Rust, rust go away...

[FFredo]

A cpl of quick pics of some of the rust cut out on my 59.
unfortunately I dont have a budget for all of the patch panels I need. I do have a welder and sheet metal. Here's my shade tree attempt at rust removal and replacement. Ignore the schmeer of body filler on the weld seams. Wife thought she was helping, I love her. I've chipped that out and replaced with real seam sealer.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Fredo,
Looks good. What I always wonder about when I see those gnarly looking "Before" pictures is how do you KNOW when you've cut out all the rot? Seems like an inch away from the edge is just rot in an earlier stage!

Also, what do all you guys do on the BACKSIDE? I mean inaccessible places. I've seen Eastwood has stuff to spray inside frame rails, but are most guys doing that? DOes it even work? Or are you just leaving it be? I know rust inside will come out again eventually...but maybe "eventually" is like 20-30 years and in my case I'll be 76-86 years old, so who cares?!! lol

Fredo, what's next? Grind smooth, seam seal (what kind are you using?) or is it even necessary since you butt welded, didn't you? Then prime and move on to another area?

[FFredo]

Hey Dan, as far as how do I know when I got enough cut out? Thruth is I'm going with a calculated guess. I cut back untill I can see good steel, I have drilled holes to look for good steel and also ground away 'till I see good steel. Then I use "Rust Mort" by brushing it on. Where I cant get a brush I used a rag soaked in it while wearing rubber gloves to try to get it into all of the nooks and crannies. I am trying to do a good job with my limited knowledge and ability. I guess we'll see how it goes. I should finish welding up the pass side today after work, then off to Pomona tomorow to look for a few parts. I'm looking specificly for a gas tank to place in the frame rails and a good drivers side hood hinge.
Sunday the fenders go back on so I can place and cut in the lower patches. I need to get the truck back into driving condition. Then I can take my time over the summer making other changes like the auto trans and lowering by removing a cpl of springs off each corner.
Truck will probably spend the next year in primer.

PS: Over 100 views on this thread and very little coments. I figure I'm either messing this up so bad no one wants to hurt my feelings or I'm doing such a great job I have intimidated every one into silence. If I was a betting man I'd bet it's the former not the latter.

[NICK51]

ON your welds put down some US Chem All metal body filler.. I did it on my welds worked great

[Dan in Pasadena]

What's the advantage of that filler over conventional filler?

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

What's the advantage of that filler over conventional filler?

they use aluminum filler instead of talc, also it is a fair bit harder vs standard body filler and less prone to crack or delaminate with vibration. it's generaly used to replace lead seam welding. pricey stuff but it works good if used correctly.

[NICK51]

Dan,

Here is what I've done on my truck.. I figured it I'm going to spend the money and time to do it right.

1. Sandblast (Aluminum Oxide Now)
2. Weld Thru Primer
3. Weld
4. Grind and Smooth Weld
5. Cover Weld with All Metal (Waterproof, rustproof, etc.)
6. Cover with Evercoat Rage
7. Primer
8. Paint
9. Clearcoat
.. I think if you do that it will last another 50 years
Also All metal can be tapped, drilled, etc.

I've used it quite a bit..