Holley Carb.

[eightbanger]

First off I know nothing about carburetor's it's a 3310 750 cfm, so I was hoping someone could help identify whats what in these pics.
This is exactly how the carb has been since I bought the truck, I have no idea why the piece of rigid white wire is on there in th first pic....or what it is supposed to be doing, and what the small lever with the broken spring is in the second pic.

[hayhauler71]

the rigid wire is holding the choke open because there is no choke cable installed the broken spring looks like the fast idle cam spring

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

the rigid wire is holding the choke open because there is no choke cable installed the broken spring looks like the fast idle cam spring

Thanks hayhauler, so does that mean i'm driving around with the choke on all the time?
A better pic ot that lever you called the idle cam....

[Rooster's 67]

nope its wired completely open(no choke)

[eightbanger]

So what should I do for cold starts, get rid of that wire and fit an electric choke like this one..?

[hatred]

You could run a choke cable from the carb to inside the cab. My 67 had one, my 70 does not.

[68Stepbed]

Nigel, you can either adapt an electric choke or just simply add a manual choke cable.

As for the fast idle cam spring, it's not broken, it's just not in the right place. That long straight piece should be sitting in the area circled below.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Nigel, you can either adapt an electric choke or just simply add a manual choke cable.

As for the fast idle cam spring, it's not broken, it's just not in the right place. That long straight piece should be sitting in the area circled below.

Thanks Matt, I've got it all sitting on the table in front of me so I'm gonna work on that spring now, I still don't get my choke setup or lack of, are we saying that at the moment I don't have a working choke? if so, why would the PO or whoever have wired the choke open? I mean, what should be there instead of a piece of wire? I realize I can get a manual choke for inside the cab or an electric choke which I like best, but the other mystery to me is how have I been able to start my truck in the winter? if I've not had a choke, when it's cold I've been climbing in stabbing the gas pedal once to the floor then starting up, believing that all this time I've been doing that procedure I was kicking on some auto choke deal....which I don't have.

[eurospec1]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

Thanks Matt, I've got it all sitting on the table in front of me so I'm gonna work on that spring now, I still don't get my choke setup or lack of, are we saying that at the moment I don't have a working choke? if so, why would the PO or whoever have wired the choke open? I mean, what should be there instead of a piece of wire? I realize I can get a manual choke for inside the cab or an electric choke which I like best, but the other mystery to me is how have I been able to start my truck in the winter? if I've not had a choke, when it's cold I've been climbing in stabbing the gas pedal once to the floor then starting up, believing that all this time I've been doing that procedure I was kicking on some auto choke deal....which I don't have.

If it starts right up every time in the cold, then you don't need a choke, they are not a neccesity, if it aint broke, dont fix it

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by eurospec1

If it starts right up every time in the cold, then you don't need a choke, they are not a neccesity, if it aint broke, dont fix it

I agree with that euro, but that DIY piece of wire is bugging me more so now because i'm in the process of a rebuild and polish up, and I would love to know what should be there, basicaly I want to buy the part/parts from Holley to make it like they intended for non choke.

Matt i've pushed that end of the spring through where you suggested and it found a small grove to rest in...see 1st pic, but the end with the hook has got nowhere to hook onto....see last pic.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

If it starts up & drives without a choke, the mixture is too rich. That is typical of Holley carbs. If you want better gas mileage & longer engine life you need to calibrate the carb. That looks like an original equipment carb, probably from a Ford. It has the fixed secondary metering plate.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

It has the fixed secondary metering plate.

It does WB, is that a good or bad thing?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Its OK for normal driving. If it was high performance you would want to be able to change jets in the secondary.

[Tx Firefighter]

Some of the aftermarket 3310s had metering plates rather than blocks originally. It just depends on the vintage and calibration of the carburetor

[GASoline71]

All 3310's come off the shelf with a secondary fixed metering plate (4160 style). You can get a kit for a secondary metering block to turn it into a 4150 style carb with replaceable secondary jets. Just like in the primary metering block.

Holley's don't run rich all the time. Common misconception. They are actualy tuned fairly mild right out of the box. If it's on a small block that's pushing below 350hp and doesn't see any RPM's... it's too big for the engine.

If you don't want the choke you can remove it all together. I have removed the chokes out of every single 3310 I have ever used. But if you like better starts on cold mornings in a daily driven truck. You might wanna install an electric choke. Or just run a choke cable from the cab.

Gary

[Jacfourteen]

The Holley carb that was on my engine had the choke completely removed and I thought it would better to have a choke so I changed to the carb another carb with an electric choke. Now I'm thinking of going back to no choke because it has been nothing but a headache, same exact carb/jetting everything and I can't get it to run as good as when I had no choke. Basically I'm agreeing with what was said above, if it aint broke dont fix it. If the wire is bugging you easiest thing to do is strip everything off that is choke related. If you want it to be how holley intended it for non choke you just take off all the choke parts then cut/mill off the whole choke tower, look up a picture of a holley HP carb and you will see what I'm talking about.

[Jacfourteen]

also forgot to mention you should pm prostreet-c10, he is a holley carb builder/tuner/seller by trade and he knows holleys.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Its OK for normal driving. If it was high performance you would want to be able to change jets in the secondary.

Gotcha! it's fine the way it is then...thanks Wb.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Some of the aftermarket 3310s had metering plates rather than blocks originally. It just depends on the vintage and calibration of the carburetor

Thanks Tx

Originally Posted by GASoline71

All 3310's come off the shelf with a secondary fixed metering plate (4160 style). You can get a kit for a secondary metering block to turn it into a 4150 style carb with replaceable secondary jets. Just like in the primary metering block.

Holley's don't run rich all the time. Common misconception. They are actualy tuned fairly mild right out of the box. If it's on a small block that's pushing below 350hp and doesn't see any RPM's... it's too big for the engine.

If you don't want the choke you can remove it all together. I have removed the chokes out of every single 3310 I have ever used. But if you like better starts on cold mornings in a daily driven truck. You might wanna install an electric choke. Or just run a choke cable from the cab.

Gary

Thanks Gary
Yeah it's a 454 so no probs there, I read some stuff on removing the choke tonight on a couple of forums and tech pages, usually done in more warmer climates they said, but having a choke in my case would be a benefit and the electric route is the way to go for me.
Next up is the rebuild kit for my 3310 model 4160 Holley, they make three...

Fast Kit pt#...37-1542 / Renew Kit pt#...37-754 / Trick Kit pt#...37-933

So I've opted for the Renew Kit....the Trick Kit has to many performance upgrades in it that I won't use so that would be a waste of dough, and the Fast Kit has a couple of things not included in it that I would like to replace.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by Jacfourteen

The Holley carb that was on my engine had the choke completely removed and I thought it would better to have a choke so I changed to the carb another carb with an electric choke. Now I'm thinking of going back to no choke because it has been nothing but a headache, same exact carb/jetting everything and I can't get it to run as good as when I had no choke. Basically I'm agreeing with what was said above, if it aint broke dont fix it. If the wire is bugging you easiest thing to do is strip everything off that is choke related. If you want it to be how holley intended it for non choke you just take off all the choke parts then cut/mill off the whole choke tower, look up a picture of a holley HP carb and you will see what I'm talking about.

I'll hang onto my piece of wire then incase the electric choke gives me trouble, I forgot about prostreet..thanks for reminding me, cheers Jac.

[prostreetC-10]

Ah.....love the Holley threads! Just to clear up a few things:

The original 3310 aka 3310-1 was an original carb that came on the 65 396 Z-16 Chevelle. It actually was rated at 780 cfm and is the only 3310 that came with downleg boosters AND the rear metering block. There was a problem with the original carb which is why Holley made literall thousands of service replacement carbs for those cars.

The first "aftermarket" 3310 was a 3310-2 and had straight leg boosters along with a 750 cfm rating and ONLY came with a metering plate. If someone out there as a metering block on theirs, it was added by a previous owner. I think one of the best deals out there on a performance carb is the original 3310 with the downleg boosters. The boosters are down farther in the high velocity part of the venturi for quicker start up of the main circuit.

The second pic of the fast idle assembly is correct. That hook on the end of the wire serves no purpose and connects to nothing. Guessing it's like a bead rolled into a body panel.....just for strength. You have it right. Guys will wire the choke open only because the back part of the choke linkage is spring loaded to help the choke close with the cable. If you hit a good bump in the road, they can send the choke on and scream your idle, actually sticking your fuel supply open. This is only if a choke cable is not connected. The coat hanger trick eleminates that from happening.

I HATE electric chokes because they are a PITA to tune (at least the Holley ones). I love to control my rpms maunally so I don't go inside and come out to my truck revving too high. The cable is the only thing that sucks about them. You also need to make sure and get the correct one and that is determined by if the carb has a internal or external fresh air supply. As I sit here, I can't remember what your 750 had because most of the stuff I work on it chokeless. Hope this helps.

[GASoline71]

I live in WA state where it can be 10 degrees or 100 degrees. I don't mind pumpin' the gas a few times and feathering the throttle on startup. Then hold a little RPM to keep 'er runnin' till it's warm enough to idle.

I hate chokes. Manual or electric.

Gary

[prostreetC-10]

Guys don't get on Gary because he is from Washington. I hear he is one of only 7 people in that state that know how to drive. LMAO

Gary.....you know it's true!!!

[GASoline71]

Oh... it's true all right!

Gary

[Jacfourteen]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I live in WA state where it can be 10 degrees or 100 degrees. I don't mind pumpin' the gas a few times and feathering the throttle on startup. Then hold a little RPM to keep 'er runnin' till it's warm enough to idle.

I hate chokes. Manual or electric.

Gary

This is where I'm starting to lean, I thought having a choke would make life easier but so far its just been a pita.
Posted via Mobile Device

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

Hope this helps.

It helped a ton mate thank you, I will take another look at whether or not I should go the choke route, and listning to Jacfourteen who is having nightmares with his.
It's true it does start reasonably well after I give the pedal a quick jab to the floor on cold days so it is a valid argument to say if it ain't broke.....It's not just that ugly wire, It does bother me sitting on the drive waiting till it would warm up, and thought an electric choke would give me that modern car benefit of starting up and driving off kinda thing....maybe not.

Thanks guys for all the input.
And heres how my Holley looks now after it's clean up