Por 15...?

[mjo8585]

Anyone out there ever used this product on your truck before. I will be using it on my frame in the next few weeks. Was going to use a sprayer, but wondering if a brush will work just as well. I just dont want brush marks. Thanks again from minnesota!!

[biggestjohn]

Por 15 does not have U.V. protection, so it will fade and chalk up. Brushing will leave brush marks.

[swierker]

In my experience brushing on por 15 does not leave brush marks at all, it levels really well. I use the cheap disposable foam brushes and discard them after one use. But yes if it is exposed to UV rays it will be become a flat color so you should top coat it you're worried about appearance.

[turp mcspray]

I brushed it on a couple of times. Then I sprayed it on. I will NEVER brush it on again. Unless you have to brush it, spraying is soooo much faster.

[Dunenutt]

I've used it alot. Like said above, use foam brushes. It is realy thin stuff, so it flows out pretty good. Only dispense what you will need and cap the can. It's moisture cured, so if you leave the can open, it will harden. POR 15 has it in aerosol now, I have some, but have not tried it yet. They also have a clear called Puclid(sp) to coat anything that will see sunlight.

[wwotr]

Originally Posted by mjo8585

Anyone out there ever used this product on your truck before. I will be using it on my frame in the next few weeks. Was going to use a sprayer, but wondering if a brush will work just as well. I just dont want brush marks. Thanks again from minnesota!!

I am a complete "Idgit" when it comes to painting.
I used a "Starter Kit" of POR 15 on the surface rust on the Cab Floor of my 72 GMC and it came out GREAT.
Fantastic stuff that I'd reccomend in a Heartbeat!

Go to my Webpage at:
http://home.pon.net/wwotr/my%201990%...0Super%20Coupe

and scroll down to "Custom Seat Install 4/18/10:"
From there you can see before/after pictures of my POR 15 application on my Floor.

[Longhorn Man]

been using it for years, when used properly, no brush marks. If I leave the can open and it starts to thicken, then I get brush marks.
Spraying is fast, but you lose a lot of product (very exspensive overspray) and when spraying, you NEED a fresh air setup. The airborn particles are very bad for you

[LockDoc]

-
I think this is a good product but I think the jury is still out on the longevity. One of my questions is whether rust will start creeping under it around the bolt holes and areas where you can't get full coverage with it.

I have to spend a little time here on my observations of the POR15 product. First off if you have never used it and you are thinking about it I can't stress enough to read ALL of the instructions, TWICE. Being old school I have to learn all lessons the hard way. Two important points, #1- Wear some "good" rubber or latex gloves. (don't wear the ones you got from your buddy over at the ambulance barn, or that cute nurse at the hospital, they aren't heavy enough) If you don't wear gloves when you apply it you can wear them three weeks later when you go to uncle Harry's funeral, to cover the POR15 that's STILL on your hands. #2- If your bestest buddy Paul, (you know the one that's always pulling your leg about something) tells you to put a piece of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can after you have used some out of it don't say "yeah, right", do it! Otherwise you'll end up having to cut the center out of the lid with tin snips and pour what's left in the can into a jar. If there is any paint residue around the lip of the can and it sets a week or two you will NOT be able to get the lid off of the can, period! Oh, and another thing, if you wear coveralls to protect your best pair of pants and you drip the paint onto the coveralls they will now be your second best pair of pants. You will not be able to wipe the drip off before it soaks through to your good pants.

I almost forgot.... If you get it on any threads that you have to get a nut or bolt on/off of plan on using a tap, die, or thread chaser to clean the threads up first.

Hope this helps.....

LockDoc

[Longhorn Man]

all very good points

[swierker]

All good points above and I agree there are a lot "finer" points that you learn only from experience with it. I've been getting the 6 pack cans that they sell, less chance of waste in case it hardens. And it doesn't brush on as well after it thickens as Longhorn Man said. You do need to follow the instructions exactly to get the best results.

[70cst]

Here are some threads on POR 15...Hope this helps.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=464431

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=19355

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=409140

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=98907

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Leon sounds like you went down the same road I did woth por 15

[lunatic_magnet]

por-15 always works best when it has something to grab on to. IMHO it is useless at protecting fresh clean metal - even with all their expensive prep products. something that has some decent rust to it, it does a good job.

personally i switched to masterseries. one of my buddies turned me on to it, it's big with the old vw bug restoration guys. it goes on nicer than POR, doesn't lift off new metal like por does, and it's cheaper too! much easier to spray as well. i don't know if there are other distributors for it, but this is the guy in my area that sells it:
www.masterseriesct.com

[LONGHAIR]

The old painter's trick of poking a few holes in the rim can help too. This allows the piant to drip back into the can, rather than becoming "glue", holding the lid on. A swipe or two with the brush pushes that excess back into the can, clean-up is much easier too, less mess putting the lid back on.

A small screwdriver or awl is all it takes....

[cdowns]

actually i believe in thier instructions POR warns to not paint directly out of the can and to always pour out a small amount into a working container

me i punch 2holes opposing each other and seal with large headed sheetmetal screws then just remove the screws and pour the POR to paint with

i use brush to apply and have found the best longest lasting way to topcoat is by spraying singlestage paint while the POR is still aslightly tacky and not fully cured. that way giving a superior bond between topcoat and the POR

have been using POR15 many years and never had a problem that i could blame the product, the few problems encountered were all operator error

[eldogg]

I use alot of POR15. I've always had great results. Wear good gloves.

[slikside]

Don't want to steal the thread, but has anyone ever used it to paint steelie rims? Do they make it white? I noticed the lack of UV protection comments.

[Katrina/10]

I tried POR 15 and did not think it was all that great. It does not live up to the claims that it is impervious to rust. It also has no UV protection at all, if sunlight strikes it, it just comes right off. Rustoleum seems to protect better and is a lot cheaper.

[OldCreek]

It took a lot longer to paint the frame than I thought when I brushed on the POR. It's a little stressful when the POR starts to set and the frame isn't done yet.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

I tried POR 15 and did not think it was all that great. It does not live up to the claims that it is impervious to rust. It also has no UV protection at all, if sunlight strikes it, it just comes right off. Rustoleum seems to protect better and is a lot cheaper.

If it peeled off from sun hitting it, then you didn't do something right.
And while rustoleum is good stuff, it's nothing compaired to por... again, you didn't do something right.

[fastwillie 696969]

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:
ChassisCoat Black is a permanent black topcoat developed for
application over painted and primed surfaces. Apply over POR-15®
Rust Preventive Paint for the toughest, most permanent protection
against rust and corrosion ever developed. ChassisCoat Black is
non-porous and will not crack, chip or peel when properly applied.
It has amazing scratch and abrasion resistance and is similar in
strength to regular POR-15 coatings. ChassisCoat Black is not
sensitive to ultra-violet light and may be exposed to sunlight without
damaging consequences. Follow directions carefully and you will be
rewarded with the best chassis protection in the world!
Directions for Use:
Stir contents well, then dispense a portion into a separate
container and seal can at once, keeping lid and grooves clean to
avoid permanently sealing can shut. Do not paint directly out of can.
ChassisCoat Black, like all POR-15® coatings, should always be
stirred, never shaken. Best Dispensing Method: Use coffee scoop or
pouring spout. Do not put left-over paint back into can. Thin only with
POR-15® Solvent, if necessary. Apply in thin, covering coats.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Surface to be coated should be dry and free of grease, oil, and other
contaminants. Use POR-15 Marine Clean, diluted 1 part Marine
Clean to 8 parts water to remove light contamination. Then rinse with
water and allow to dry.
APPLYING CHASSISCOAT OVER OTHER PRIMERS
Repeat instructions above, then sand surface lightly with 240 grit
sandpaper and wipe clean with dry tack cloth and paint.
TO PAINT OVER A CURED POR-15 SURFACE
Clean with Marine Clean as above, then sand with 300 grit sandpaper
and apply one light to medium coat of POR-15 Self-Etching Primer.
Allow to cure for 30 Minutes at 68OF(20OC), or longer in cooler
temperatures. Apply ChassisCoat as fi nal fi nish. Depending on
temperatures and humidity recoat at 3-12 hour intervals.
Spray Application: Use 25-35 lbs.(172-240Kpa) pressure for normal
semi-gloss. Cleanup: Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner for
cleanup, which must be done before ChassisCoat Black dries; once
dry ChassisCoat Black cannot be removed by solvent. ChassisCoat
Black can take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness or longer in
temperatures below 55OF 15OC. ChassisCoat Black will need thinning
for most spray application 10-20%.
Question & Answers
I’ve been using POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint for years. Can I
use ChassisCoat Black instead and get the same rust protection?
No. You can use ChassisCoat Black on bare steel and get rust
protection, but nothing like POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint, which
penetrates into the pores of the metal and chemically bonds with the
surface. Use ChassisCoat Black over POR-15 to get the best
possible protection.
Come on now! I’ve put ChassisCoat Black on bare steel and have
gotten a terrifi c bond. It sure looks as good as a POR-15 coating on
bare metal or steel. Isn’t it just possible you’re only trying to sell me
another can of paint?
Absolutely not! Side-by-side panels were tested under a variety of
conditions, and POR-15 was shown to be clearly superior in
preventing oxidation and corrosion. Try it yourself and you’ll see.
Though ChassisCoat Black will easily out-perform other coatings on
bare steel, it’s greatest value and best use is as a topcoat over
POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint. We don’t classify it as a rustpreventive
coating except in its use as a non-porous topcoat made to
keep moisture from penetrating through it.
How does ChassisCoat Black work over other painted surfaces?
Very, very well. There are many occasions when you want
corrosion protection over a painted surface where you can’t remove
the old paint. Just clean that surface with a water-based cleaner,
then topcoat with ChassisCoat Black.
Is ChassisCoat Black the “perfect” topcoat, or does it have drawbacks
I should know about?
Unfortunately, nothing is perfect in this world, not even ChassisCoat
Black! Like POR-15, it won’t come off your hands if you let it dry;
it will harden in the can if you leave the lid off and dip your brush
directly in the can; it may occasionally have some tiny imperfections
in its fi nish, so we can’t call it a perfect cosmetic coating; and fi nally,
it is certainly not inexpensive. It’s very diffi cult to make, and the base
resins are very expensive, but we’ve never let cost stop us from
making the best coatings money can buy. ChassisCoat Black is one
of those coatings.
Odor: Aromatic
Percent Volatile by volume: 29.8%
Volatile Organics: 2.97 lbs/gal (270 grams/liter)
Flash Point (Method used): TCC 110OF(43OC)
Viscosity: Range @ 77OF/25OC: 250-500 CPS
(approx. same viscosity as regular POR-15 RPP
Application: Brush or Spray
Thinning Solvent: POR-15 Solvent only
Coverage: Quart - 96 - 120 sq ft (9-12sqm per liter)
Dry Time: 4 - 6 hours @ 30% ambient humidity
Full Cure/Maximum Hardness: 96 hours
Precautions: Avoid skin contact. Remove from skin at once to avoid
temporary staining. Use of gloves and ventilating equipment is
recommended. Note: Organic vapor particulate respirators, NIOSH/MSHA
approved must be used when spraying ChassisCoat Black. Moisture will
shorten the life of unused ChassisCoat Black. Seal can immediately after
dispensing. Keep out of reach of children. Harmful or fatal if swallowed.
Use in well-ventilated areas only.
HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS: Carbon Black #12438-9, Naptha Petroleum #64742-
95-6, Polymeric Isocyanate #28282-71-2, Contents partially unknown.
Information contained herein is to our knowledge true and accurate, but all recommen-dations or
suggestions are made without guarantee. Since the conditions of its use are beyond our control,
RestoMotive Laboratories/POR-15, Inc. disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of
its products and information contained herein. No person is authorized or empowered to make any
statement or recommendation not contained herein, and any such statement or recommendation
so made shall not bind the Corporation. Furthermore, nothing contained herein shall be construed
as a recommendation to use any product in confl ict with existing patents covering any material or
its use, and no license implied or in fact is granted herein under the claims of any patents.

[EdB]

I have also learned most lessons the hard way
and this is especially true with POR. It has worked
good for me but the advice about the gloves is true.
All of the other advice is also true.

One thing that I learned is that specks of POR stick
the best to glasses. Even if they are contaminated with
body oil, the POR burns right through and would probably
not wear off in a thousand years.

Another thing, that was probably mentioned, is to have plenty
of ventilation. the fumes will get to you after awhile.

EdB

[leddzepp]

Wear 2 pairs of gloves. Wear a respirator, NOT a "dust mask" whether you are brushing or spraying it. I have always used the small cans, one at a time as necessary. No waste. It holds up a LONG time when applied properly. The guy I buy it from locally has used it on his rides for over 20 years. Still looks brand new. I use it exclusively.

[dicer]

I don't think it is worth the hassel. Good old zero rust and or rustoleum will work as good, and probably last better, for UV protection have a UV protectant added to the paint, its that simple.