looking to buy an AD Need Advice

[gulffishin]

Hey Guys,

I recently sold my 64, and I have the bug (the build bug that is) . I am currently looking for an AD either gmc or chevrolet, and I was wondering if there are any particular rust spots, or irreplaceable parts that would be a deal breaker when looking for one of these trucks. And if there is any particular series or year that is more or less desirable than the others.

thanks for any help

[duwem]

Few options I considered:

You can get a Chevy or a GMC. I like the chevy styling so thats what I got, there are more Chevys out there so there are more parts.

You can get a 3 or 5 window cab. I think the bubble corner windows dont look good so I got a 3 window. The 5 windows are more desirable.

You can get a 3 on the tree or a 4 speed. Mine came with a 4, sucks for riding 3 wide, but thats what it had. First gear is stump puller gear so its really only a 3 for any driving.

I like the single piece side windows without vents. Mine had vents, but I got a second set of doors without them I will put on.

Depending on whether you want to keep it stock or not may depend on what other things like the different styles of shocks, etc.

My truck was updated with a pressure lube 235. Upgrade over the original engine which was not pressure lube.

The 54's has the different front grill and a single piece windshield. Some people take the earlier grill/sheet metal and put them on the 54 cab, which looks nice together.

There are A TON of afermarket parts for these trucks which makes them a great choice to work on.

[gulffishin]

Thanks for the info! There is someone selling a 3 window 47 thriftmaster locally. I am thinking of looking at it sometime between now and Sunday, if I go look at it I'll post pics for you all to critique.

Also, I know the 63-66's had trouble with rust around the drip rail; a part not offered aftermarket. Are there any areas on these trucks that can not be repaired through a catalog?

[mr48chev]

Almost every part of the trucks has been reproduced somewhere including whole cabs if you are inclined to go that way.

I'd have to first say don't pay a lot extra for things that you aren't planning on using. A fully rebuilt stock six is great if you are buying the truck to restore to showroom original but is something you will have to try to sell if you are planning on putting a V8 in the truck from the start. Paying many $$$$ extra for that may not be prudent though unless the rest of the truck is so perfect that it makes it worth it. The same for wheels, tires and everything else that you most likely don't intend to use.

As far as rust. The floorboards especially on the drivers side and the kick panels are one area to check.
The cab corners commonly rust out but replacements are fairly inexpensive. Also check the area around the lower door hinges and the bottom of the front of the cab. Another area is the seam around the back of the cab on the belt line where the roof joins the back. That seam also is a rust item and is probably the hardest thing to deal with if it is real rusty.

Check the frame for rust damage and more for bad modifications. I've bought several AD trucks over the years that had real butcher jobs done on the frames to install engines wouldn't fit otherwise. Welded on brackets for rear bumpers or trailer hitches don't really count as they can be cut off and cleaned up.

Three or five window cabs are personal preference for most of us and add in which is available at the time we are looking for a truck. Original transmission only counts if you are going to keep the truck stock and one doesn't add or detract from the value of the truck but for a restored truck I'd think the three speed might be a bit more desirable then the Granny shift 4 speed. The main thing is get the best cab and frame you can get if you intend to use the original frame. If you are intending to restore the truck to original get the most complete truck you can find wiith original pieces on it. If you are going to put a V8 and automatic in it the condition of the original engine and trans isn't an issue.

[gulffishin]

Thanks for all the help, I plan to keep the original engine and drivetrain if it is salvageable; if not, I will probably go the 350 SBC 700R4 transmission combo. I will most likely update the brakes, suspension, steering, and wheels so their condition isn't too awfully important.

[duwem]

I plan to change almost everything on my truck, but driving it in stock form (assuming its safe) is fun too. Been driving mine all summer with the 235 and 4 speed. Rebuild the bushing in the rear suspension since there were complete shot, but other than that it has just been minor tweaks and adjusments.

Does 60mph now.

[gulffishin]

Originally Posted by duwem

I plan to change almost everything on my truck, but driving it in stock form (assuming its safe) is fun too. Been driving mine all summer with the 235 and 4 speed. Rebuild the bushing in the rear suspension since there were complete shot, but other than that it has just been minor tweaks and adjusments.

Does 60mph now.

Ha, yeah, I drove my 64 stock the whole time I had it. It was fun sometimes, sometimes not so fun; like muscling those manual drum brakes and mechanical clutch in stop and go traffic or having the shifter linkage stick in 2nd or 3rd gear at a red light.

[skip99]

if you want to chop one, keep in mind that doors changed 51? to vented, so pre 51 doors will be easier to work with, and 52 was the first pushbutton door handle? just differences...

my wife wanted chopped with no vent windows AND push button handles, so what year do you think we got? LOL !! a 51 ! it had none of what she wanted. so... check the build..

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Personality I have had enough experience with pull down door handles and I really like the vent window look. Therefore my choice would be a 52 or 53.

[Dan Bowles]

Get one of each.

[gulffishin]

Originally Posted by Dan Bowles

Get one of each.

Ha ha, I'll probably need 1 of each to put together a complete 1