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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2
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I pulled the two-piece drive shaft from my 84 suburban because of vibration. The center carrier bearing support is shot and I am not sure how to remove it (the bearing from the driveshaft). Do I need a puller, is there a key? Should I take it to a shop?
The manuals I have barely mention the part. Any help or link to a site that has information on this would be helpful. I will be doing the u-joints while I am at it. Recommendations for a better than OEM bearing is also appreciated. Thanks in advance |
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#2 |
BAD BOW-Silverado XST
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX
Posts: 6,431
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hksimpson,
Any replacement U joint will probably do. Just buy the one that have nipples for greasing. If the U joints are original you gonna have heat them up to remove them. There is a plactic seal that will burn out and ooze out. Heating the joints will make the job easier. Or you beat them to death. I'm not sure about the middle bearing. Is it press fit? ------------------ Gerardo 1983 Custom Truck TX Plates: "BAD BOW" |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 7
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Try www.iedls.com for a new center support bearing. It's polyurethane and should last for quite awhile.
I had one installed when they created the driveshaft for my truck. So I'm not exactly sure on the removal/install. Hope this helps. |
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#4 |
Hillbilly Hotrod
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Oregon
Posts: 69
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The carrier bearing is pressed on, I have a puller at work to get them off.
Or if you have a torch handy cut it off. Once the outer part of the bearing is off the inner race wil be left. you just have to be carful about cutting it off or you will also cut into the shaft. I have done dozens of them that way. You could also take it into a driveline shop and have them remove it and press the new one on. I wouldn't think that it would cost more than $15-$20. ------------------ 78 K5 on 3/4 ton axles.
__________________
69 K5, .060 over 350/465/205. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: horn lake,ms
Posts: 388
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take a 3/4 wrench, open end and grind the side down to take the bolt out that holds the two shafts together, i use a drift pin and a hammer to get the bearing off, then i sand the splines on the shaft to get the new one on. I have never had to take my drive shaft to a shop to have it done.
my .02 ------------------ 1976 Crew Cab Dually (under construction) 1972 Suburban 1955 Pro Street Chevy 1985 S-10 Blazer (daily driver) V W Sandrail Located in Horn Lake, MS that's just 4 miles south of Memphis TN www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/members/gallery2/223/display.htm Former engine builder for Racing Head Service Performance Engines in Memphis TN. over 1,600 plus engines built by little ole me!! GOD BLESS THE BRAVEST OF THE BRAVE...THE NEW YORK CITY FIRE FIGHTERS!!
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1976 Crew Cab Dually (under construction) 1972 Suburban 1955 Pro Street Chevy 1985 S-10 Blazer (daily driver) V W Sandrail Located in Horn Lake, MS that's just 4 miles south of Memphis TN www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/members/gallery2/223/display.htm Former engine builder for Racing Head Service Performance Engines in Memphis TN. over 1,600 plus engines built by little ole me!! GOD BLESS THE BRAVEST OF THE BRAVE...THE NEW YORK CITY FIRE FIGHTERS!! |
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#6 | |
Hillbilly Hotrod
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Oregon
Posts: 69
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A pair of channel locks to take the grease ring off is all that is required to seperate the shafts. And there is no need to sand the splines, the new bearing will go past them, it will have to be pressed onto the shaft when it gets past the splines. hammer and punch to get the bearing off? good luck. BTW I work on rigs for a living and the bearing does not come off that easy. At least the 200 or so ones that I have done never did. I have done it but it took a long time and a trip to the hospitil to get a chunk of steel removed from my buddys hand. ------------------ 78 K5 on 3/4 ton axles.
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69 K5, .060 over 350/465/205. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I ended up taking it to a machine shop to have them press it off. It was impossible to see the line between the bearing and the shaft because of the rust. $70 for labor for the bearing and 3 u-joints (r&r). The vibration is now gone.
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