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03-16-2003, 04:34 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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Edelbrock 1406 related questions...
I'm mounting this new carb and since I'm converting from a little 2bbl 327 setup to a full-out performer setup I've had plenty of fun yanking the intake, and generally taking everything apart and replacing everything I can get my hands on.
I've been wondering about how I'm going to set up the electric choke. The directions call out for a 12v source that's controlled by the ignition switch. What has everyone done to get theirs working? I assume it either uses its own ground (where?), but the positive has to lead to a source that is controlled by the key, and NOT the coil or alternator (duh, no kidding). Any ideas? Also, I realized I was going to have to do something about the detent switch for my TH400. My old setup consisted of an old stock switch that mounted to the 2bbl carb, so the wires are right under the hood. I ordered a kit from Lokar, which uses a cable similar to the TH350, only it connects to a cable-actuated electric switch contained in a box that mounts to the transmission. I haven't seen it yet so I don't even know if I did the right thing by ordering it. I also don't know if the cable will attach to the throttle linkage. Anyone use this? If so how does it connect? If not what was your setup instead? Finally, I'm taking this opportunity to straighten out the wiring for the coil, the starter, and the temp guage wire. Before this little project they were simply in the way and tied to whatever I could find with zip-ties (looks crappy), so I'm thinking about what would be a good way to either secure these wires so they're out of the way (wire clips? Secure around the heater box?) or even hide them completely. What's everyone done? Sorry for all the Q's after midnight, but I can't sleep!
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
03-16-2003, 04:56 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Mission Viejo, Ca
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before you use that carb you may want to consider taking it back and getting the manual choke model #1405. I was told by edelbrock tech that they have a lot of problems with the 1406 running too lean.. these problems are avoided by going with the 1405 and you should be ok with this in seattle IMO. Edelbrocks words to me were "this is a case where the cheaper manual choke carb is better".
I have a 1405 carb on my 4x4 and love it. Good luck with whatever you do Tom |
03-16-2003, 10:04 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New York
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For the electric choke, I ran the wire through the firewall to the fuse box. Attached a spade terminal and stuck it in a fused spot that shuts down when the key's turned off. The ground on the 1406 is just connected to the carb itself. Just follow the instructions on that.
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03-16-2003, 11:55 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pottsboro,tx
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i did what 72K10 did,just ran a wire from the fuse box to the carb.....the problem i had on my 1406 was it was getting too much fuel,so i bought a fuel pressure regulator off a guy on here and dropped the pressure down to about 3.5 to 4psi and it works great...just my .02
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03-16-2003, 12:37 PM | #5 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,531
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I also ran a wire from the fuse box to carb. I believe that the termanil was labeled "IGN". I put a inline fuse holder on the wire, and also hooked up a 12 ga. wire to my HEI distributor from the same terminal. You can ground the choke to just about any metal on the truck. BTW, if you don't already have an HEI distributor, now would be a great time to upgrade to one, since you already have the old one out, and plan to re-do the wiring.
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg |
03-16-2003, 02:06 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
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Thanks for the response, guys. I'm going to stick with the 1406 because I wanted an electric choke. I figured I could run the wire to the fuse box. Doesn't seem too difficult as long as there's an open spot under there. I don't want to hack up any harnesses.
What's everyone done about their loose wires under the hood?
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
03-16-2003, 05:35 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville, CA
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there should be 2 places in the fuse box where it say "Ign. Unfused" where you can connect it. I will go look right now to make sure, but that should work.
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70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI |
03-16-2003, 05:38 PM | #8 |
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it acutally looks like there is only 1 spot to put the wire, but until you change to HEI, that will be fine.
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70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI |
03-16-2003, 06:00 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
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Again I did the same as 72K10. As far as the electric choke goes, I love it! It really makes the truck feel so much newer, dont have to pull knobs and adjust it just to get it started and idling...makes it feel like some kinda airplane starting up
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