Installed my air bags

[tubbedII]

I've been taking it slow with this, and finally today I got all 4 bags in! Just gotta work out the bugs now.

Here's a few pics:






Some details about my set-up:
All 4 bags are 2600 Air lift Dominators
Front has Suicidedoors cups and plates with the cups cut down to about 1 3/4", 2 1/2" drop spindles and stock control arms.
Rear has CPP bolt in c-notch, 2" blocks, super track bar, shock relocators and bags in stock location.
Rims are 22 x 9.5 with a 15mm offset. Fronts tires are 265/35 and rears are 295/30.

Here's the bugs:

#1. Viair 450 pump is making a high pitched noise when running. Anyone know why this might be happening? It's an old unit (about 4 years or so), but it was never ran.

#2. Front right dump valve doesn't work. Need to trouble shoot it, but didn't have time today.

#3. Switches needs to be to re-wired so the buttons match the action...no biggie, just need to work it out.

#4. Fix leaks. The gauges are the only things I know for sure that are leaking.

Let me know what you all think!

[N2TRUX]

Man I like that. Very tastefully done with the right size wheels and drop. Show us what she looks like at ride height.

[tubbedII]

Thanks, N2TRUX!

I wish I had pics of ride height, but it's unknown at this point. Ideally, I'd like to be able to ride about 2 1/2" higher than what it is aired out. Pretty much as low as possible while still having decent clearance everywhere. My concern is ride quality at this height since this would mean they'd only be inflated to 5 1/2". From what I've read, the dom's sweet spot is between 6"-9.7". Considering that, I have my neighbor making me a 1" block to make it a total of 3" block in the rear and I have cupped lca on it's way.

My thinking is the additional inch in the rear isn't going to give me any more drop, but will make my bag 4" tall at full drop as in the pics, so inflating them 2 1/2" more will give me my ride height and within the sweet spot. Same thing goes for the fronts. Does that make sense?

[VA72C10]

Very nice! And your thinking on ride quality sounds spot on from what I've been reading.

[N2TRUX]

Yes, that sounds right. I understand going lower to be able to run more pressure should help your ride. Keep us in the loop.
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[hotrodhomi]

looks good. Do you have a multimeter for troubleshooting the switches and valves? If not, I might be able to help you out with that. What model and size of valves did you end up with? I just bought some 3/8 SMC's for my truck. For leaks I use this stuff called Snoop, but its basically soapy water.

[tubbedII]

Cool! I'm glad the consensous about the ride quality is what I'm planning to do.

I actually don't know what valves they are. They were off my bro's truck (he's wasn't using them, so I took them). I thought I tested them all before plumbing but I guess I didn't do a good job.

Here's my plan of attack on the non-functioning valve:
1. Wire it straight to power to see if it clicks. If it does, it's in the wiring, because putting power to the wire at the switch box doesn't work.
2.If #1 doesn't work, swap out the "soleniod" (the black part on top of the valve if that's what it's called) with one thats working. If that fixes it, then I know it's the black part and I hope I can get a replacement.

If it's none of those, I really don't know...

Hotrodhomi, I've never used a multimeter, and if it's easier than what I said above, then I'm all for it! The worst part about my set up is how I mounted everthing. Below is an old picture, but all the valves are enclosed in a box that I can't really open and still use...but I have extra tube that I can use for testing:

[SevenOne]

Very sharp lookin truck.Im glad i seen this thread.Im in the middle of installing my doms(B6 in rear,B7 in front) and was assuming 5.5" -6.0" is what i should shoot for at ride height.Do you know any good threads or sites that may elaborate more on this?Thanks all

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by SevenOne

Very sharp lookin truck.Im glad i seen this thread.Im in the middle of installing my doms(B6 in rear,B7 in front) and was assuming 5.5" -6.0" is what i should shoot for at ride height.Do you know any good threads or sites that may elaborate more on this?Thanks all

Thanks SevenOne. I'm not sure what the B6/B7 is, but I did a little searching for more details on a good pressure, specifically for either a truck or blazer and haven't really had any luck. The most I found was the 6"-9.7" range for ride height, but that's on the 2600's. If you have 2500's for the rear, I'm pretty sure it'll be shorter than that since it's a shorter bag and you may not have any issues.

I think more than anything it's more dependent on the person's liking of ride (stiff vs loose) vs actual ride height. This is my 1st bagged vehicle, so I'm really hoping for that "smooth as a cadillac" ride I've always heard about, but more importantly I want to ride low...the look of a 5/7 drop.

[hotrodhomi]

good shocks will help smooth the ride.

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

good shocks will help smooth the ride.

Recommendations? I have KYB's on it now (they were on it when I bought the blazer). I didn't check the rear, but I'm pretty sure they are limiting the amount of lift. The fronts are actually perfect in the stock location...I get full drop and lift with both the upper and lower bump stops removed.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Recommendations? I have KYB's on it now (they were on it when I bought the blazer). I didn't check the rear, but I'm pretty sure they are limiting the amount of lift. The fronts are actually perfect in the stock location...I get full drop and lift with both the upper and lower bump stops removed.

have you used relocators on the rear to get the shocks more straight up and down? the angle affects how they work also...

[tcb-1]

#1. Viair 450 pump is making a high pitched noise when running. Anyone know why this might be happening? It's an old unit (about 4 years or so), but it was never ran. Looks like your using the original air intake filter. Try taking it off and running it. those silly little filters sometimes causes a high pitch whistling. if the pump is building pressure, it should be fine.

#2. Front right dump valve doesn't work. Need to trouble shoot it, but didn't have time today. make double sure your ground is solid. whose your valves manufactured by? I know my SMC can be a bit sticky when new.

#3. Switches needs to be to re-wired so the buttons match the action...no biggie, just need to work it out. numbering wires is the only way to go when running multiple valves. I run 4 lead trailer wire, simple and cheap.

#4. Fix leaks. The gauges are the only things I know for sure that are leaking. almost every system has a leak somewhere...... it's just how big of a leak you have that separates a good install. make sure you use a good quality thread sealant on EVERY connection. I prefer Loctite 545.

[shortbed70]

Well heres another bug you have to fix.... put the lower control arms on concidering they are heading your way tomarrow morning.

[tubbedII]

@VA72C10
I sure do! When I bought the blazer, they were on backwards, so now they are more verticle.

@tcb-1
#1. I did pull the filter off while running, but it didn't stop. I'm guessing it's the pump, but it was hard to pinpoint the noise. When I put my ear to the tank, fittings or pump the noise was equally loud. I'll try a homemade stethescope if I can.

#2. I don't know the brand, but will check it out and report back. They aren't new at all...same age as the pump. I remember one of the valves was not functioning on my brother's truck (that's where the valves are from) too when it was mocked up.

#3. I used a 5 wire grouping from Home Depot and all grounds are soldered together then clamped into a battery cable type clamp and mounted to the frame. I did label them, but I obviously didn't do a good job. I also plumbed it backwards; fronts are the rears now, but it was easier to plumb it this way and I wired it first.

#4. I'm using the 545. However, I didn't use them on the gauges since they looked so different. I know now I should have because the leak is audible. I was going to teflon tape but will def. use the 545. The fittings on the tank don't seem to be leaking, but need to do the soapy water test to confirm.

@Troy
You da man! Thanks for the deal on the cupped LCAs!


Hopefully I can get this all worked out soon. I'm hoping to be moving to a new spot here soon and I would like to be able to drive it there rather than tow it. I'll have a garage to myself so leaving it torn apart will not be an issue anymore and I can hopfully have quicker progress.

The list of to-do's is long, but here it goes:
1. Redo all brake lines (got a complete kit from inlinetube.com with braided ss ends)
2. Install new booster/master cylinder (gonna try and flush mount it so I can use the York I got)
3. Clean up firewall/engine bay. I want to weld up the A/C holes. Right now i just pop-riveted plates to get me by. I've never welded before, but I figure this would be a good first project.
4. Do headlight relay (got the relays and new "Silverlight" headlights)
5. Install bushings on T/A mounts
6. Install additional 1" block and cupped LCAs that are on the way!
7. Install new headers (got chevelle mid lengths) and get exhaust that's tucked away in the frame.
8. Tune-up on the motor

[tcb-1]

1. the compressor will make a birdlike whistling noise, but it shouldn't be crazy loud. since it was on your bro's truck, does he remember it being that loud?

2. bet you have a sticky valve. check out the manufacturer and report back.

3. I'd try a drop or two of 545 on the gauge threads as well. 545 "swells" and sets so all microscopic leaks should be remedied.

[Mad Rods]

Looking good!! Keep it up bro
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[firedog]

i agree sounds like a sticky valve if you do a search you should find a thread on how to clean and inspect a valve, i asked for the help about a year ago

[tubbedII]

@tcb-1
1. the compressor will make a birdlike whistling noise, but it shouldn't be crazy loud. since it was on your bro's truck, does he remember it being that loud?

Here's a video of it:
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/a...=VIDEO0016.mp4
I've let the pump fill up the tank about 5 times now, and the video was the loudest I ever heard. It doesn't start right away, it happens once the tank has a little bit of pressure. This is the 1st time the pump has ever been powered up, so I can't say it did this before.

2. bet you have a sticky valve. check out the manufacturer and report back.

I got this figured out tonight! The valves are Danz Enterprise 1/2" valves (I put flow controls after the fill valve to slow it down). The problem was the positive wire inside the connection was pulled out. Probably happened when I was stripping the wire with my cheapo strippers. I pulled it apart and put it back together and it works just fine. I also got the switches connected correctly.

3. I'd try a drop or two of 545 on the gauge threads as well. 545 "swells" and sets so all microscopic leaks should be remedied.

Found out I only have 1 leak on the gauge fittings. One of the fittings was missing so I bought another from the Parker Store, and it's leaking. I pulled it apart and put some 545 on it. I figured I'd let it dry and try it out tomorrow with my fingers crossed.

@Mad Rods
Thanks!!!

@firedog
I'm glad it wasn't sticking because I didn't want to pull apart the fittings. The nice part was when I pulled apart the connection, the wire is held in by a set screw and not soldered. Made the fix nice and simple!


So, if anyone has any idea on the high pitched noise, let me know!

[tcb-1]

ouch! that compressor IS loud! as the compressor builds up pressure, it sounds worse. doesn't sound like a motor problem, sounds more like a head/piston noise. short of tearing it down and checking everything out, you may call the manufacturer of it and see if they have any ideas.

[hotrodhomi]

it does sound louder than it should be, but its hard to tell if its the pump or just the audio on the video.

[tubbedII]

Figured out the noise! It was the fitting on the leader hose. I pulled it off the tank and ran the pump. If I put my thumb over it just right, it whistled just like the video. I swapped the pressure switch and the leader hose on the tank which eliminated the need for a reduce fitting on the leader hose and now it only has a small whistle like tcb says there is! Cleanup and holes in carpet will be tomorrow... tonight I'm going out to celebrate both this accomplishment and my bday!
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[tcb-1]

that's a new one on me! glad you got it quietened down. now it's time to hit the road in style!!!

[Mad Rods]

Happy Birthday bro!!!
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[tubbedII]

Thanks, Mad Rods!

Got some work done this weekend:
Cut out the floor to allow the pumpkin through, so now the rear sits a little lower, but more importantly, level.
Put the carpet back down and got the seat bolted back in.
TOOK IT FOR A SPIN! Just to get gas as it was sunny but not warm.

Here's the new problems:
Broke both the gauges trying to fix the leaks, so I just plugged the lines for now. Need to get some new ones though as I can't tell when driving where I'm at for height.
Rear wheels rub during turns. I think it's rubbing on the inner tub. I need to make sure the super trac bar is keeping it all centered, but if that's not it, I'm going to look into some spacers for the rear and also cutting out outside tub.
Still have leaks, but they take a couple hours to reveal themselves.

I have a couple weeks before my move, so I probably won't be doing much else to the blazer until after I get settled. The most would probably be playing with the super trac bar so I can drive it there with a little more confidence, but I need to concentrate more on boxing up my garage rather than working in it..

Thank you all for your help, comments and support!