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04-02-2003, 07:14 PM | #1 |
*Proud Member*
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 741
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Doors... Power Guts in Manual door? 81-87 style...
i have a pair of 81-87 style doors for my project... the one is/was power, so its fine... but the other was a manual setup... are their any differences/problems w/ putting the manual guts into the door shell?
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04-03-2003, 01:24 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 9
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I just did the exact same thing on my work truck.
I had two doors with power windows and door locks, one door was OK and the other was beat up pretty bad. I took all the parts from the electric door, lubricated the heck out of the regulator with Tri Flow lubricant and put them in the original door that used to be manual windows. Make sure you lubricate the rollers and pivot points on both window regulators. You will also need to use a hole saw (1" I think) to drill a large hole in the door jam (if you are changing over your truck to electric windows.) and on the door itself for the wires. I was able to get the entire wiring harness and such from the same truck that had the doors. There is a rubber tube of sorts with metal plates on each end that goes between the door jam and the door, I recommend you use this to protect the wires as the door is opened and closed. You probably will have to go to the dealer to get a new one as I have not seen any online yet. I will tell you that those window motors on the older vehicles really draw a few amps. Make sure you run a new fused 8 or 10 guage wire directly from the battery to make sure you have enough juice. Also I had to replace one of the motors and found the best price at Kragens $75.00. Mine were out of a '77 and I put them into my '80 with no problem. Make sure the drains in the door are working or you will short the motor when the door gets water in it. The motor sits almost on the bottom of the door. I found they work better and smoother after you put new window felts in. It took me less than a day to do everything. The hard part is getting the wiring harness through the stock holes in the cab over to the door jam. Use a heavy long cable tie taped to the wire to help fish the booger through. That's my 2.5 cents worth. Rainbird Last edited by Rainbird; 04-03-2003 at 01:38 AM. |
04-03-2003, 01:32 AM | #3 |
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THANK YOU!!! i've been waitin' for this reply... acutually i've torn apart 7 different doors, and stripped four down to bare metal... so i have my share of parts layin' 'round... but, thanks very much for takin' the time to reply.... hopefully this weekend i'll have some doors on my ride
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04-03-2003, 01:33 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Oh brother!
I did not read your post close enough! Yes you can go from electric to manual, just use all the parts from the old door. They will bolt right up. I will leave the electric door stuff up for anyone who has considered the upgrade to electric doors. Rainbird |
04-03-2003, 11:53 AM | #5 |
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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hehe.... acutally, ... i'm crazy! i am putting power guts in a manual shell.... but it'll work as you've described!
(i have no idea what i was thinkin'! ) |
04-03-2003, 04:44 PM | #6 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Yep not a problem on the 81-87 years. Anxiously awaiting pics..
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
04-03-2003, 05:23 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
~Rod |
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