67 short step , what to do?

[doosekoop]

Ok here is the deal , there are just so many options available i think my head may explode!
I decided that even though this is all over the forum im gonna just ask for suggestions
on which way i should go. For starters i have acquired a 67 shortbed stepside 6cyl 3spd
column w no power steer or brakes.

I want power discs , power steering , 4/5 drop , i have a 350 / 350 and i know i will
need to find a taller rear or go with an overdrive.

options available for a poor guy on a budget! ive read the conversion chart but it says
nothing about using 73 to 87 power steering box with 67 crossmember / a-arms / 73-87
spindles , rotors , calipers , cross joints. does the idler bolt up in the same place
as 67 ? 6 lug or 5 lug ?

just want to get the right setup without braking the bank. I would love to buy all
new stuff from the aftermarket but finances prevent that so im lookin for a used beater
for parts or a parting truck.

this is where im starting from! what should i do??

[IMG][/IMG]

[lolife99]

Have you read any of this?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4

[SCOTI]

While I regularly promote the use of 73 & later front end parts for this conversion, a 'used' beater from 1987 as a disc swap candidate is still 24yrs old & most likely in need of rebuild. You'll still need to plan on rebuilding items where necessary.

[doosekoop]

so to get this right , 73-87 chevy truck spindles , ball joints , trailing arms , steering and pitman arms , power steering box w/column , calipers W / 1 1/2 rotors, power master cyl w prop valve , retain crossmember , upper and lower a arms. which springs are better or does it matter? plus replace any worn parts as well as new ball joints.

[N2TRUX]

Just so you know, the entire crossmember can be swapped as an assembly. If you are planning on an engine and transmission swap as you mentioned, it might be easier to buy the 73-87 parts as a complete assembly or even buy a donor truck.

Keep in mind, that same assembly went all the way to 91 on the Burbs. Most of the trucks you find might be pretty rough if you are buying them cheap. It's not uncommon to find a well cared for Burb that can offer you great value for a complete donor package.

It's all a matter of time, space, needs, and of course how much $$$ you have to spend.

[doosekoop]

Just picked up the front of a 79 1/2 ton hd 5 lug w/power steering , tilt column and booster / master cyl. Plus i got the seat although the color aint nice but the seat is perfect so a nice little cover should cure that!

Now for the question of the month! I have a 78 malibu wagon im gonna scrap but after some research ive found it has the 1 1/8 bore size the same as the pickup bore but has a small diameter booster. Would this be a viable swap instead of using the truck booster and just keeping the trucks prop valve???

let the progress commence , i hope!

[bowtie72]

Man I have been thinking of letting my 4x4 Blazer go for a step side. Looking at yours really tells me that would make a awesome daily driver. Good luck with it

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by doosekoop

Just picked up the front of a 79 1/2 ton hd 5 lug w/power steering , tilt column and booster / master cyl. Plus i got the seat although the color aint nice but the seat is perfect so a nice little cover should cure that!

Now for the question of the month! I have a 78 malibu wagon im gonna scrap but after some research ive found it has the 1 1/8 bore size the same as the pickup bore but has a small diameter booster. Would this be a viable swap instead of using the truck booster and just keeping the trucks prop valve???

let the progress commence , i hope!

You can use the dual diaphram booster. The prop valve ratios & master cyl bore size are what dictates fluid capacity. The vac booster just 'amplifies' the amount of pressure from the leverage of the pedal.

[doosekoop]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You can use the dual diaphram booster. The prop valve ratios & master cyl bore size are what dictates fluid capacity. The vac booster just 'amplifies' the amount of pressure from the leverage of the pedal.

ill have to weigh the pros n cons of the 75 pb / ms vs the wagons one. thanks!


Next queary : 6 lug or 5 , which is more practical ? i have the new front with discs thats 5 on 5, 5 lug , the rear is 6 lug and i can swap rotors for the front relatively cheap but i may find the need to get a new rear. It has a 6 with a 3 speed so i figure its low geared and unless i can come up with an overdrive tranny ill need to replace it with taller gears. with all the wheels out there for toyotas and such wouldnt the 6 lug be a better choice?? opinions??

more to come im sure and there are pics to come soon too!

[SCOTI]

I prefer 5-lug set-ups. I'd swap a set of replacement axles & a set of 71-72 drums to the rear end to match the front disc conversion. Add some 5-lug OE steelies (plain or ralleys) to keep it budget friendly.

[doosekoop]

well ive got the new crossmember installed and all went well but the steering box needs the dimple not present on the 67 frame.
Question? my welding skills are fine , what is the better route to address this , spacers or weld in a notch ? Ive always been told you should not weld on a frame but i see a lot of welding frames going on around here. if welding really isnt an issue i could add the dimples for the stock brake line routing as well. just thought id get some ideas / suggestions from the experts here.

I am really glad i found this site because as i go if i have a question i can usually find the answer somewhere around here , Awesome bunch here

[doosekoop]

Update:
ive installed the new crossmember and am in the process of installing the 305 / 350 temporary drivetrain and found a little issue with the motor mounts. Im not sure but i think i read that the six cylinder motor mounts are different then the small block ones. The mounts that came with my crossmember are a little tall since the 74 frame is about 2 inches taller then the 67. I was unaware of this fact when i started but it shouldnt be much of an issue. i can go for 67- 72 mounts or just cut and shorten the newer ones. Could someone give me the measurement between the crossmember and the oil pan so i can see whch end to shorten??

i welded in a notch for the steering and it looks pretty good so im happy with that part anyway!! I suppose i should start a build thread pretty soon while im so gung ho and the doldrums havent got me yet ! pics coming soon :-)

[SCOTI]

The small straight six mounts will work for a small V8 (I would try those first). You can put them in either set of holes on the top of the frame rails. If you use the 'front' holes, it allows easier access to manipulate the distributor which is almost required if you intend to run the physically larger HEI.