Upper Shock Mount

[GeorgeLeonard]

It was a nice day today in New Jersey, so I went outside to check out the 1966 I bought over the winter when I was going out of my mind with boredom. What I found was the left front upper shock mount was pulled completely out of the frame and the right one is "cocked"- at least I think its cocked. I attached a picture of the shock mount taken head on so you can see it. Its supposed to be coming straight out of the frame right? What is the best way to fix this? My initial idea was to slip a piece of pipe over it and try to bend it back. But after thinking about it, I decided that would be a dumb thing to do. What do you guys think? Is this a job for a pro with a welder? Any suggestions would be sincerely appreciated.

[SCOTI]

The shock mounts are angled on the side of the frame (@ least on 63-87's).

[markeb01]

CPP offers this reinforcing kit which may prove helpful:

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...F/6372FSRB.pdf

I know someone makes a new bracket that’s much stronger and uses the original hole to locate a new mounting plate, but I can’t find a link at the moment.

[GeorgeLeonard]

So the upper shock mounts are supposed to be angled coming out of the frame? Im glad I didnt try to straighten it out then. I already ordered two new mounting bolts and reinforcing brackets from CPP but now Im wondering how the reinforcing brackets will work with an angled shock bolt?

Looks as if my bigger problem is going to be what to do with the other side which has been ripped out completely so that all that is left in an oblong hole. How critical will it be to duplicate the angle that the shock mount is supposed to make coming out of the frame?

Does anyone think it might be a good idea to put air bags in between the front coil springs and skip the shocks altogether? I dont have any experience with bagging. Does one still use shocks if you have air bags? I know people use air bags to raise and lower their vehicles but I dont want to do that. Standard height would be just fine with me. If they are a valid alternative, what would be a good source for them? I looked around a little but couldnt find anything to fit 1966 Chevrolet C10 swb stepper.

[GeorgeLeonard]

Just looking at the picture provided by CPP and linked by markeb01. It looks as if the angle is already accounted for in the construction of it. So it seems Ill be alright with the right shock mount. Now, what to do with the left?

[lakeroadster]

George,

You still need shocks if you use air bags. Air bags is really a slang term. Air springs is the correct engineering term.

As for the postioning of the ripped out upper mount, can you get to the back side of the frame? If so you could make a fixture using the "good upper bracket" and lower shock mount that simluates a shock, basically (3) pieces of pipe tack welded together. Then use that fixture to locate the upper mount on the other side.

Make sense?

John

[GeorgeLeonard]

This is a pic of the left side. Nice, huh? I think Im screwed.

[markeb01]

I went back and watched the taped episodes of Trucks TV where they built a 1966 C10. The front suspension they used was the Strong Arm System from Air Ride Technologies. The kit eliminated the original front upper shock mounting stud. It is replaced with an adapter plate that bolts to the frame and requires the use of a shock with a stud style upper mount. It looks tremendously strong.

Unfortunately they don’t show the adapter bracket anywhere on their website that I can find, so I’m not sure if it is still being produced. The piece I’m talking about can be seen on the recently released DVD:

http://www.powerblockswag.com/Trucks...hevyc10dvd.htm

It can also be watched online at Amazon for $1.99 per episode. It may be in this episode, but the preview isn’t long enough to tell. It was in the segment after the frame came back from powder coating. As I said, it could be this episode but I’m not sure:

Amazon.com: Trucks!: Season 2007, Episode 16...

It might be worth calling Ridetech and asking if the style bracket used in the DVD is still available as a separate item, and also confirm if it will work with an original suspension.

http://www.ridetech.com/

If it’s no longer offered, it shouldn’t be too difficult to replicate if you have welding skills, if you can at least see what their adapter looked like.

[GeorgeLeonard]

Thanks Markeb01 for this great reply. I will certainly look into your suggestions. I really appreciate you taking the time to research this as you did. This kind of assistance is hard to come by. I am sincerely grateful for your answer.

[SCOTI]

POL also offers a front shock relocating bracket for the top of the frame. This might fit your needs as well....
http://www.performanceonline.com/196...-KIT-FSMK6372/

[GeorgeLeonard]

That looks good too. Do you think I would need a different and longer shock for this? I guess it goes without saying that I should do this to both sides even though one of my sides is okay as is?
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GeorgeLeonard

That looks good too. Do you think I would need a different and longer shock for this? I guess it goes without saying that I should do this to both sides even though one of my sides is okay as is?
Posted via Mobile Device

Definitely do both sides for consistency. As for shock length, is the truck altered in any manner (lowered @ all; notable spring sag)?

[GeorgeLeonard]

Well, to answer your question, the truck is not modified or altered in any way. There also is no spring sag that I can detect.

But I cant seem to get a break with this problem. Even though these brackets look as though they would be a good fix, I checked out the frame today. While the passenger side looks great and is all clear to install the bracket with no problem at all, the clutch linkage is bolted to the frame on the drivers side where I have the problem. It is located exactly where the upper shock mount should be located. I guess this fix is only suited to cars with automatic transmissions. Too bad too, I thought this might be just what the doctor ordered.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GeorgeLeonard

Well, to answer your question, the truck is not modified or altered in any way. There also is no spring sag that I can detect.

But I cant seem to get a break with this problem. Even though these brackets look as though they would be a good fix, I checked out the frame today. While the passenger side looks great and is all clear to install the bracket with no problem at all, the clutch linkage is bolted to the frame on the drivers side where I have the problem. It is located exactly where the upper shock mount should be located. I guess this fix is only suited to cars with automatic transmissions. Too bad too, I thought this might be just what the doctor ordered.

The bracket should be approx .1875" thick material. I would think that could be sandwiched between the clutch pivot bracket & the frame (I don't have one in front of me to check the amount of possible room to play with).

[GeorgeLeonard]

So that clutch linkage is bolted on and not riveted on? Ill have to check that out. If its riveted on, Im going to start throwing things! It may be a few days before I can get out there. This is what I woke up to this morning. Thanks for the suggestion. Ill get back to you.

[SCOTI]

It's riveted.

[GeorgeLeonard]

So many things on this truck are easy. Just this one thing seems to want to bite me in the ass every chance it gets. It may be time to go to an auto body shop and let them solve this problem. I was trying to get away cheap but it looks as if that ship is getting ready to sail.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GeorgeLeonard

So many things on this truck are easy. Just this one thing seems to want to bite me in the ass every chance it gets. It may be time to go to an auto body shop and let them solve this problem. I was trying to get away cheap but it looks as if that ship is getting ready to sail.
Posted via Mobile Device

Maybe find a board member cutting up a frame & see if you can purchase a 'patch panel' for the shock stud area. Cut out the old messed up opening & have the patch piece welded in.

[Heater63]

George,

Excellent advice from everyone above ^^^^.
I had the same problem on my '63, the upper attach bolt had torn through. The cheap fix is simple. Get the grade 8 washer that fits the shock bolt, I don't remember which size it is, but its a perfect fit, and weld it onto the frame. Then use the CPP upper shock reinforcing kit and you will be good for another 40 years. The kit Scoti showed us would be the best, but also the most $. Hey, at least you have options to pick from now!!

[GeorgeLeonard]

Do you think a simple washer welded to the frame might fix this? Is a grade 8 washer especially thick? Did you weld yours to the inside or outside of the frame? 40 years ought to do it as I am 65 now. Don't know how much driving I'll be doing after 105.

If that will work, I'll be one happy boy! Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

A simple washer might work if the hole was just 'wallowed out' slightly.

The hole in your pic seems to be missing some meat & needs a 3/16" patch. The material could be a thiiiiiick washer or just a piece of round steel. Just remember, it needs to be repaired so the stud is able to achieve the same angle as the opposite side.

[GeorgeLeonard]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Just remember, it needs to be repaired so the stud is able to achieve the same angle as the opposite side.

Hi and thanks for that advice as well. It brings up a point that I was wondering about. Exactly how important is it to replicate that angle precisely? Bear in mind that the previous owner drove the truck with no shock on that side at all. I, myself, drove an F15* from NJ to California with no front shocks- it was bouncey but drivable. This truck will be driven mostly around town for picking up parts and will seldom see a highway. (I live in NJ where everything is close by) It should never be asked to exceed 55mph. And, lets face it, its going to ride like a truck no matter what I do to it.

So how important is that angle, really? I was hoping to set that angle with the reinforcing bracket that I bought from CPP and call it good. In the meantime, would it be better to drive the truck with no shock absorbers in front, one shock on the right side, or just keep it in the driveway and drive something else until this issue gets resolved?

What, if anything, can be done to the springs to lessen the load on the shock absorbers? If they were firmer, would that help? I was thinking of adding those metal things you clamp into the coils and then expand. How would that impact the situation?

Sorry for all the questions, but Im dealing with a rather steep learning curve and its uphill all the way.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by GeorgeLeonard

Hi and thanks for that advice as well. It brings up a point that I was wondering about. Exactly how important is it to replicate that angle precisely? Bear in mind that the previous owner drove the truck with no shock on that side at all. I, myself, drove an F15* from NJ to California with no front shocks- it was bouncey but drivable. This truck will be driven mostly around town for picking up parts and will seldom see a highway. (I live in NJ where everything is close by) It should never be asked to exceed 55mph. And, lets face it, its going to ride like a truck no matter what I do to it.

So how important is that angle, really? I was hoping to set that angle with the reinforcing bracket that I bought from CPP and call it good. In the meantime, would it be better to drive the truck with no shock absorbers in front, one shock on the right side, or just keep it in the driveway and drive something else until this issue gets resolved?

What, if anything, can be done to the springs to lessen the load on the shock absorbers? If they were firmer, would that help? I was thinking of adding those metal things you clamp into the coils and then expand. How would that impact the situation?

Sorry for all the questions, but Im dealing with a rather steep learning curve and its uphill all the way.

In the big picture, the angle prob wouldn't be noticed on an old truck. So, w/that in mind, as long as the position on the frame is similar, you should be good.

Now, if you're like me, the angle being different would fester so much thought in the brain you'd be forced to make it match .

[GeorgeLeonard]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Now, if you're like me, the angle being different would fester so much thought in the brain you'd be forced to make it match.

Fortunately, in this regard at least, I am not like you. As long as she starts and drives relatively well (with nothing too big falling off), Im a happy camper. I guess we all enjoy the hobby in our own way. Hats off to individualism!