04-29-2011, 02:29 PM | #1 |
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2" block and u bolts
Where's the cheapest place to get 2" block and u bolts? I'm getting a high altitude nose bleed in my swb.
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04-29-2011, 02:39 PM | #2 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
I got mine from way2lo2, check the vendors marketplace.
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04-29-2011, 06:24 PM | #3 |
low n' slo
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
i got mine from a board member...ive seen cpp with some cheap ones too.
what size wheels are you running? on my stock 15's with 2" blocks the u bolts are reall close to going below the scrub line. which is why im looking to trade my set for a 1.5" set. if your going bigger, than you should be ok.
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04-30-2011, 12:15 AM | #4 | |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Quote:
I also tested one of the first sets of PB T/A's & found they offered better clearance w/more drop.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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05-01-2011, 12:27 AM | #5 | |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Quote:
I made my own out of 2x3 square tubing. Got the u bolts from a semi truck shop, they made them while I waited. Total cost came out to be 38 bucks. I would recommend buying them if you don't have the tools to make your own though, it would be horrible trying to drill them with a hand drill! Posted via Mobile Device
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05-01-2011, 01:08 PM | #6 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Where on earth are you guys finding a 3/4" drill bit thats not costing more than the ubolts and blocks from a vendor?!!? I have a drill press etc but my bits only go to 1/2"!
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
05-01-2011, 02:05 PM | #7 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
You use what is called an S&D (Silver and Deming) drill, they have 1/2 shank and go all the way up to 1-1/2"
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05-01-2011, 02:10 PM | #8 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Ah I see...
Ive heard people say they've done it with a 'step bit' (ive see @ lowes before also..)
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
05-01-2011, 05:10 PM | #9 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
I just made mine .. and I'm gonna run 15" rims.. I will make a guard that will look like the nose of a ski, and weld to the bolt bottom..
if I loose a tire at speed it'll slide on the ski.. no need for bigger rims.. |
05-01-2011, 05:32 PM | #10 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Howd you drill your holes stich?
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
05-01-2011, 06:12 PM | #11 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
1" bit.. lowes.. 17.39
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05-01-2011, 06:24 PM | #12 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
1" wasnt TOO big of a bit?...
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
05-01-2011, 06:49 PM | #13 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
well a 13/16th would've been better, I drilled the blocks at first with 3/4" bit and hoped the u bolts might squeak through.. no dice.. the u bolts are 3/4"
the holes in the blocks make no difference as the mount on the axle tube and then into the long arm and then the shock mount. nothings gonna move.. |
05-01-2011, 07:07 PM | #14 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Uhmm.... That doesn't sound very safe for everyone else on the road beside you. The safety of others on the road is more important than your truck looking cool.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
05-01-2011, 08:11 PM | #15 | |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Quote:
at speed the truck sliding down the road on it's rim , or a metal plate formed into a ski so the u bolt doesn't dig into the ground is safe.. well as safe as a tire failure can be.. as it'll 1) save the rim 2) keep the parts from being ripped out by digging into the ground. and will allow you to brake and stop , uneventfully.. this is safer than try'n to ride a rim to a stop, as you brake the tire that LET GO is now not spinning and not tossing rubber and steel at OTHERS ON THE ROAD.. riding the rim to a stop the failed tire is falling apart tossing steel and rubber at others.. but if you think it's unsafe, Last edited by stich626; 05-01-2011 at 08:13 PM. |
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05-01-2011, 08:50 PM | #16 |
low n' slo
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
do you have any pics of this plate you welded on?
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05-01-2011, 09:41 PM | #17 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
haven't got that far, it's gonna be .25" and shaped like a nose of a ski..
only got the stuff bolted together today. did this on a lowered t/a and it works.. lost that tire at 127.mph Last edited by stich626; 05-01-2011 at 09:43 PM. |
05-01-2011, 09:42 PM | #18 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
It sounded good to me, my blowout was nasty.. lol
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
05-02-2011, 01:16 AM | #19 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
that's about the dumbest load of crap I've read on here in a very long time ... half-ass fixes are still half-ass
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05-02-2011, 02:13 AM | #20 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
I don't think your ski will hold up very well there bud, I would like to see some pics too If and when you decide to do this...
P.S. Stich, do you race on tracks? Posted via Mobile Device
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05-02-2011, 09:24 AM | #21 | |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
Quote:
it is going to be a D/D and to shane.. I've seen more axle failures than tire failures.. so half assed in your eyes or not.. EVEN IF I CHANGE THE BLOCKS OUT down the road.. I will add the skis again... axle failure, I'll not be pick up my long arms and rear end from all over the track.. it'll still be on the truck and it will not have dug in to the track and spun the truck into the 1) wall or 2) the other lane.. as I don't want to find out then ,if the drum or disc brake backing plate is going to keep that side axle from the track/ground.. drumbacking plate "might" IF it fails at the starting line.. disc backing plate.. no f way.. and your "above the shrub line u bolt just dig into the ground/track and only spun you, if your lucky,, if not, you're bouncing off a wall or the x max tree or someone elses car..(on the road it be multi cars) if not a little ride on thy roof.. yup half a ss ed all the way.. cause lets face it only tires fail, not axles or rims , right shane Last edited by stich626; 05-02-2011 at 09:30 AM. |
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05-02-2011, 01:53 PM | #22 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
to knowingly do something that is unsafe is half-assed and just plain stupid. especially when there are methods to achieve the same outcome in a safe manner.
sorry, but that's my opinion and if you don't like it ... well ... that's your shortcoming, not mine. Last edited by Shane; 05-02-2011 at 01:54 PM. |
05-02-2011, 07:28 PM | #23 |
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Re: 2" block and u bolts
I work in logic
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