Starting building my motor today...LOTS of pics

[dave2953]

I got it back from the machine shop about three weeks ago but as of late dad hasn't felt well enough to come out to the shop. Today he was game and we got quite a bit done. In the last pics I decided to throw on the intake and valve covers for fun. Hoping to get the rest done tomorrow.

[hayhauler71]

looks good, what kind of coating is painted on the inside of the block? also what color block you going with?

[69 Okie Truck]

I love those old Edlebrock covers.....timeless

[70cst]

Great pics Thanks

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

looks good, what kind of coating is painted on the inside of the block? also what color block you going with?

Rusty metal primer on the inside. My dad has been telling me he'd done it for years and that it helps with oil drainback inside the block. The outside will be chevy orange. I have lots of cleaning and painting left to do..

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by 69 Okie Truck

I love those old Edlebrock covers.....timeless

Picked those up on Ebay just over a year ago for just over $40...I am pretty sure I stole them...

[DannyK]

Nice pics, thanks for posting. I'm gathering parts for a junkyard 350 Vortec and Harbor Freight just delivered my stand. Post more inspiration !

[Ticker]

Cool thread

Yep, I always paint the valley as well; I always use Glyptal: http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

I was a little worried about the amount of surface rust in the bores, on the bearing bores, in the crank oil holes. lifter bores and on the heads. The one that worries me more than a bit is the bearing bores, as even a small amount of rust can drastically change the bearing clearances. Did you double-check them with Plastigage?

Also, were the pistons, bearings, etc. installed dry? Couldn't tell from the pics...

As a best practice, once the bores are cleaned and the block is washed all machined surfaces should be sprayed with WD-40. A quick solvent wipe will get rid of it when it's ready for assembly. I typically spray down everything with WD-40 and then clean it where it needs to be during assembly.

[dave2953]

We did check the clearances with plastigauge and all came out well. It wasn't apparent based on the first photo, but I did wipe all of the cylinder bores down with PB prior to installing the pistons. I did pre-oil the piston prior to installing them. I still need to wipe down the lifter bores prior to installing them. I was hoping to get that done today but it may not get done. Thanks for your suggestions! Any other advice you can offer is greatly appreciated!

[Ticker]

Good job checking all the clearances - many builders don't do this, and it's a great last check during assembly to make sure everything worked out. If you've got a mic and bore gauge, great - but if not Plastigage is still a pretty decent way to double, double check.

I personally prefer using a good assembly lube vs. oil - for years I used a 50/50 mix of 30 wt dino oil and GM EOS...but I've been using Lubriplate 105 assembly lube for a long time and recommend it highly. I generally coat everything with this, and put a pretty healthy slather on the pistons especially as they'll undergo a lot of wear during the short break-in. If you oiled the cylinder bores and all the bearings you're OK...but certainly make sure you preoil the engine before start, rotating the engine a couple of times to make sure they're darn wet and have oil pressure immediately available.

On the cam lobes and lifter bases, you need a high-pressure cam lube that may have come with the cam; this is critical if you expect the cam to survive break-in.

I also add a pint of GM EOS for break-in, and with the first 3 oil changes. There are other break-in additives and oils as well from CompCams and others.

Just a note for future builds - the bores come back from the shop with quite a bit of grit embedded in the cylinder walls from the honing process. My approach is to pass paper shop towels coated with WD-40 through the bores until they come out clean. Not doing this can lead to poor cylinder seal...although with modern moly rings it's a lot less likely.

[Ticker]

Hey...just wanted to mention; looking at the timing chain picture the timing marks aren't aligned - may just be way after you did the installation so it doesn't matter...but I thought I better say something just in case

I love engine build threads with lots of pics

[77 350 Shorty Wide]

Good Morning, Maybe I'm looking at it wrong so just checking, isn't that picture of the piston in the hole showing the diamond facing the wrong direction? I thought the diamond faced the front on the block not the back.

God Bless, Terry

[dave2953]

It is...and just after I took that I had to take it back out and turn it around...I was less than thrilled : )

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by Ticker

Hey...just wanted to mention; looking at the timing chain picture the timing marks aren't aligned - may just be way after you did the installation so it doesn't matter...but I thought I better say something just in case

I love engine build threads with lots of pics

Right you are...for whatever reason my dad wanted to set it up there, but it wasn't installed. He has brain cancer and doesn't think as clearly as he used to. I will have to be sure that it's right when it goes on for real. Thanks!

[Ticker]

Thinking good thoughts for you and your Dad - great project to do together!

For the pistons, also remember that the chamfer on the rod faces the outside of the rod journal on the crank; it's there to accomodate the fillet.