Electric Bugs - Please Point me in the right direction

[83burban]

I went to install my new tach cluster into my 83 yesterday and ran into some problems with the electrical bugs.

1) I installed a new headlight switch since my old one was causing the dash lights to flicker constantly. Now when I pull it it 1 notch out - for just park lights - it will turn on the headlights as well. Pushing the high-beam floor switch will only activate the let high-beam bulb (they are both working).

2) The new cluster came with a 100 psi oil pressure gauge - the old one was a 60 psi. Do I need a 100 psi sender as well (when the engine runs the gauge will act like its still a 60 psi unit (pegs to 100 and then drops to 50 when warm - the old one pegged to 60 and dropped to 30 when warm).

3) When I pull the headlight switch all the way out, both the small fuel gauge and the oil pressure gauge suddenly stop receiving signals (they both act like they aren't working but when I turn off the headlight switch they return to normal)

What I am thinking is that since the old cluster had indicator lights for seat-belt, choke, and parking brake and I didn't remove the those pins from the connector the signals are going to the gauges? I matched all the gauges to the appropriate connectors and since it was a later 80's cluster it should be plug and play I thought.

Any direction guys? I will re-do the pins to make sure that isn't affecting anything but I am not sure about why the new headlight switch cause the gauges to stop working when pulled out or why my hazards and turn signals suddenly blew when I turned on the headlights.

[old Rusty C10]

you may have better success posting this in electrical.... let me know via PM if youd like this moved

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by 83burban

I went to install my new tach cluster into my 83 yesterday and ran into some problems with the electrical bugs.

1) I installed a new headlight switch since my old one was causing the dash lights to flicker constantly. Now when I pull it it 1 notch out - for just park lights - it will turn on the headlights as well. Pushing the high-beam floor switch will only activate the let high-beam bulb (they are both working).

2) The new cluster came with a 100 psi oil pressure gauge - the old one was a 60 psi. Do I need a 100 psi sender as well (when the engine runs the gauge will act like its still a 60 psi unit (pegs to 100 and then drops to 50 when warm - the old one pegged to 60 and dropped to 30 when warm).

3) When I pull the headlight switch all the way out, both the small fuel gauge and the oil pressure gauge suddenly stop receiving signals (they both act like they aren't working but when I turn off the headlight switch they return to normal)

What I am thinking is that since the old cluster had indicator lights for seat-belt, choke, and parking brake and I didn't remove the those pins from the connector the signals are going to the gauges? I matched all the gauges to the appropriate connectors and since it was a later 80's cluster it should be plug and play I thought.

Any direction guys? I will re-do the pins to make sure that isn't affecting anything but I am not sure about why the new headlight switch cause the gauges to stop working when pulled out or why my hazards and turn signals suddenly blew when I turned on the headlights.

First things first, what are you changing? U say u got a 83 cluster ? has tach option? If so, you will need a tach circuit board on the back.

[[[EDIT: U NEED TO USE CORRECT YEARS WHEN SWAPPING FROM NON TAC TO TACH OR GUAGES TO NON GUAGES EXC EXC....

As far as head lights go, thru personal experiecne ive found these trucks headlight switches vary dramatically within years....u need to grab several switches from the junkyard and use a voltage tester before installing to insure u dont go burning ne thing up.....kragen/napa/autozone replacements do not always offer perfect replacements....(and with the cost of copper going up and up products are no longer made "how they used too" so an older switch may still out last a new switch) I own a 75 and its happy with an 80 switch, even tho they use a different harness (USED VOLTAGE TESTER)

The high beam switch doing things it shouldn't means possibly 3 things, a headlight is not grounded, a relay is bad, or u have the wrong headlight switch......judging on how u said u are having "flickering", prob a bad ground or bad connection.... solution: check all points, clean with 200+ sandpaper, nolox the joint (or similar product) and connect firmly....

chevy LOVED to double 18g wires to act as 1 larger guage wire, this as u will c when u tear into is awful.. i totally rewired mine, on relays.... worth the time! now if theres a problem, i know how it works and what the problem may be.... no check wires or trouble lights to try n find and map out....

good luck!

[83burban]

after re-doing some wiring and re-pinning the connector everything is working great. I still have to figure out why neither of the turn signal indicator lamps will flash and figure out if the oil gauge needs a special sender for the 100 pis ones or not - but other than that everything is working great.

Its nice to have a tach spike and watch the vacuum gauge plummet when you gun it haha