50 Chevy Truck Steering Column Help

[rollenhard]

Hey guys i just bought a 50 Chevy Truck with Mustang II Independent Front Suspension and i was thinking of keeping the stock steering column.
What mods do i need to do to keep the stock steering column
Thanks

[mr48chev]

I've never done this one but it will take some work and probably the help of a machinist to do it right

The best way would be to cut the tube and shaft off just above the steering box and then slide the shaft out of the tube so you can cut the tube to the desired length That would be so that approximately 3 inches of the shaft would protrude through the firewall on the engine side Then you can put the shaft back in and set it up so that you have enough shaft sticking out the bottom of the tube so that you can attach a U joint to it

If I could get a joint that set up for a keyway and had the shaft keyed that would be the simple way to connect them. I don't like welded pieces on steering shafts.
Another option would be to take the shaft out of a later model GM steering column that had a bottom end that would connect to a common street rod style U joint.

I'd have to dig in the junk in the shed to figure that one out though.

[bo21]

Check out daverods build thread on page 16 or 17 it shows how he did it.

[rollenhard]

thanks for the help i will have to check out daverods build.I thought there would be a kit you can buy to cap off the end of the column.If i go with a tilt what length is right for these trucks? is 33" a good length
Thanks

[mr48chev]

No kit as most guys just replace the column. I'd check out that other thread and see how he did it.

[rollenhard]

Thanks mr48chev

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

No kit as most guys just replace the column. I'd check out that other thread and see how he did it.

It starts with post 395 and continues on the next page.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...448842&page=16

I'd suggest taking the tube and bearng to a muffler shop and having the tube expanded a bit to fit the bearing though. Heat on the bearing will cause premature failure. Also get a sealed bearing with seals on both sides.

I said it above but if it were me I'd have a keyway cut in the shaft and then use a keyed Ujoint.

[chevytroy]

hey check out cpp classic preformance product they carry a retro fit for the columns. you remove the bearing at the end of the column tube cuthe tube to length then you cut the inner shaft to what is needed grind two flat spots to accept a universal insert new baering from kit tighten allen key holes and your finished. very basic tools sawzall grinder tape measure masking tape marker allen keys.

[salvo]

There use to be a kit called "Save a Column" or something like that. I also remember seeing a kit somewhere else after I did mine, maybe CPP?
I built mine by turning a piece of Delron for the bushing. You can see pictures of it by clicking on my sig line below. There is a thrust washer that sits in the face of the bushing against the lock collar, right before the top u-joint (I forgot to take a picture of the thrust washer)
Also you need to fab a mounting plate to hold the steering column to the floor board/fire wall. I did mine with a welded on plate to the column on the cab side so that its easy to pull the column by just disconnecting the top u-joint, the two bolts in the plate and the two bolts in the column support at the bottom of the dash board.
Be sure to drill recesses in your steering shaft top & bottom to accept the u-joint locking bolt and lock nut, I also used blue lock-tight on the threads.

[rollenhard]

Thanks for all the help guys u led me in the right direction

[Russell Ashley]

I used the "column saver" kit from CPP to shorten the column on my 57. It's a little pricey at $70 but is a neat piece. I purchased mine through Tucker's but it came from CPP.

[rockettruck]

I realize that the OP has his problem with the open original steering column solved, but since many of the '60s (and '70s) GM columns have the same diameter lower tube, wouldn't it be pretty simple to cut off the lower (bearing) portion of the later column and slip over the old shaft.? You could then weld the old tube to the later lower portion that holds the bearing.

Of course, you would have to cut the column tubes square and then clamp both pieces in a piece of angle iron to hold them in line as you weld them. You would also need to keep the welding heat away from the bearing.

I haven't tried this yet but I plan to in the near future... FWIW...

Rockettruck...

[big_b]

how about turning a brass or bronze bushing that is grease-able and pressing it into the bottom of the tube?

[big_b]

i just bought a double d u-joint i could get the part number if needed.

[Dan Bowles]

I used a couple of collars, a spring, and a turned down aluminum bushing with a rivet in the side to hold it in place. Milled the shaft down to accept the double-D and connected it to an S10 box.

You can get a bearing for the end via Classic Parts I'm pretty sure.

[99 to Life]

I just bought a bearing at Fastenal and put it in the bottom of my stock 51' column, also did the same for the top. I'd recommend that over the overpriced bearings they sell for these columns.

The u joints are up to you. You can go to the junk yard and find something off of a GM that would work and or buy brand new expensive ones. I am using the s-10 frame with SBC and headers, so my app is different, but same concept as you will need to cut your steering tube and make sure you leave the inner shaft longer so you can grind down the edges so a u-joint will clamp to it.

Get inside the cab and move the steering wheel to your desired height, snug it up. Go into the fire wall and mark it off, and 3" sounds about right. Then cut.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

Go into the fire wall and mark it off, and 3" sounds about right. Then cut.

Make sure you slide the steering shaft out of the column before you cut it off as you want the shaft a few inches longer than the column. Best to cut the column off, slip the shaft back in place so the top end is right an then mark it.
If you need to do or have machine work on it it is best to cut it with a hacksaw or bandsaw rather than a chopsaw as a chopsaw will heat and harden the end of the shaft and give the machinist fits.

[big_b]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

I just bought a bearing at Fastenal and put it in the bottom of my stock 51' column, also did the same for the top. I'd recommend that over the overpriced bearings they sell for these columns.

The u joints are up to you. You can go to the junk yard and find something off of a GM that would work and or buy brand new expensive ones. I am using the s-10 frame with SBC and headers, so my app is different, but same concept as you will need to cut your steering tube and make sure you leave the inner shaft longer so you can grind down the edges so a u-joint will clamp to it.

Get inside the cab and move the steering wheel to your desired height, snug it up. Go into the fire wall and mark it off, and 3" sounds about right. Then cut.

do you have a part # for the bearings you bought? were they a press fit?
thanks

[99 to Life]

General Bearing Corp
I think the number is 6203-88-521

the other numbers are worn off the bag. I got it from Erie bearing company
from erie pa, my friend works at a machine shop and he sourced it.

it is a sealed bearing. I had to sand it down a little bit but it is closer of a fit
than the one I bought at fastenal.

The one from fastenal I used in my bottom shaft. I just sliced the column and pounded it in, you can't tell unless you really look for it. The top one was a better fit, I also sanded down my inner shaft a little with sand paper and used a drill to sand out the center of the bearing a little. Took about 15 min or so to sand, I'm sure if you got better tools or system it will go faster.

Here are pics of the upper, lower and my u joints from a chevy van. I know your set up is different, but this is mine. I don't like the big u-joints all that much but for 5 or ten bucks I couldn't pass them up.

[Red Foreman]

I bought the smallest of the shelf bearing with a 3/4" ID, a circlip & had a step bush made at my local engineering shop. Press the bearing into the bush then tap into the column tube.

[flatbed51]

Originally Posted by Red Foreman

I bought the smallest of the shelf bearing with a 3/4" ID, a circlip & had a step bush made at my local engineering shop. Press the bearing into the bush then tap into the column tube.

That is a nice setup you made there. Did you have to secure the bushing in the shaft or is it pressed in ?

[Red Foreman]

Originally Posted by flatbed51

That is a nice setup you made there. Did you have to secure the bushing in the shaft or is it pressed in ?

I drove it in with hammer & a timber block, so it was very tight, if I had any concerns it would move I could have drilled through the tube & bush & secured it with a screw or rivet.
I'm up to the point of cutting the steering shaft down & sending it off the the engineering shop to get two flats machined into it to suit the uni joint.

[rollenhard]

Thanks guys the pictures really help out
Thanks for all the feedback