relieve any pressure that may be in the cylinder. Disconnect the e-brake cable and see if you can pull it and it springs back in. From what you initially described it does not sound like a rear end problem to me.

cdowns · 02-10-2011, 06:24 PM

is the transmission in park? or did you remember that it needs to b in neutral?

Longhorn Man · 02-10-2011, 06:58 PM

if it is not in gear/park, and the e-brake is off, I would jack it up, remove the wheel, and smack the drum a few times with a large hammer. No need to go crazy on it, but give it a few good whacks and then see if it'll turn.

chevytruckluver · 02-10-2011, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

is the transmission in park? or did you remember that it needs to b in neutral?

Surely you have more sence than to try to push the truck while in park...
after having put the rear in the air and not being able to turn the pass side I would have to say that I agree with the other posts that point to a brake issue on that side.
Do what Randy said and I bet you get it rolling again
good luck

Longhorn Man · 02-10-2011, 11:04 PM

pssst... it's andy... not randy

Jacfourteen · 02-10-2011, 11:12 PM

I agree, prolly a sticky drum.

chevytruckluver · 02-10-2011, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

pssst... it's andy... not randy

Sorry Andy...I was refering to a diffrent member, rwolf9653 (Randy). He actually posted before you did.
But your information was spot on aswell!

cdowns · 02-11-2011, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

Surely you have more sence than to try to push the truck while in park...
after having put the rear in the air and not being able to turn the pass side I would have to say that I agree with the other posts that point to a brake issue on that side.
Do what Randy said and I bet you get it rolling again
good luck

i see people that overthink soultions all the time and assume that the most basic things have been done,when in fact they have been overlooked

**special-K** · 02-11-2011, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

pssst... it's andy... not randy

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

Sorry Andy...I was refering to a diffrent member, rwolf9653 (Randy). He actually posted before you did.
But your information was spot on aswell!

You were referring to the Wronghorn Man

If you can't just slide that drum off you know it's stuck. As mentioned,just give it a few raps.

Longhorn Man · 02-11-2011, 06:31 PM

I feel like an ass now!

**'70_402** · 02-11-2011, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I feel like an ass now!

I bet you think this song is about you don't you!! haha..

vectorit · 02-11-2011, 06:50 PM

Burnt out wheel bearing getting ready to seize?

Longhorn Man · 02-11-2011, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '70_402

i bet you think this song is about you don't you!! Haha..

lmao!!!!!!

crakarjax · 02-12-2011, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vectorit

Burnt out wheel bearing getting ready to seize?

How likely is that?

Sorry guys I forgot to mention that I suspected the brakes in the first place so I took the wheel and drum off to no avail. Also, the trans isn't even hooked up!

Maybe if I am lucky I have a posi with a burnt out clutch pack or something? Would these symptoms be there if that was the case? I think I'll pop the cover off tonight to check.

crakarjax · 02-13-2011, 11:38 PM

Ok, I pulled the cover and everything looked normal. Let out the brake adjuster just to be sure. Pulled the gears inside the carrier to make sure it wasn't a binding issue at that area. I still couldn't turn it! I think that isolates the bearings, right? I wasn't planning on it, but perhaps I should do a full rearend rebuild. Not that I know what that means. Are there any guides to rebuilding the truck 12-bolt that you guys know of?

I'm not even sure where the bearing is or how to get to it. I assume there are two bearings per axle. Oh, I took some pics of the nasty yellow sludge that was in there... not sure what's up with that but I think it was definitely low on oil and that probably contributed to whatever has rusted up.

**oldgold70c10** · 02-13-2011, 11:46 PM

If its a half ton, for each axle half there is an inside bearing in the diff and a wheel bearing at the outside. They like to mill a nice groove in the axle when they go bad, so you'll either need an axle saver bearing, or new axle shafts and bearings.

ItsRandy · 02-14-2011, 01:48 AM

Put a 9" Strainge (Ford) in it. For a few hundred bucks more than you will spend rebuilding the stock rear end you can have a rear end with 35 spline axles, Detroit Locker, disk brakes and what ever gear ratio you want and it will be REAL hard to break.
Posted via Mobile Device

vectorit · 02-14-2011, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakarjax

How likely is that?

Very likely if the gear lube has run low, or has become contaminated with water or the wrong lube added to it.

Outer bearings are nothing to R&R, how ever the inner bearing is a little more involved. But, if there is one burnt there will most likely be damage to others. Including the axles themselves if the race has spun.

cdowns · 02-14-2011, 06:59 AM

have you tried to grab hold of the driveshaft and turn it over by hand? should b easily accessable with the tranny removed

crakarjax · 02-14-2011, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

have you tried to grab hold of the driveshaft and turn it over by hand? should b easily accessable with the tranny removed

It would be easy, I have the bed off as well! What would it tell me if I can turn it by hand?

cdowns · 02-14-2011, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakarjax

It would be easy, I have the bed off as well! What would it tell me if I can turn it by hand?

if your rear wheels turn

**70cst** · 02-14-2011, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

pssst... it's andy... not randy

crakarjax · 02-14-2011, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

Put a 9" Strainge (Ford) in it. For a few hundred bucks more than you will spend rebuilding the stock rear end you can have a rear end with 35 spline axles, Detroit Locker, disk brakes and what ever gear ratio you want and it will be REAL hard to break.
Posted via Mobile Device

I find that hard to believe... How much do you think it will cost me if I rebuild it myself? I'd be looking at around $3000 for a new ford 9" with brakes, not to mention the time it would take to make it fit.

Is there a quick test I can do to see if the axle shaft is grooved? Check for play or something?

edit: Found some rebuild kits for around $90, which include all the seals, bearings, shims, crush sleeve, etc. and it looks to be about $100 for an axle shaft, so $200 total unless I am missing something?

crakarjax · 02-20-2011, 09:28 PM

Alright, pulled both axles. It looks like this rearend was low on oil for quite some time. The passenger outside bearing was very well mutilated/melted and there was an overabundance of rusty crust in the axle tube. Not to mention the filler hole has been welded closed for some reason.... and I see two holes on either side of the pumpkin that look to be hand welded closed, are those supposed to be like that?

The driver's side axle looks kind of galled but nothing that would catch my fingernail. Is there a limit to how much material can be worn off the axle? I have a digital caliper that I can get a rough measurement with. I'd like to reuse the axle if possible to save myself $100 but if there's a high probability of messing up the bearing well... actually it might be worth it, it's a pretty easy swap.

So if I have to do both axles I'm looking at roughly $300 for a whole rearend rebuild, $700 if I put a powertrax no-slip unit in there. Can I get a built limited slip rearend for that much?

02-10-2011, 03:36 PM	#1
crakarjax Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kirkland, WA Posts: 1,302	Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! I was trying to roll my parts truck out of the garage after pulling the engine, and it was actually harder to do than it was before I pulled the engine! I thought that the passenger brake might have been stuck because that wheel didn't want to turn, but that isn't the case. I jacked the rear up and I can easily turn the driver's side wheel but not the passenger. I can get it to turn a bit if I really crank on it, but it's really tough! Is this normal for an open rearend? I haven't cracked the diff. open but when I first got it I checked to see if it was limited slip and it was not (tires rotated different directions). Now when I rotate the drivers side the passenger side does nothing at all! I'm going to crack it open but I'm, in the middle of pressure washing it right now and don't want water to get in there. I can't imagine what would case this, and it doesn't seem to be by design. TIA, Russell UPDATE: Based on feedback, I have found that it was a darn near melted axle bearing. One if not both of the axles is shot and I am contemplating either rebuilding myself for $700 ($300 + $400 for adding posi to it) or looking for a built one to use instead. Any feedback on that is appreciated! __________________ 1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed Last edited by crakarjax; 02-20-2011 at 09:30 PM.

02-10-2011, 03:44 PM	#2
rwolf9653 more ideas than money Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: spring grove, pa Posts: 1,068	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! It is not normal for an open rear end, but I have to say 95% of the time it is the brakes locked up. See if there is an inspection plate where you can access the brake adjuster and dial that back. Crack the bleeder on the wheel cylinder to relieve any pressure that may be in the cylinder. Disconnect the e-brake cable and see if you can pull it and it springs back in. From what you initially described it does not sound like a rear end problem to me. __________________ Randy 1948 Chevy 3100 5 window 1966 Chevy C30 Dually 1967 Chevy K10 1972 Chevy K20 1972 Chevy C10 1972 Chevy K5 Blazer 1987 Chevy V10 2003 Chevy Suburban

02-10-2011, 06:24 PM	#3
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! is the transmission in park? or did you remember that it needs to b in neutral? __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY Last edited by cdowns; 02-10-2011 at 06:27 PM.

02-10-2011, 06:58 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! if it is not in gear/park, and the e-brake is off, I would jack it up, remove the wheel, and smack the drum a few times with a large hammer. No need to go crazy on it, but give it a few good whacks and then see if it'll turn.

02-10-2011, 11:04 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! pssst... it's andy... not randy

02-10-2011, 11:12 PM	#7
Jacfourteen Big Red - Now its a SWB! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, Ca Posts: 1,624	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! I agree, prolly a sticky drum. __________________ 68 3/4 ton (Project)-350 Small Block, .030 over, 10:1 comp, 3998993 heads, C3BX edelbrock intake, comp cams XE268, Holley 670 SA, long tube headers, dual flow 40's, E-fan, Alum rad, currently under the knife getting shortened and bagged build thread 41 3/4 ton (wife's)-flatbed, fully restored to original 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's

02-11-2011, 06:31 PM	#11
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! I feel like an ass now!

02-11-2011, 06:50 PM	#13
vectorit What? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,617	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! Burnt out wheel bearing getting ready to seize? __________________ Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU

02-13-2011, 11:38 PM	#16
crakarjax Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kirkland, WA Posts: 1,302	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! Ok, I pulled the cover and everything looked normal. Let out the brake adjuster just to be sure. Pulled the gears inside the carrier to make sure it wasn't a binding issue at that area. I still couldn't turn it! I think that isolates the bearings, right? I wasn't planning on it, but perhaps I should do a full rearend rebuild. Not that I know what that means. Are there any guides to rebuilding the truck 12-bolt that you guys know of? I'm not even sure where the bearing is or how to get to it. I assume there are two bearings per axle. Oh, I took some pics of the nasty yellow sludge that was in there... not sure what's up with that but I think it was definitely low on oil and that probably contributed to whatever has rusted up. __________________ 1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed

02-13-2011, 11:46 PM	#17
oldgold70c10 Who's got steelies? Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Morrison, Oklahoma Posts: 1,026	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! If its a half ton, for each axle half there is an inside bearing in the diff and a wheel bearing at the outside. They like to mill a nice groove in the axle when they go bad, so you'll either need an axle saver bearing, or new axle shafts and bearings. __________________ 1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel

02-14-2011, 01:48 AM	#18
ItsRandy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Grand Terrace, Ca. Posts: 1,607	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! Put a 9" Strainge (Ford) in it. For a few hundred bucks more than you will spend rebuilding the stock rear end you can have a rear end with 35 spline axles, Detroit Locker, disk brakes and what ever gear ratio you want and it will be REAL hard to break. Posted via Mobile Device

02-14-2011, 06:59 AM	#20
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! have you tried to grab hold of the driveshaft and turn it over by hand? should b easily accessable with the tranny removed __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY Last edited by cdowns; 02-14-2011 at 08:10 AM.

02-20-2011, 09:28 PM	#25
crakarjax Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kirkland, WA Posts: 1,302	Re: Truck 12 Bolt - Can't spin passenger Wheel when on Jack stands! Alright, pulled both axles. It looks like this rearend was low on oil for quite some time. The passenger outside bearing was very well mutilated/melted and there was an overabundance of rusty crust in the axle tube. Not to mention the filler hole has been welded closed for some reason.... and I see two holes on either side of the pumpkin that look to be hand welded closed, are those supposed to be like that? The driver's side axle looks kind of galled but nothing that would catch my fingernail. Is there a limit to how much material can be worn off the axle? I have a digital caliper that I can get a rough measurement with. I'd like to reuse the axle if possible to save myself $100 but if there's a high probability of messing up the bearing well... actually it might be worth it, it's a pretty easy swap. So if I have to do both axles I'm looking at roughly $300 for a whole rearend rebuild, $700 if I put a powertrax no-slip unit in there. Can I get a built limited slip rearend for that much? __________________ 1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed



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