Windshield molding issue

[Red68]

I had a local company install a new front windshield in 68 yesterday. In the top corners on the inside the molding buckled (looks like a piece of bacon). The installer really worked on it and said let it sit in the sun for a couple days and if it doesnt get better to bring it into his shop and they would see what they could do.

Has anyone had this problem before?

Any help would be appriciated.

[Rack Man]

I had an old school professional glass guy do mine and had the same problem.....only on one side though....The arizona heat helped a little but it never did get perfect.....couldnt find a solution at the time....Learned to live with it but it always did bug me!




RM

[Red68]

Thats what I thought, may have to live with it. If I recall the original had a little gap in the upper corners. Thanks for the post.

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by Rack Man

I had an old school professional glass guy do mine and had the same problem.....only on one side though....The arizona heat helped a little but it never did get perfect.....couldnt find a solution at the time....Learned to live with it but it always did bug me! RM

Same here...

[Livrat]

I have also gone through the same issues over the years with the trucks I have built and have tried many different manufactures windshield rubbers.. Some are horrible and really "bacon up" on the corners, some not so bad..
I have found that "Prescision replacement parts" gaskets are simply the better fitting and easier to install than all the rest.. its all I will use!

Part numbers are:
WCR 685 (accepts deep trim lip).
WCR 685A (Accepts shallow trim lip).
WBL 685 (for no chrome trim).

[AirSpeed]

My 69 did the same thing, I left it alone for a couple months with no improvement, I finally ended up using a little super glue, its been perfect ever since.

[Red68]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

My 69 did the same thing, I left it alone for a couple months with no improvement, I finally ended up using a little super glue, its been perfect ever since.

Thanks for the tip may need to give it a try!!

[ChevLoRay]

Originally Posted by Livrat

......
Part numbers are:
WCR 685 (accepts deep trim lip).
WCR 685A (Accepts shallow trim lip).
WBL 685 (for no chrome trim).

Deep vs shallow lip? Is that a year model thing? I asked because I have new rubber and new stainless trim for the windshield and back glass. I assume I bought correctly, but am not to the installation phase, so not too late to correct.

[dixietruck71]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

Deep vs shallow lip? Is that a year model thing? I asked because I have new rubber and new stainless trim for the windshield and back glass. I assume I bought correctly, but am not to the installation phase, so not too late to correct.

shallow molding is 71-72 from what i can tell and deep molding is 67-70.

i am having trouble finding a company that has the shallow trim gasket locally.

many glass people have told me in the last week that percision gaskets are the only way to go and fit very nice in the 67-72 trucks.

[71 super]

The trim is different for 71-72 vs 67-70, as are the gaskets- but you can use 67-70 gasket and trim on 71-72- reason for this is that the 67-70 is much easier to install! The 71-72 is hard to use in best conditions. You must be sure that the trim 67-70 (deep groove) matches your gasket 67-70 (deep groove). The 71-72 gasket is a shallow groove trim that needs shallow groove gasket you can not mix and match, but for easy of install the 67-70 stuff is much easier!

[Lee H]

Once installed is there a noticeable difference between the sallow and deep?

[Tim Christian]

I only use Soffseal in my personal rides and it lays down in the corners.

[71 super]

There is no visual difference installed in shallow vs deep. Only difference is ease of installation.

[elf w/capital T]

so glad to have this forum. Thanks 71 Super!

[57taskforce]

The shallow groove trim is more likely to not stay in according to the research I've done for my cheyenne. ive got no firsthand experience but have read a few threads where the trim didn't want to stay In place very well with the later shallow design. Everyone seems to think the early 67-70 is by far the way to go if replacing it all.

[truckster]

As a former glass shop owner, I'm pretty confident that the installer knows it's not going to get any better. That's just his way of walking away without fixing it. And it's not easy to fix; the installer has to pull the windshield partway out, and in a 67-72 there's a pretty good chance of breaking the glass.

[cdowns]

I'd take a soft rubber mallet and work over the defective part a litte bit at a tim

[tommys72]

the seal is wrinkled in mine also, the installer tried to fix it and broke the windshield. l ended up dealing with it wrinkled.