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Old 05-22-2011, 05:12 PM   #1
Isanti Lawn Man
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1972 Chevy C10 - Battery Dead

I need some advice.........I just have my 72 C10 all complete, however the battery keeps draining when the truck sits for more then 3-4 days. The entire electrical is completely stock, I have a brand new alternator and brand new batter which has helped, however it keeps going dead within a week. This did not happen until I gutted the inside of the cab for it to be painted. Ever since, it consistently drains the battery. I looked at all the internal wiring and it looks fine with exception of two green wires coming off the back of the ignition switch. I cant see where these two wires should go, however they are both open wires. I took a light to them, and they do not show a draw when the key is off or on.

Any suggestions???
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:57 PM   #2
Pondscum
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Re: 1972 Chevy C10 - Battery Dead

I wish i could help more but my truck was doing the same thing and i found it was the horn relay. but you best bet would be use a test light or DVOM to find your voltage drain.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:05 PM   #3
gonnuts
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Re: 1972 Chevy C10 - Battery Dead

Mine was doing that too, it was the alt. If your truck still has an external reg. try unplugging the plastic plug on the alt. & see if your reg. clicks, if it clicks every time you plug & unplug the alt. your alt. is bad. At least that's what mine was.
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:20 PM   #4
DaBigKahuna
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Re: 1972 Chevy C10 - Battery Dead

disconnect the ground cable and pull the fuses for anything that's a constant hot. The tap the ground cable to the post on the battery and see if it sparks. If it does, keep pulling fuses until it stops sparking when you tap. The last fuse that you pulled will be the one with the short so start trouble shooting there
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:35 PM   #5
CaptRMW
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Re: 1972 Chevy C10 - Battery Dead

As DaBigKahuna said remove the GROUND cable from the battery but connect a test light from the battery post to a ground and when you disconnect the source of the draw on the battery the light will go out. Jumper cables will allow you to put the test light in the cab to pull fuses and still be able to see the light.
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