Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Tmwoodall · 03-28-2011, 05:25 PM

So I have read lots of thread and pulled bits from each. I have tried a ball joint separator, a c clamp, a BFH, and even a Ball joint press kit. All have given me literally ZERO results. I was able to get the lowers out without too much work, and that made it easier to get to the upper. (I have taken EVERYTHING off).

Hell I even tried heating it up to see if it had some sort of build-up I could burn off in the sleeve, nothing.

I resorted to putting the fork in-between the A-arm and the ball joint and pounding on the spindle with a hi-lift by slamming it into the top as hard as I could. Both sides are the same story, those m-fers are stuck in there.

Anyone have tips to get these out? I was hoping to get my Spindles and A-Arms sandblasted and primed today. Now I'd settle for just getting those ball joints out of the top end.

PanelDeland · 03-28-2011, 05:29 PM

It probably doesn't help at this point,but I always bust loose all the ball joints before I remove the springs.I just leave the nut on a few threads.I have had good luck by having the pressure from the spring while thumping the crap outta it with a BFH.

Tmwoodall · 03-28-2011, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

It probably doesn't help at this point,but I always bust loose all the ball joints before I remove the springs.I just leave the nut on a few threads.I have had good luck by having the pressure from the spring while thumping the crap outta it with a BFH.

I definetly had a session with a BFG while the spring was still in place. I would say I honestly have 20 minutes of straight hammering time on the passenger side.

The driver still has the spring in it, I got too frustrated and had to walk away.

FL71C10 · 03-28-2011, 05:44 PM

Aren't the uppers riveted in? The rivets are out and they are still that tough to get out? Wow, I'm getting ready to do that job soon, I'll have to make sure my little one isn't home so he doesn't learn any new words!

Dark Knight · 03-28-2011, 05:48 PM

I left the castle nut on a couple of threads and used a tiny bottle jack. I don't remember exactly where I placed the jack, but I just put some pressure on it, whacked it once with a BFH and it came right out. I think I put it in between the lower control arm and the little "housing" that the coil spring sits in. It might work for you too.

tcb-1 · 03-28-2011, 07:33 PM

are you trying to separate the ball joints from the a arm, or the spindle from the ball joint?

Tmwoodall · 03-28-2011, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcb-1

are you trying to separate the ball joints from the a arm, or the spindle from the ball joint?

I was trying to get it out of the spindle.

I got fed up and used my cut off wheel, I cut the top cup in half and pried it off. Then rotated it enough that I could cut the lower cup in half. That got it out of the A-Arm so I could work on it easier.

I beat it around with a hammer some more, tried various other methods and then for whatever reason I put the ball fork in there and it pried it right out...

Drivers side seems to be showing the same resistance to breaking free. Might go get a bigger hammer and try again tomorrow.

**chev-obsession** · 03-28-2011, 08:39 PM

There is a you tube video around here some place, but if you loosen the nuts (but not all the way off) you can hit a certain part of the spindle and the ball joints will free. Some are harder to free than others. And if you hit the bottom one first, it helps the top one come off easier.
To get the ball joint free from the a-arm, use an oxy/acetylene torch to cut the rivets off and use an air hammer with a flat blade to get it out. It would be a good idea to invest/borrow a good quality air hammer

03-28-2011, 05:25 PM	#1
Tmwoodall Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 632	Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck So I have read lots of thread and pulled bits from each. I have tried a ball joint separator, a c clamp, a BFH, and even a Ball joint press kit. All have given me literally ZERO results. I was able to get the lowers out without too much work, and that made it easier to get to the upper. (I have taken EVERYTHING off). Hell I even tried heating it up to see if it had some sort of build-up I could burn off in the sleeve, nothing. I resorted to putting the fork in-between the A-arm and the ball joint and pounding on the spindle with a hi-lift by slamming it into the top as hard as I could. Both sides are the same story, those m-fers are stuck in there. Anyone have tips to get these out? I was hoping to get my Spindles and A-Arms sandblasted and primed today. Now I'd settle for just getting those ball joints out of the top end. __________________ www.tomthetruck.blogspot.com <-- Aka build thread.

03-28-2011, 05:29 PM	#2
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck It probably doesn't help at this point,but I always bust loose all the ball joints before I remove the springs.I just leave the nut on a few threads.I have had good luck by having the pressure from the spring while thumping the crap outta it with a BFH. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

03-28-2011, 05:44 PM	#4
FL71C10 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 2,508	Re: Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck Aren't the uppers riveted in? The rivets are out and they are still that tough to get out? Wow, I'm getting ready to do that job soon, I'll have to make sure my little one isn't home so he doesn't learn any new words! __________________ 71 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside. LT1 with 4l60E. Just got back from painter, in assembly now.

03-28-2011, 05:48 PM	#5
Dark Knight Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Pleak, Texas Posts: 420	Re: Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck I left the castle nut on a couple of threads and used a tiny bottle jack. I don't remember exactly where I placed the jack, but I just put some pressure on it, whacked it once with a BFH and it came right out. I think I put it in between the lower control arm and the little "housing" that the coil spring sits in. It might work for you too. __________________ -1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast!

03-28-2011, 07:33 PM	#6
tcb-1 Nothing to see here..... Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Shawnee, KS Posts: 4,625	Re: Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck are you trying to separate the ball joints from the a arm, or the spindle from the ball joint? __________________ Doug THANK YOU to our American Soldiers & Veterans - POW MIA "You will NEVER be forgotten". The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson

03-28-2011, 08:39 PM	#8
chev-obsession Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: kennewick, WA Posts: 1,504	Re: Upper Ball Joints - SERIOUSLY stuck There is a you tube video around here some place, but if you loosen the nuts (but not all the way off) you can hit a certain part of the spindle and the ball joints will free. Some are harder to free than others. And if you hit the bottom one first, it helps the top one come off easier. To get the ball joint free from the a-arm, use an oxy/acetylene torch to cut the rivets off and use an air hammer with a flat blade to get it out. It would be a good idea to invest/borrow a good quality air hammer __________________ 1965 c/10 swb 1969 c/10 lwb



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.