learning curve.. newbie with many questions

[FFredo]

Well I've had my 59 for bit over 2 weeks now.
I have slowly been able to take a inventory of work that needs to be done to make this my daily driver.

First is the rust, although it seems minor compaired to some I've seen I'm a little aprehensive about the order of repair. Do I start with the cab, do I pull the cab? Should I try to find new remanufactured parts or look for patches from a doner truck?

Next is suspension: I don't want to bag this but would like to take about 2 inches all the way around. Again doner parts or do I make what I have work by going at it with fire and hammer?

Steering: Even with the very large 16 inch wheel I am having trouble making turns at slow speeds. IS there a inexpensive option for me, or will I need to pay the big bucks for a after market power steering set up?

Brakes: I want to keep the 6 lug bolt pattern, but also definately wanto to convert the front to discs. Not sure how to go about this. Bolt on kit, graft from newer vehicle??

I consider myself fairly handy with tools and my ability to fabricate parts as needed as long as I'm talking welding, cutting etc. I'm comfortable with the idea of moving the fuel tank back between the frame rails. Welding in new patch panels and what not. My weak points are math, geometry and my inability to make up my mind.
I am not a machinest and I am not tooled up for machine work. I've built a few bikes, but my experiance stops there.

[tmoble]

I'd fix the brakes and steering first. There's several vendors that sell a bolt on disc brake kit, buy one, install it. you can use the original master, but it might need rebuilt.

several vendors offer a power steering setup, some use a Toyota box which might be good as the GM box does not lend itself to this install.

Research the available options, come back here with your best guess and we'll help you sort out the issues, pitfalls, etc. What engine does your truck have in it?

[FFredo]

Originally Posted by tmoble

I'd fix the brakes and steering first. There's several vendors that sell a bolt on disc brake kit, buy one, install it. you can use the original master, but it might need rebuilt.

several vendors offer a power steering setup, some use a Toyota box which might be good as the GM box does not lend itself to this install.

Research the available options, come back here with your best guess and we'll help you sort out the issues, pitfalls, etc. What engine does your truck have in it?

Thanks for the reply Tmoble
It has a 350, stormburg 4 speed and 307:1 posi out of a 72 Jimmy.
I was thinking about changing out to a auto trans but decided that I'll wait on that, money best spent on other truck related fixes.

[dicer]

If your going after rust first, like I am, then the cab needs to come off. Are you repainting etc? I am starting with the cab, it needs the most attention. And as far as repop parts, I'm considering time vs cost of new. So I may do new fenders and doors.
As far as fixing the sheet metal like most here do, I see too many wasted hours, and still have a rusty mess to clean and strip to paint, as well as the straightening etc. Then of course there is the cost of the patch panels for the doors too. The cab needs to be perserved as best as possible as far as rust in hidden areas, like between the inner and out panels. The frame needs attention if you don't want it to rust away.
You don't need disk brakes unless your going to be road racing it. But you will need a dual mastercylinder, less you want to loose the brakes going down a hill. I know someone that did just that, in a 56 1.5 ton chev.

[tmoble]

>> "But you will need a dual mastercylinder, less you want to loose the brakes going down a hill. I know someone that did just that, in a 56 1.5 ton chev."

with disc brakes it did that? I don't see how a dual master would help with that. If he still had the 4 wheel drums he may have just gotten the brakes too hot. Drum brakes fade as the drum gets hotter and expands more. That's the primary reason for the adoption of disc brakes.

I suppose if his fluid level in the stock master was low and he kept pumping the pedal as the drums faded he might have eventually pumped enough out so that it picked up air.

[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by tmoble

>> "But you will need a dual mastercylinder, less you want to loose the brakes going down a hill. I know someone that did just that, in a 56 1.5 ton chev."

with disc brakes it did that? I don't see how a dual master would help with that. If he still had the 4 wheel drums he may have just gotten the brakes too hot. Drum brakes fade as the drum gets hotter and expands more. That's the primary reason for the adoption of disc brakes.

I suppose if his fluid level in the stock master was low and he kept pumping the pedal as the drums faded he might have eventually pumped enough out so that it picked up air.

on a single circuit master cyl, it doesnt matter where the leak happens.. if a leak happens anywhere, say a rear drum wheel cyl for example, then you lose ALL brakes.. the front and rear are not seperate anymore.

you dont have to pump all the fluid out for the brakes not to come on.

[tmoble]

so this guy with 56 buck-and-a-half had a leak? I didn't get that from the post. Of course, it wouldn't be the first time I missed or misunderstood something....

[dicer]

One flex hose broke. Lost all brake pressure of course.

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by FFredo

Well I've had my 59 for bit over 2 weeks now.
I have slowly been able to take a inventory of work that needs to be done to make this my daily driver.

First is the rust, although it seems minor compaired to some I've seen I'm a little aprehensive about the order of repair. Do I start with the cab, do I pull the cab? Should I try to find new remanufactured parts or look for patches from a doner truck?

Next is suspension: I don't want to bag this but would like to take about 2 inches all the way around. Again doner parts or do I make what I have work by going at it with fire and hammer?

Steering: Even with the very large 16 inch wheel I am having trouble making turns at slow speeds. IS there a inexpensive option for me, or will I need to pay the big bucks for a after market power steering set up?

Brakes: I want to keep the 6 lug bolt pattern, but also definately wanto to convert the front to discs. Not sure how to go about this. Bolt on kit, graft from newer vehicle??

I consider myself fairly handy with tools and my ability to fabricate parts as needed as long as I'm talking welding, cutting etc. I'm comfortable with the idea of moving the fuel tank back between the frame rails. Welding in new patch panels and what not. My weak points are math, geometry and my inability to make up my mind.
I am not a machinest and I am not tooled up for machine work. I've built a few bikes, but my experiance stops there.

Congrats on the truck,

Just my 1/50th of a buck on your questions

RUST:
If you want to tackle the rust right off the bat you might want to take a fair bit of time figuring out the true condition of what you have, crawl under it with a bright light and a few tools to poke and prod at the rust. figure out what needs to be done and if it's worth your time to replace the panel or if it just needs a little patch work, when I did mine I originally thought I would be replacing the floor pan and fire wall but once I had a good look it turned out that all I had to do was patch the corners and fix some hillbilly’s backyard repair.... one thing you might want to do is download the LMC catalogue, Lots of good pics of the parts and pieces and it gives you a rough idea of what replacement stuff will cost, but shop around before you buy. You will definitely want to consider taking the truck apart and the cab off. It may seem like a big deal but it's incredibly easy if you have a way to lift it off, do a search on this forum to see how most have done it. Also checking the body with a magnet will tell you if there is some well concealed but crappy bodywork done in the past. I use 3 different strengths to get an rough idea of what I’m dealing with before I dig in, (strong rare earth, med iron base, and a cheap flexible weak magnet) by no means accurate but at least it gives you a clue as to what your body is like.

SUSPENSION:
Fire and hammer on suspension parts is a very bad idea.... very very bad!!! Everyone has heard of someone heating a spring (usually a coil spring) to change the ride height of a car (usually some broke kid with a P.O.S. Honda). I'm not sure if this is what you meant but once you heat the spring enough to make it sag to the height you want you change the spring properties of the metal which will cause fatigue and fractures this could and will cause a catastrophic failure in the future. Again I don’t know if this is what you meant by fire and hammer.
If you’re only looking for a 2" drop there are a few options,

A: drop springs and/or a drop front axle are considered the best option but are pricey and beyond what most are willing to pay.

B: take them to a spring shop and see if they can de-arch them and/ or do a reverse eye on them a good spring shop will know what your best bang for the buck is and might have a few other recommendations such as drop shackles to achieve what you want

C: you can take a leaf or two out which works but I would research which ones to remove and how many before you run into problems.

STEERING:
There are a ton of PS setups out there. The one that I had before I converted to a camaro clip was a CPP set-up. Only about $100 new & uses a GM PS box out of a late 70’s van or a Toyota which you get at a wrecker/ donor.

BRAKES:
Unless you like planning your stops out a block ahead on a long drive and a hot day disc brakes are the way to go, there is a reason why 4 wheel drum brakes are a thing of the past….. Drums suck!!! I’m not sure if there is 6 bolt versions out there but I imagine there is, or at least some way to do it. Most I’ve seen are 5 on 4.75” (camaro/ s-10) but if there’s’ a demand someone will make it… I just don’t know who.

The only real advice I have is to research what you want to do, plan it, make a list and stick to it. Of course most of us don’t take our own advice, I would be months ahead if I didn’t keep changing my mind or keep finding things I have to change. Searching this forum for the answers you are looking for is your best bet, tons of info and experience.

Also have a good look at the wireing, nothing worse than hunting down faults after it's all back together, if it's pretty far gone or a few looms have deteriorated it might be worth looking into a new wireing kit or at least running new wires for the ones that are starting to go. alot of times the wires are the first thing someone hacks up or does less than ideal repairs on.


BTW: pictures, pictures, pictures.... take tons as you take stuff apart and post a few every once and a while,

[FFredo]

Thanks 55; all good info.
First when I say fire and hammer I mean the ability to work on older trucks and bikes. In other words I have seen where some might take 3-4 hrs to take the bolts off the bed to redo the wood work. ME, I'll cut out the bolts and buy a nes set. Cuting with fire and or hammer. Same thing with frame riviets, Cut them out and replace with good hardwear. I won't be "that guy" that heated his coils to achieve a drop in suspension. I'm no engineer but I figure that they are deisigned that way for a reason.
I'll definately take a lot of pics, if not I'll spend hours trying to figure out what the drivers door won't go on the passengers side

[OrrieG]

Decide if you want to do incremental improvements and drive it or the full deal. Nothing is more frustrating than getting you rig apart then finding time and/or money are a premium and it never seems like it will get back together. I speak from experience, I started mine in 1999 thinking it would be a simple rust fix. I then decided to go ahead and freshen up the frame. I than sat until 2007 because of starting a business and other committments. Now it is stalled because of cashflow. Get a realistic idea of the time and cost. I'd start with brakes, suspension and steering because they are all related and once you get the parts can go quickly. Body work can be done incrementially unless its major cowl, floors, etc. Also do not forget about considering rewiring, shame to loose your truck because of $500 and a weeks worth of evening and a weekend of work. Good luck and get some photos up.

[55metalmonkey]

I assumed you meant using the "old hot wrench" since you can obviously work with metal but figured I would put the question out there,

OrrieG is right
...mine was just going to be a quick get-r-done and get it on the road project, but then i started with " well since I have it this far I should fix this... oh and that... and that .... and ect
then " hey the front frame has a small crack well I could weld that up but..... Camaro clip + axle flip new interior ect ect ect.

it started out as a resto but when I came to the conclusion it wasn't the best candidate for it it turned into a resto-mod.