Rust between panels

[Jakes-66-K10]

I'm in the process of converting to a big back window, and wondering if it's worth doing anything to treat the rust that's between the panels. Had I not removed the small window panel, I wouldn't even know the slight surface rust that was there (ignorance is bliss) so wondering if I should even do anything. Since the build I am working on is going for longevity I'd like to take care of anything that may rear its ugly head many years down the road.

How important is this, it's such a thin layer that you can nearly rub it off with your finger... I know that while I have access to this now (here's my chance to fix it) I also realize that every other panel is likely to have this same light rust behind them, but I just don't know about it nor can get to it.

Is it worth fixing before I put the new panel in place? Is it worth dipping the cap to take care of everything between panels that I cannot see?

[Alan's Classic]

If I was doing it, the easiest way would be to scuff off the lose stuff and spray a rust converter on it. I use Permatex brand. It would be a piece of mind. True the rust is between all the panels, but take care of what you can. The rust converter can be bought at car parts place, walmart or hardware store.

[collins10672]

you cut any 60-66 truck apart and they will all be like yours is.they had no rust protection in between panels from factory.when the caulking goes bad in the roof and water gets inside the roof panel thats when rust starts popping through on the inside above the windshield and causes alot of problems.do as alan suggests to treat the surface rust.good luck.

[rbar]

Are you going to weld the roof seem or use panel adhesive? Mine was done with 3M panel adhesive and looks factory. Of course all of the window, door jams, and bottom are spot welded.
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[Jakes-66-K10]

Yeah, I heard that the panel adhesive was the way to go for the top seam. Having trouble finding it though. Found the Permatex "Rust Treatment" at my NAPA in aerosol form (hope it's the right stuff!) but I've hunted high and low for the 3M adhesive. The closest I found was 20 second epoxy which would make placement of the panel a little too rushed for my tastes. Do only body shops carry this stuff?

[Alan's Classic]

Check with your local automotive paint supplier. They supply the body shops. If you didn't know, it's 3M 8515. There are other manufacturers but I don't have any numbers for you.
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[rbar]

..

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

If I was doing it, the easiest way would be to scuff off the lose stuff and spray a rust converter on it. I use Permatex brand. It would be a piece of mind. True the rust is between all the panels, but take care of what you can. The rust converter can be bought at car parts place, walmart or hardware store.

thats what I would do. There are all kinds of converter products that work well. We use a lot of the permatex stuff. Body shop supply houses to. I would expoxy the inside also. post some pics when window finished

[GeorgeLeonard]

Why wouldn't you want to take care of it now while you have access to it? You know it will drive you nuts if you don't.
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[64fleetside]

After I was done w/welding rockers etc; I shot Rust Bullet(a POR15 copy) into the dome lamp hole & sun visor holes using a blow gun, until it ran out the rockers/cab corners. I have no idea if it will help, but feel it cannot hurt.

[Jakes-66-K10]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Check with your local automotive paint supplier. They supply the body shops. If you didn't know, it's 3M 8515. There are other manufacturers but I don't have any numbers for you.
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Alan, thanks! Are you sure that's the number... 8515 is coming up as a respirator on 3M's site? Will be checking auto paint suppliers later today. Thanks everyone for helping!

[64fleetside]

try 08515

[Chevysdominate]

A little bit off topic, but how much trouble was the big back window conversion. I have the back half of my 61 big back window and I'm going to convert my 65 with it. Any advice or tricks?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by vortexofpain

Alan, thanks! Are you sure that's the number... 8515 is coming up as a respirator on 3M's site? Will be checking auto paint suppliers later today. Thanks everyone for helping!

Sorry my bad it's 8115
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[mater63]

i went to the local rust check dealer & bought a gallon to spray my cab while i had it on the rotator oil ran every where turned it up right but i bet it wont rust out since rust check is so thin it creeps into all the nooks & crannies

[rbar]

Dominate, if you can cut spot welds, cut the sheet metal decently, and re-spot weld, it's not that much of a deal. I did the cutting out of the donor cab. Since my truck wa already at the body shop when I made the decision, they put it in. I had about two hours into it and he put 14 hours into it. I would have loved to do it myself, but bad timing to find the donor later.
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[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by mater63

i went to the local rust check dealer & bought a gallon to spray my cab while i had it on the rotator oil ran every where turned it up right but i bet it wont rust out since rust check is so thin it creeps into all the nooks & crannies

I was thinking of doing something similar.
Turn the cab upside down and slosh something around in there so it gets between all the panels.
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