Houston, we have a problem...

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

So on my 72 chevelle I went full led (via autozone's "jammer leds") combined with an eletronic flasher relay so it will 1) flash consistently and 2) not give the classic "burnt bulb error"

OKAY....

So on my 75 step, it is as follows: stop/turn lamps are in the same housing, same bulb, so they are 2way bulbs... rear markers are a single 180degree red leds (via superbrightleds.com), and the front markers are quad amber leds (autozone again)...all markers are the 194 blade style....

THE PROBLEM:: So when i go to put in the final set of leds, ((the front turn signals,)) when i put in am led bulb, IT DOES NOT BLINK, AND GIVES BURNT BULB SIGNAL.....but works proper /w/ standard filament bulbs,,,,,

I bought 2 round socket led's from superbrightleds.com (for front turns) and it did as described, figured, eah, whats 4 bucks??.... went to autozone today, bought 2 jamsters round socket type leds and same thing... burnt bulb signal and no blink, yet runners work.

Ive gone over it several times in my head, i have schematics however everything is working correctly, no breaks, all within resistance specs, ive done/tried everything!!!!

i come to you guys as a last option, I have no idea what to do.

THANKS!!!

[jitteryguy]

did you change the flasher on the truck ? I would try the heavy duty flasher thats used when hook'n up trailer light's.

[N2TRUX]

You need an electronic flasher module. If you have one, then its bad.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by jitteryguy

did you change the flasher on the truck ? I would try the heavy duty flasher thats used when hook'n up trailer light's.

Yes, its an electric (not thermal) relay flasher.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You need an electronic flasher module. If you have one, then its bad.

Thats what I thought, how ever I use 2 electronic relay flashers, one for signals and one for hazards, i swapped them and they did the same damned thing!!

[makman1297]

Maybe you have a bad connection in one of the sockets, is the spring loaded contact pad clean and working. I have had problems with them sticking down so one bulb would work and the next one wouldnt.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

HoKay,

So the front marker lights are only getting 9.89V....
The front passenger side turn signal has a clipped wire. It is the black 3rd off to the side wire, that reads "18B-151B" on the wiring schematic included.....

It is to my understanding that the turn signals and marker lights ARE NOT in series, they are paralleled at the splices 9 and 15.

So 18B-151B should run a ground off the passenger headlight, witch then runs a ground at 18B-151A as well as 12B-151C.... correct???

3rd pic: pinky finger is touching blue and brown to signal, and pointer finger is pinching blue and brown to marker bulb.

EDIT: so can this improper ground be the reason for inadequate voltage?? of do u think i have a poor connection to blue and brown that feeds...well u know what it feeds sense ive said it 4 times now.
THANKS ALL!!

[makman1297]

None of your lights should be in series. If you only have 9 volts at the bulb and you battery has 12/13 then you need to start there and determine where the problem is. I believe led's are more sensetive to their voltage. Your clipped black wire is proubably the ground and your problem, hook it up and see if it solves the problem. Where did you connect you meter to for the voltage check.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by makman1297

None of your lights should be in series. If you only have 9 volts at the bulb and you battery has 12/13 then you need to start there and determine where the problem is. I believe led's are more sensetive to their voltage. Your clipped black wire is proubably the ground and your problem, hook it up and see if it solves the problem. Where did you connect you meter to for the voltage check.

yes the leds are more sensitive, they will run at anything from aprox 6-14v dc... when i insert a standard bulb into the housing the filament hardly glows...

I inserted my tester into both prongs where the 194 bulb (side marker) usually slides into, and now sense i did that it makes me wonder what i messed up giving they should both be hot's.....

okay, so i ran that black that was clipped to ground, and now that side (passenger side) will not work unless it is connected, so im guessing it was near breaking, and when i removed the housing it let go. so it WAS grounded......i think...

THE NEW PROBLEM: with standard bulbs now I have no drivers side blinking/signaling, when i turn on the lights via headlight switch my dash gives burnt bulb signal to drivers side, yet all bulbs are illuminated.. so im guessing when i tested it i shorted something some where....

I have been studying these schematics and come to the conclusion that there are 3 wires..... blue blue and brown....

BROWN-controls both sides's running lights.
BLUE- controls right signal
BLUE-controls left signal

However i cant trace the wires past the firewall junction block.... id love to rewire her, but i wanna start fresh and not do half the job.....

CONCLUSION: my relays must want more resistance, even tho that dosent make sense because everything works all led, until i put in leds in the front signals.... then the problems start....
so i tried keeping everything led, but inserting standard bulbs into the markers(194's) (for some resistance/load)... and STILL the relays did not cycle... uggghhh so in theory that makes no sense at all, why would everything once work fine with all led, (minus the front turns) and as soon as i put in the front leds they will not work?? not enough load?? (remember i tried putting in standard 194's) the schematics say the side markers and turns are just spliced, 1 wire feeds all running lights, 1 wire feeds them to blink.... so me adding a standard bulb into the side marker lights, WILL be the same as putting a standard into the front signal's..... sense its all on the same feed....

I know this is all confusing without being able to see it yourself.... but giving the fact that the front side markers WILL NOT light up with standard bulbs, (only slightly glow) means there HAS to be a break/poor connection in the system...

wtf was chevy thinking, going thru the headlight switch for this and that, doubling back wires here and there... check lights and warning lights..... such a simple system made to complicated.

[makman1297]

The funny thing about those side marker lights is that they really dont have a ground. They have one wire to the running lights wire and one to the front turn signal wire. So with no lights on they flash with the turn signal (the running light wire acts as a ground). With the lights on they are a steady on (the turn signal acts as a ground throught the filliment) , and when the turn signal is used with the lights on they blink opposite of the turn signals (when the turn signal is out the filiament again is the ground). Even still they should get the 12 volts when they are illiumintated.

Wait, you said it works except the side marker lights, perhaps the led do not allow the ground signal throught the turn signal bulb to let the side marker work.

Hope this helps.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

So i found the issue, one of the factory slices were bad, i went thru it all from firewall forward and everything worked perfect.... except the leds....come to find out the relay I was using had a min. load requirement....

So i went and got some line load levelers and bam! works perfect, except they get hot as hell!!!! I had to wire them to the ground of the front turn signals, and the blue "blink" wire on both sides....

I plan to buy one of these http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...=/flashers.htm to fix that issue here pretty soon!!

Thanks to all your responses!!!

[makman1297]

Glad you got, old wiring can be very frustrating.