Brake pedal not touching stop after master cyl swap

[OJ1988]

I've been working on a ton of stuff including swaping to disc brakes.
Truck is a 1969, had manual drum brakes.
I purchesed a new master cyl for a 1975 truck with manual disc brake. After bench bleeding I installed it. Used pushrod that came with new one and hooked it up to the brake pedal.

I had to push the pedal about 1" to get the pushrod to reach.

This of course makes the brake lights stay on. I can probably adjust the switch, but I wanted to know if this is ok?

The pedal sirs lower than the clutch now, it is almost flush with the has pedal.

Should I use the 69 pushrod? I think it got tossed but it seemed like it was quite a bit different than the one that came with the 75
Posted via Mobile Device

[OJ1988]

Posted via Mobile Device

[Longhorn Man]

power brakes has a lower pedal and needs less stroke to work.
its supposed to be like that.

[OJ1988]

Thanks for the help, but I did not add power brakes. No booster.
As stated, I purchased a new master cylinder for a 1975 truck c/10 2wd with manual disc brakes.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Autoblueprint]

Your brake pedal travel is way too much.

Rule of thumb is brake pedal travel is no more than 1/8th of an inch.

Your pushrod needs to be adjusted so that the pedal has the proper amount of travel.

If you can't adjust the new rod you have, reinstall the old one and try to adjust it.

Failing that, you may have to contact a brake speciality outfit like MP BRAKES:
http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/overview.cfm

[Longhorn Man]

my bad... thought i saw power listed in there.
Why not get a 71/72 master that bolts right on, is dirt cheap, and shouldnt need mods?

[OJ1988]

Thanks guys.
It's not free travel range like in that pic, basically, the pedal had to be pushed down 1" before the pushrod could even reach the pedal for attachment.

As for getting a 71-72 master cyl, I was not aware of that option. I got the a arms and such off a later model, so I bought all the new brake hardware to match that year.

I'm guessing the case here is that the 73 and up body simply used a shorter pushrod than the 67-72.
So with that said, I wonder if I would still have sufficent pedal travel for the brakes to function properly?
I have not bleed the system yet, and the truck is not quite ready for movement in order to test them.

Does anyone know if the brake line size at the master cyl is the same on the 71-72 and and the 75?
I will look into that, thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[chad64chevy]

we need to make your pushrod longer or but the old one back in and chevk it again! you don't want the pedal to be all the way in the floor just to stop! longer pushrod and you dont have to touch the brake light! there is different ways to make it longer if you have pictures it would be better for me to help!

[fastwillie 696969]

viagra

[OJ1988]

Originally Posted by fastwillie 696969

viagra

Really? Thanks for the insite
Posted via Mobile Device

[Willys47]

Originally Posted by fastwillie 696969

viagra

by his sig fastwillie 696969 this must be the be all end all

[OJ1988]

Okay, update.

The master cylinder is actually a 1872 c 10 manual disk master cylinder. The pyshrod us too short. I bought an adjustable one from cpp and it is shorter than the one that cane with the master cylinder. None of the master cylinders at the parts store have pushrods now for some reason.

I can't remove the one from the new one now either, it appears to be locked in.
Anyone know where you can get pushrods?
What's needed to go ro a power booster and master? Will they come with a pushrod?

Need help!
Posted via Mobile Device

[GuyO]

Is it possible the master cylinder isn't returning after depressed? The push rods will come out, with persuation. But you may consider going to power brakes. It is a simple conversion, the booster and MC comes complete and I would grab the push rod and switch too while at the junk yard. You already know a great deal if you bench bled the master cylinder. I had the opposite problem and had to shorten my new rod with my big brake booster. Power brakes are a great feature and kind of a must if anyone other than you drives your truck! G.

[OJ1988]

Master cylinder is returning, pushrod is just to short. I removed the master cylinder, pit it in a vice and still can not remove the pushrod.
Ordered another adjustable one that should be longer, but I guess I will take the master back to the parts store and try and exchange it.

May go to power later, haven't even added ps either, but no one else will be driving the truck.
Posted via Mobile Device

[OJ1988]

The longer adjustable rod is shorter then the one that came with the new master cyl. It's Aldo the same as the one listed for a 1969. I have not found pushrods avalible seperatlg other than the 2 adjustable ones I already bought.
Looks like I need to cut the end off the pushrod and thread it to add the end piece off the adjustable rod.

Has anyone else swapped to a non power disc setup?
Posted via Mobile Device