In need of help on my 63

[vgnope]

YouTube - ‪1963 chevy truck...

So here's my truck.. 63 C10 long bed. 283 with air gap intake,600 cfm carb,HEI ignition, th350 trans..it has been a build for me but the not starting issue is frustrating..Sometimes th truck will start right up, but lately it's been harder to start..ugh..
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[markeb01]

You’ll probably need to provide more details before much help can be offered in diagnosing the starting problem. What are the symptoms? Does it not start when cold, or hot? Does it crank and not fire, or not crank at all? Does it crank real hard when hot like there is too much timing dialed in? The more specifics you can offer the better the responses you’ll receive.

[vgnope]

The timing is in tune because there will be times that when I turn it over, there will be no hesitation on starting up..it will fire up at the bump of the key.. Then, there will be times that when turning the key, hot or cold eng temp, it will keep cranking over and have a rough start..holding down th throttle struggling to stay on like it's flooded..then there will be times that it will not start at all until I hook up jumpers and and when turning over it sounds as if there is way more power to the starter, starting it up..I guess that's the cranking real hard part..
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[kieth]

Basics:

1. Check battery cables, are they clean, tight, not correded......
2. Check the main ground cable , make sure it is clean and tight to the frame and the engine...
3. Batttery have it load tested

4. If all of this is good then it is probably carb adjustment, is it a manual choke or electric.......what do you do with the accelorator when you start it. how cold is it, is it harder to start when warm or cold. all of this helps to get to the cause of the hard starting. Kieth

[vgnope]

I take th batt in to get load tested, it's only 2weeks old tho..800 crank amp 1000 cold ..also, th batt cable has to be hooked to frame?? Currently it's connected to an intake bolt.. But would it be a problem cause the intake is alm?? The bolt is grade 8 steel..the carb, is elec choke.. Accelorator wise, I can bump th key at times and it starts.. Only when it doesn't start, Ill give it gas..I'll pump th throttle once to avoid flooding and backfire..
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[oldblue1968chevy]

sounds like my truck sorta, sometimes it starts great sometimes it takes a lil while and runs really rich/flooded/pufffs black smoke..

wtf

[vgnope]

Same here.. Th black smoke is Eco friendly.. Been thinking about gettin a hybrid decal on my truck.. It's just really depressing when I'm at th pump and hear somebody say nice truck.. Then I go to start it and it doesn't fire up right away..ugh..
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[66redw/white]

try replacing your coil. or borrow one from a different truck. if the coil is going bad theres no spark headed to your distributor

[turbostar]

One small suggestion:I always like to insure good grounds throughout the system. I would run another ground strap/battery cable between the engine and the chassis. That way anything on the engine or the chassis will see the same ground. What you have grounding to the intake should be no problem,I would just add the chassis ground also.May not solve your problem,but I think it is good practice.

[vgnope]

Oh how I love a good project..imma get a new coil and ECM , add additional ground to chassis and see where it takes me..
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[markeb01]

Another thing to check is the choke setting. It may be set too rich which will cause it to flood on restarts. With the engine cold, block the throttle open to free the choke linkage, and remove the air cleaner so you can see what's going on. Make a note (with a felt marker or piece of masking tape) where the Bakelite choke housing is currently oriented. Loosen the retaining screws around the perimeter of the choke housing and rotate the housing until the choke plate opens. Then close it only enough to barely close completely. This should be a satisfactory setting for the warm climate where you live. Now you can compare the new position to the original location, which should let you know if you leaned it out or not. If the thermostat spring in the housing is applying too much pressure, it will require much more engine heat to get the choke open soon enough.

[kieth]

Get away from the alum intake, it is not a great conductor of electricity. attach it to the steel of the block and the frame. Kieth

[aerotruk63]

You also need a ground from the cab to the engine as well as a ground from the frame to the pickup box for your tail lights to work properly. Try giving your ignition switch a twist to make sure it's grounding properly as well. My 62 had bad contact at the battery posts. Make sure the terminals are clean.

[turbostar]

Kieth,I disagree about alum being a good conductor,but that really does not enter into the picture,as he has a direct path for current through the steel bolt to the iron head.

[markeb01]

I remember reading somewhere the battery should always be grounded to the iron engine block, and never to an aluminum manifold or transmission because of potential electrolysis corrosion. Of course I'm not sure what you're suppose to do if you have an aluminum engine!

[Greshampiglet]

Check the chip in the HEI

[vgnope]

So... I got home, 2 seconds into turning th key, it fired up.. Then I adjusted th choke and air fuel mixture screws..fired up again, engine hot now.. Checked my ground wires, positive wires.. Good looking.. Tried to fire up again.......nothin, jus cranking.. Hooked th jumpers to it and no start...still cranking..so I rewired th ground directly to th block on exhaust manifold bolt, and added another wire to th frame..no start still..so tomorrow I'm gettin a new coil and ecm..
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[Captainfab]

I agree......it is commonly known as the ignition module.

Originally Posted by Greshampiglet

Check the chip in the HEI

[turbostar]

Exhaust manifold bolt is not a good location for ground strap. The heat generated at that location will increase the resistance in the cable(not good). Pick another location that will not get hot from exhaust heat conduction.

[vgnope]

Will do.. Also I think when I pick up th new ECM and coil, I'll go with accel brand parts.. I'll prob get new plugs too, I'll make the switch from champion I'm running now to ngk..
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[Frizzle Fry]

HEIs need at least a 12g power wire. The factory points ign wire is insufficient and can actually cause your module to fail. Here's a write up -> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=17403

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[vgnope]

Sorta relieved..switched back th ground wire to intake, checked wire connects.. Installed new ECM accel hi-per.. Also added an ignition condensor, seen that I needed one..plugged it all up, turned key and she fired right up..I did a series of start ups with a few high throttles..so we will see th real outcome tomorrow on th trip to th ol store..
Hey thanks for th help guys I really appreciate th replys..
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