Finally glide is it, but seem to have an issue..

[Super73]

Well I have been busy with school and have been able to spend a little time here and there getting the new glide in. It's finally in with the new shifter etc. The glide is an Abruzzi manual valve body T-brake deal with an 8" 5,200rpm N20 verter.

I put the truck in the air on the lift (tires 6" off the ground) to put it through the gears after setting the linkage up.
Turned the idle up to 1,500 and put dropped it in to first, tires spin, second you can tell it shifts and the tire speed goes up, perfect.
Put the brakes on and stick it in nuetral. If I take my foot off the brakes I get some wheel speed but I have seen that before with other trannys so not overly concerned.
Put on the brakes and put it in reverse and I have wheel speed in the forward direction (a little puzzled).
Step on the brakes and hit the T-brake button which should engage reverse according to Abruzzi.
Get off the brakes and the tires are still going in the forward direction (now really puzzled).
Put it in park and shut it off.
Put the shifter in to reverse and hit the T-brake button to see if I can hear the T-brake solenoid click like an N20 noid. Doesn't click, it screams while I am on the button, release the button, scream goes away.
Try it a few times and still screams.
I decided to put the truck in the air and tap lightly on the noid with the plastic end of a screw driver to see if perhaps it was stuck.
Bring it back down, with it off and in reverse try pushing the button and it screams again.

I have the T-brake wired through a relay. The NO side of the relay goes to the T-brake and the NC side feeds my N20 relays so that the unit won't be on when the T-brake is engaged.

I can't really get the truck out of the shop right now as it is raining here and I have a trailor 12" in front and 12" behind me blocking both doors. So no way to street test and there is no way I am going to try and get on the T-brake incase it isn't working.

So any ideas?

I'm going to call Abruzzi on Monday, but I figured I might be able to play with it a little tomorrow.

[djracer]

It should click when engaged not scream. Give me the numbers off the relay and how it is wired? Is it a one or two wire solenoid?

[Super73]

It's a Bosch relay.

85 power for the coil
86 ground for the coil
30 is the +12 in
87a goes to the N20 main power feed which in turn supplys the noids with power
87 goes to the Trans brake solenoid

2 wire noid, the ground is grounded to the pan.

[djracer]

Is the engine grounded to the frame?
I'm assuming 85 or 86 goes through a push button?

I would run power through the pushbutton straight to the transbrake solenoid. I would tap off the transbrake side and run it to 85 then I would run the ground to 86. Power to 30 then 87a to Through an arm switch to a second relay on 85 then ground to 86 through a wide open throttle switch. Power to 30 then nitrous solenoids to 87.

This way the transbrake solenoid doesn't go through the relay. It may release a little quicker if you do any pro tree racing. This will also keep the nitrous from activating unless the throttle is wide open.

[Super73]

I figured it out. I removed the relay and jumped 30 to 87 with a short wire and the T-brake noid fired. Then I looked at the wiring and realized that dummy me when wiring it, pulled power for both 85 and 30 from the same source, but I mistakenly hooked 87a in to 85 instead of the power source that 30 was getting. Reminder of why I don't do electrical when I am tired!!

I'll play with it the way it is before I rewire it. If I'm not happy with the reaction time of the truck then I might change it so the noid is directly through the switch. For some reason I don't like wiring things like noids direct, I like them going through a relay.

Thanks again.

[djracer]

You want a relay on anything with a motor like fuel pumps, water pumps, fans and nitrous solenoids. Depending on the size of the nitrous system a standard relay isn't enough. On bigger kits you want a continuous duty solenoid that looks like a Ford starter solenoid.

A transbrake solenoid doesn't pull much juice.

[68 C-10 KID]

Dang I need Dj to come wire my truck!

[Super73]

Originally Posted by djracer

A transbrake solenoid doesn't pull much juice.

The size of the solenoid would have me guessing otherwise. Thing looks like a power hog compared to my N20 noids.. But size doesn't always = current..

DJ you seem to have a pretty good handle on power consumption, any idea what kind of current a large NX N20 noid pulls?

[djracer]

Most transbrake solenoids I have delt with have really small wires like 18 to 20 ga. wire.

Some of the big nitrous solenoids are power hungry. I would get the number off of it and check NX's specs on there website.

[djracer]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

Dang I need Dj to come wire my truck!

I would but that's not right around the corner.

[djracer]

something to see if you need to wire a car.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ht=relay+board

[PGSigns]

A word of advise on the Abruzi brake. We run them and they are great breaks but you can break a stock case with them. They run about 220 pounds of pressure and if you get on the brake hard it will blow the band adjuster out the side of the stock case. If you want good reaction times and them to repeat get rid of the solenoid on the brake. They draw little power and don't need the thing. His brakes are also fluid brakes and use pressure to push the solenoid out and not a spring so hard to test with out making sure the stop is out before you hit the button.
Jimmy

[Super73]

PG, I'm not quite following you.. "If you want good reaction times and them to repeat get rid of the solenoid on the brake." Not sure what you are saying here.

[djracer]

I'm confused too.

[PGSigns]

Get rid of the relay. Sorry if it got confusing my mind is fading this week. Are you running a delay box? If not look into putting the transbrake button on the dash and not putting it on the steering wheel. An accidental hit of the button while going down the track or just driving will get ugly in a hurry. If you have any weak links in the drive train that brake will find them. What else did you do to the glide when you built it and what converter are you running? Are you planning on going against the converter when you leave or leave at a lower rpm? How big is the trans cooler? Here is a pic of the car I have now.
Jimmy

[PGSigns]

Just a little info, 555 cu in, 1.04 60 foot, 4.70' in the 1/8 mile and 7.40's in the 1/4.
Jimmy

[68 C-10 KID]

Thanks Dj.

[Super73]

The trans and verter are both Abruzzi pieces. The Verter is his 8" N20 verter in a 5,200rpm but tight.

No delay box (LS1 motor)

Currently have the button on the shifter and putting an inline switch so the button will not be active until that switch is on (My safety switch).

This is basically the cooler I have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70266/?rtype=10 I will be adding a fan to it.

For now I will probably go on the T-brake, but eventually I will be putting a 2-step in it to be able to fine tune leave rpm based on track conditions.

[PGSigns]

You will need the 2 step and try it at about 4000 and see how it goes. 5200 is a lot of stall and going against the converter it will make a lot of heat. So keep an eye on it. Abruzi builds a nice tranny and is a good guy to deal with. We have pitted next to him a couple of times at IHRA races and his top sportsman car runs like a bracket car just printing tickets round after round.
Jimmy

[Super73]

I plan on putting the temp guage on the output of the verter going to the cooler for a better idea of what temps the verter is seeing. From what I understand ater 30 or so seconds at idle, I'll get a good idea of what pan temps are.

Every time I have called, I get him on the phone and he is very helpful. Customer service so far has been great.

[PGSigns]

30 seconds at idle are not going to tell you what you need to know. The tranny will build heat every pass and the trick is to control it. You want the tranny up to temp before the first pass and we put the car on a jack and get everything moving. We run it forward and reverse and also put it on the brake and run it up. This will build some heat. We use a gas leaf blower on the converter after a run once we get into the later rounds when it does not have time to cool on its own. That helps the reaction time stay where we need it and ads life to the tranny that cooked fluid will take from it.
Jimmy

[Super73]

I think you missed the point I was making. From what I understand putting the temp guage in the line from the output of the converter too the cooler shows a higher temp than a sensor in the pan. It shows you what the temp is coming out of the verter. I am told that after a pass it will read much higher than the pan temp, but if you let it idle for about 30 seconds, it will reflect a similar temp as to what the fluid temp is in the pan.

I would rather see the hottest part (IE out put of verter) rather than the coolest part. But if what is said above is true, than I should be able to get a good idea of pan temp too (after letting it idle for 30 seconds or so).

Does that make better sense?

[PGSigns]

I like seeing the pan temp because that tells me what I have to work with. You can get scarry high temps out of the converter and if the cooler is doing its job and the oil in the pan is staying at a reasonable temp than I am ready for the next round. But if the pan is getting to 200 plus when I park it after the run then the drive back did little to cool the fluid and it will just be higher on the next pass. We run an ECS canister to get rid of some of the heat and to add another gallon of fluid to the system. Not sure how many passes you put on it a day but we have been 10 rounds for finish a race and the last 3 were in an hour and everything gets hot when you go round robin in the later rounds. Thats when the leaf blower comes out. Dragsters have an advantage of the tranny being open and getting good air flow and that helps a ton. We can tell when the heat is getting up by how fast the brake will set. it slows up and the car may rock a little if the temp is to high.
Jimmy