Ideas!!!

[gordito56]

What's up everyone! New to the board and need a ton of ideas and input on my 1956. I've had this truck since high school and would like to start working on it. I would like for it to look clean and original with a lower stance. I like the way yezzi's 55 is stanced, who am i kidding, i love the whole truck and would like to set mine up similar to that. Any ideas and input would be appreciated. Here's a pic of what i'm working with...thanks!

[Kim57]

Welcome
That looks like a real nice clean truck to start with.
Kim

[gordito56]

thanks kim...

[Red Foreman]

Cool truck looks nice and solid, even cooler look'n heater box!
I'm not an expert here "my truck is clipped" but your probably going to need a front drop axle & some mono leafs all round. I'm sure there is some members here with that combo.

[gordito56]

How much did yours lower when you clipped it. I was debating on the drop axle or maybe a mustang II. The drop axle is definitely less expensive but don't know if i'll get enough drop out of it. Will mono leafs help me get more drop in addition to what the drop axle gives? Thanks for the compliment on the truck and heater! It actually still blows heat! Thanks for the info red foreman, you have a cool truck also, what's under the hood?

[Red Foreman]

My 56 is in pieces atm but I expect a 5-6" drop with the 2nd gen clip installed
but these clips are not for everyone even though I would do it again.

I'm building a 63 348W for it, parts for these engines are not cheap but I like the cool factor that goes with them!

[FFredo]

Nice truck, welcome from another new guy. Lots of info and know how on this site.

[57 3100]

here is my 57. about 6-7" drop all around.
up front is a 3" dropped axle from Sid at www.droppedaxles.com, and 3 of the original leafs pulled, and out back all i did was flip the rear over the leafs.

[mr48chev]

That is a pretty sweet little truck to begin with and that really helps.

Sid's reputation for doing quality dropped axles is right at the top and his prices are friendly http://www.droppedaxles.com/ Custom springs either new or by having your modified would bring it down some more.

The subframe swaps are good but not for everyone and a guy needs to be a good fabricator and welder before attempting one. They will help these trucks drive and ride great while sitting right down where you want them though and and they are probably the least expensive way to go if you do them yourself.

The MII front ends work great and several vendors have kits that are designed for your truck.

Guys are starting to use the Jag XJ 6 front end which unbolts from the Jags pretty well in one piece. Prices vary around the country per availability of doner cars in wrecking yards or via buying a parts car.

And one of our own Scott will probably offer up one of his front end kits that while not the least expensive is well designed and well built and he will pretty well custom build it for your truck to get you right at the ride height you want.

I think the first thing is to sit down and design the truck on paper by listing out everything you want to do to it and then figure out a budget to do it with.
figure out what you can spend and stick to it and don't let people talk you into going over your budget for the truck. We have guys with every level of pocket book for truck projects on here. those who think a truck has to have a 6,000 set of one off custom wheels and tires on down to us guys who use that same budget for the whole truck.

[gordito56]

Thanks for the comments guys. That's gonna be a cool setup once its all done Red Foreman.

Ffredo, welcome...what kinda truck do you have?

57 3100, In your avatar, i like the stance of your truck! Great look, is there anywhere i can see some detailed pics of your truck. I know you have a photobucket link, but for some reason my computer doesn't download from photobucket. Thanks for the info!

mr48chevy, thanks for the info!!! I couldn't agree with you more about the whole budget thing. Everyone has different ideas of what "cool" is and with that a million price ranges, so a person has to find their look and go with it and also what they can afford. Thanks for the advice and kick a*s 48!

[65panelrat]

Nice Trokita! Bienvenidos from Rio Rancho!

[gordito56]

65panelrat...gracias!!! I see you got a 54 with a 235 and lowered...tell me about it.

[gordito56]

another question...i have a 283 out of a 57 that needs to be rebuilt and i recently picked up a 350 fuel injected out of a late 80's suburban that will also need to be redone. should i go old school with the 283 or just do the 350??? thanks guys

[65panelrat]

Originally Posted by gordito56

65panelrat...gracias!!! I see you got a 54 with a 235 and lowered...tell me about it.

The 54' I lowered removing leaf springs front and rear in addition to 2" rear lowering blocks. Stock enclosed drive line, 4 speed and 235 cu. in. Lots of new "bling" on an old truck. Lots of fun to drive and a real head turner. As far as your pickup goes I am all for the Ol' School 283 cu. in.

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by gordito56

57 3100, In your avatar, i like the stance of your truck! Great look, is there anywhere i can see some detailed pics of your truck. I know you have a photobucket link, but for some reason my computer doesn't download from photobucket. Thanks for the info!

thanks man... PM me your e-mail address and i can send you some pics that way.
take care.

leonard

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

...We have guys.... on here...who... use that same budget for the whole truck.

Hey, you talkin about me again?!

But seriously, Mr48chevy is right on the mark. If getting it all done fast is the goal, you're gonna spend a lot of money or settle for a lot for stuff you don't truly want. If you take the time to make it the way you want it including doing a lot of the work yourself? Yeah, it'll take longer but it'll truly be yours and will give you a LOT of satisfaction and enjoyment. Good luck with whatever you decide....oh and POST PICTURES. We LIKE US some pictures

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 57 3100

here is my 57. about 6-7" drop all around.
up front is a 3" dropped axle from Sid at www.droppedaxles.com, and 3 of the original leafs pulled, and out back all i did was flip the rear over the leafs.

Not to hijack, but I just read this and I wonder if your front wheels rub on turns/dips? With the rear just over the leafs, (no C notch on the frame I assume?) don't you have VERY little vertical travel in the suspension? Has that been a problem or don't you drive it daily?

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Not to hijack, but I just read this and I wonder if your front wheels rub on turns/dips? With the rear just over the leafs, (no C notch on the frame I assume?) don't you have VERY little vertical travel in the suspension? Has that been a problem or don't you drive it daily?

dan,
my front wheels dont rub at all in either direction, lock to lock or on roar dips. the wheels are 15x6 with 3.5 back space, 2.5 out. tires are, i think, 225-70-15. when Sid made the axle, he made it narrower to compensate for the front rotors, disc brakes.

out back with the flip, i have about 1" of travel before bottoming out on the frame. with the gas shocks it takes a really big dip to bottom out. and i got a 3/16" thick piece of hard rubber there so its not metal to metal. i was going to c-nothc it, but would only gain an extra 1/2" or travel before the pumpkin hits the bottom of the bed wood, so i left it alone.
not a problem at all, since i dont haul anything in it, and i really only drive it ont he weekends, sometimes i put 100 miles on it each weekend.
hope this helps.

leonard

[gordito56]

alot of great information guys!!!!!!!! i was talking with a friend of mine last night about your suspension setup (57 3100) and he actually has his 56 with all the body off so we were really able to look at what you were talking about and we were also wondering if you would bottom out on the back. Good question Dan in Pasadena! So by moving the rear end on top, you say the pumpkin doesn't hit the frame? Just making sure because of friend of mine has that problem and it hits pretty hard but his 56 is on totally different frame, i think off an early 70s truck. Thanks for all the input guys! Post some pics of your rides to check out...Thanks

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by gordito56

alot of great information guys!!!!!!!! i was talking with a friend of mine last night about your suspension setup (57 3100) and he actually has his 56 with all the body off so we were really able to look at what you were talking about and we were also wondering if you would bottom out on the back. Good question Dan in Pasadena! So by moving the rear end on top, you say the pumpkin doesn't hit the frame? Just making sure because of friend of mine has that problem and it hits pretty hard but his 56 is on totally different frame, i think off an early 70s truck. Thanks for all the input guys! Post some pics of your rides to check out...Thanks

gordito56....

with my flipper rear housing, i have about 1" of travel before the axle tubes hit the frame. i cut up an old boat trailer rubber mud flap thats about 3/16" thick, bolted it to the frame in the area where the axle tube hits, so when it does bottom out it aint metal on metal. i made a world of difference.
the pumpkin, (the center section of the rear housing where the drive shaft goes into, where your ring and pinion is), will hit the bottom of the wood bed boards at about 1.5", so if i put all that work into c-notching the frame, i would only gain 1/2", meaning no matter how much i notched the frame, the center pumpkin would bottom out on the wood before the frame would hit the axle tubes.... hope this explains it well enough..

your buddys truck on the 70's truck frame is the same concept, but not sure how much travel he has if the rear is flipped....

take care.

leonard

[57 3100]

oh yea, here is a pic that will hopefully explain my setup..... dont laugh at my old exhaust with the tie wire.... i got a new set of flowmasters last week with tail pipes....

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hmmm, I like the stance on your truck and I especially like that you have no rubbing issues on the front end, but your rear end situation...? I've got to admit I wouldn't like that.

I have been wondering about Posie's Superslide lowering springs. I have no idea what they cost but I'm betting it'll be a helluva LOT more than flipping the rearend.

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Hmmm, I like the stance on your truck and I especially like that you have no rubbing issues on the front end, but your rear end situation...? I've got to admit I wouldn't like that.

I have been wondering about Posie's Superslide lowering springs. I have no idea what they cost but I'm betting it'll be a helluva LOT more than flipping the rearend.

yea, getting the right stance is a lot of work for sure, and you gotta sacrifice something, like ride quality, unless you spends tons of money on an IFS up front, and notching the rear frame, taking the wood out of the bed, etc.
instead of spending the money on lowered leaf springs, i just removed the leafs and bought 50 dollar nitrogen gas shocks. works pretty darn good.
take care guys.
leonard

[57 3100]

yea, the rear flip kit was like 75 bucks from summit, and i got 7" of drop..... im sure they dont make a drop spring with that much drop, and if they did, you would be right where i am at, with 1" of travel before slapping the frame.

leonard

[gordito56]

57 3100, Yeah i understand what your saying about the rear end hitting. I also got the pics you sent, DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! your truck is sweet! That thing is super clean man, good job. What engine and trans are you running? Are you running original rear end, if so what did you do to convert it to five hole? I can't see the pic you posted on the thread but i would like to see some more pics, that truck is bad...thanks

Dan i seen some lowering springs for the rear on lmc for like 400 i think but i want to say they were only 3 inches.