Floor replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jacquesdean · 04-02-2003, 12:20 AM

I'd like to see some proper floor replacement pictures. Some people over lap and weld, others butt to butt . Which is proper way for " Truely restored trucks " Should the joint not be visible after welding , grinding.

Would appreciate your input.

minibike · 04-02-2003, 12:39 AM

I am partial to the butt weld, since there are no cavities that can rust, and it can be ground perfectly smooth where the repair is really difficult to see.

**StingRay** · 04-02-2003, 12:56 AM

Here's one of a butt joint.

**StingRay** · 04-02-2003, 12:58 AM

Floor all done

jacquesdean · 04-02-2003, 01:52 AM

Thanks Stingray,

appreciate you taking the time to send pics, greatly appreciated.

gmc-rob · 04-02-2003, 10:59 AM

Nice work stingRay, what year truck is that?

gr8scott51 · 04-02-2003, 01:55 PM

I wish mine looked that good. I'm not a welder, so I paid good money to have it done. Nobody ever does what you want done as well as you want it done. Nice work!!

Low68 · 04-02-2003, 03:17 PM

Here are a couple pics of when I did mine. I use the butt-joining method, and I don't think I would do it the other way. Partly because of the way it would look, but also because I know that it would be so much easier and I would think that I just didn't have the ability to do the butt joints.(not meant to be a rag on anyone who uses the layover method) I am not a very good welder, and these pictures look better than real, but it gives you an idea.
Low68

Low68 · 04-02-2003, 03:19 PM

Here is a picture of what it looked like on the bottom of the cab. I had my cab off(obviously) so it made it a whole lot easier to do. Good luck.
Low68

Blue Beard · 04-02-2003, 06:36 PM

Nice work, did you dip the cab?

special70gmc · 04-02-2003, 07:41 PM

heres the non-proper way. you compair this cab is total junk (unfixible rust all over) so i just wanted to make it driveable till i jet a new one later any ways heres a pic.

ps. it was PITA LOL -kyle

Eddie H. · 04-02-2003, 09:21 PM

I prefer a butt weld, A lap joint could allow moisture to get under
it and rust out again.

Low68 · 04-02-2003, 09:25 PM

Blue Beard, is that question for me? If so, no. I had it sandblasted.

Hey Eddie H., is what kind of welder is that? I think I have used one of those in my welding class. The one I used was stinking slow. Is that? Thanks
Low68

Eddie H. · 04-02-2003, 09:32 PM

I'm using a Henrob 2000 Torch in that picture. I really like it. It's mainly designed for aircraft metal work, but you can weld nearly anything with it: Steel, Stainless steel, aluminum, cast iron, or even thin sheet metal.

Eddie H. · 04-02-2003, 10:06 PM

Here's a picture of the floor repair from a different angle.

Blue Beard · 04-02-2003, 11:00 PM

eddie:

you wouldn't happen to have a website for Henrob would you?

Eddie H. · 04-03-2003, 08:01 PM

See if this link works:
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/

ZOOMY · 04-04-2003, 02:51 AM

Is that 1/16" copper coated mild steel rod you're using with that Henrob outfit ? It doesn't look like you're using any kind of heat sink to minimize distortion. I used to use a "O" oxy/acet tip with the pressure set very low (just high enough to prevent popping) and still used to get some distortion. Does this unit eliminate that ????......Thanks.....Zoomy

Eddie H. · 04-04-2003, 11:13 PM

I'm using 3/16 inch mild steel rod in that pic, but 1/16 works better for thin sheet metal.
The Henrob operates at only 4 psi on the gas and 02 so you get a soft concentrated flame that is hotter and much more controllable than with a conventional type of torch. You can still get some distortion if you stay in one place too long, but with a little practice, you can make some really clean welds.
I've had good results with it so far.

Ck out their website for some online demos and more info:
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/

04-02-2003, 12:20 AM	#1
jacquesdean Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Snead, Alabama Posts: 399	??? Floor replacement ??? I'd like to see some proper floor replacement pictures. Some people over lap and weld, others butt to butt . Which is proper way for " Truely restored trucks " Should the joint not be visible after welding , grinding. Would appreciate your input. __________________ Jock, Powder blasting shop, Alabama Last edited by jacquesdean; 04-02-2003 at 12:27 AM.

04-02-2003, 12:39 AM	#2
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	I am partial to the butt weld, since there are no cavities that can rust, and it can be ground perfectly smooth where the repair is really difficult to see. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

04-02-2003, 12:56 AM	#3
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	Here's one of a butt joint. Attached Images __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

04-02-2003, 12:58 AM	#4
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	Floor all done Attached Images __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

04-02-2003, 01:52 AM	#5
jacquesdean Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Snead, Alabama Posts: 399	floor repairs Thanks Stingray, appreciate you taking the time to send pics, greatly appreciated. __________________ Jock, Powder blasting shop, Alabama

04-02-2003, 10:59 AM	#6
gmc-rob Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Saskatoon,SK Canada Posts: 41	Nice work stingRay, what year truck is that?

04-02-2003, 01:55 PM	#7
gr8scott51 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 1,839	I wish mine looked that good. I'm not a welder, so I paid good money to have it done. Nobody ever does what you want done as well as you want it done. Nice work!! __________________ Silence is golden, duct tape is silver. - Scott

04-02-2003, 03:17 PM	#8
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Here are a couple pics of when I did mine. I use the butt-joining method, and I don't think I would do it the other way. Partly because of the way it would look, but also because I know that it would be so much easier and I would think that I just didn't have the ability to do the butt joints.(not meant to be a rag on anyone who uses the layover method) I am not a very good welder, and these pictures look better than real, but it gives you an idea. Low68 Attached Images __________________ Build Thread

04-02-2003, 03:19 PM	#9
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Here is a picture of what it looked like on the bottom of the cab. I had my cab off(obviously) so it made it a whole lot easier to do. Good luck. Low68 Attached Images __________________ Build Thread

04-02-2003, 06:36 PM	#10
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Nice work, did you dip the cab? __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

04-02-2003, 07:41 PM	#11
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	heres the non-proper way. you compair this cab is total junk (unfixible rust all over) so i just wanted to make it driveable till i jet a new one later any ways heres a pic. ps. it was PITA LOL -kyle Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-02-2003, 09:21 PM	#12
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	I prefer a butt weld, A lap joint could allow moisture to get under it and rust out again. Attached Images __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"

04-02-2003, 09:25 PM	#13
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Blue Beard, is that question for me? If so, no. I had it sandblasted. Hey Eddie H., is what kind of welder is that? I think I have used one of those in my welding class. The one I used was stinking slow. Is that? Thanks Low68 __________________ Build Thread

04-02-2003, 09:32 PM	#14
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	I'm using a Henrob 2000 Torch in that picture. I really like it. It's mainly designed for aircraft metal work, but you can weld nearly anything with it: Steel, Stainless steel, aluminum, cast iron, or even thin sheet metal. __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"

04-02-2003, 10:06 PM	#15
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	Here's a picture of the floor repair from a different angle. Attached Images __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"



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04-02-2003, 11:00 PM	#16
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	eddie: you wouldn't happen to have a website for Henrob would you? __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

04-03-2003, 08:01 PM	#17
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	See if this link works: http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/ __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"

04-04-2003, 02:51 AM	#18
ZOOMY Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WIS Posts: 1,752	rod Is that 1/16" copper coated mild steel rod you're using with that Henrob outfit ? It doesn't look like you're using any kind of heat sink to minimize distortion. I used to use a "O" oxy/acet tip with the pressure set very low (just high enough to prevent popping) and still used to get some distortion. Does this unit eliminate that ????......Thanks.....Zoomy

04-04-2003, 11:13 PM	#19
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	I'm using 3/16 inch mild steel rod in that pic, but 1/16 works better for thin sheet metal. The Henrob operates at only 4 psi on the gas and 02 so you get a soft concentrated flame that is hotter and much more controllable than with a conventional type of torch. You can still get some distortion if you stay in one place too long, but with a little practice, you can make some really clean welds. I've had good results with it so far. Ck out their website for some online demos and more info: http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/ __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution" Last edited by Eddie H.; 04-04-2003 at 11:22 PM.

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