Front end wobble after spindle U-bolt replacement and cut front springs?

[Low & Slow]

Set out lastnight to lower my front end and noticed that the U-bolts connecting the spindle were nearly rusted through. I cut them off, dropped the spindle, cut my springs, installed new shocks and reassembled everything with new u-bolts from the hardware store. The u-bolts were the same radius but smaller diameter and I thought nothing of it.

Lowered her down and netted 3" of drop. Everything is solid, didn't mess with ball joints or anything else up front.

I replaced some belts and the valve cover gaskets and took it for a test drive withou an alignment and with the factory rear height. Around 40mph there's a noticable front end wobbling. Almost as if the lugs are loose. Everything however is tight.

Can severe rake like this cause wobble?



Might this be a problem with the shocks up front being new and old gear out back? The old shocks in front were blown, I imagine the rears are too.
Is it alignment related? The truck tracks straight.
Will unsettled cut springs cause this?
I plan to put rear bags/ shocks in tomorrow might this correct the problem?

Steering is tight, U-bolts are tight, lug nuts tight, all Castle nuts are tight with new cotter pins, no play in the spindles, it is not boucing off of the bumpstops. It feels almost like a wagging up front. Like it's a Trac bar problem but I didn't touch the rear suspension.

Thanks a ton guys!
Posted via Mobile Device

[fastwillie 696969]

stock shocks or did you get lowered shocks ? i wouldnt think that would matter for a vibration or wobble ,i would think that some how cutting the springs change the geometerics of the alignment ,try getting alignment done most likely they will tell ya whats wrong if they cant get it to realign if the parts are wrong or worn out ,i would check other front end parts tie rods ,idler ,pitman ,center link too

[Low & Slow]

I was told that factory length front shocks would be fine and there is still plenty of travel in them. Problem still happens on flat roads as well.

I'm confussed because it rode perfectly fine two days ago so I feel like I did something. I tried searching and didn't really come up with anything.

The only thing I can logically think of is that the drive shaft is binding and shaking because of the new angle caused by the rake. Does that sound plausible?

Dammit I love this truck regardless!
Posted via Mobile Device

[fastwillie 696969]

Originally Posted by Low & Slow

I was told that factory length front shocks would be fine and there is still plenty of travel in them. Problem still happens on flat roads as well.

I'm confussed because it rode perfectly fine two days ago so I feel like I did something. I tried searching and didn't really come up with anything.

The only thing I can logically think of is that the drive shaft is binding and shaking because of the new angle caused by the rake. Does that sound plausible?

Dammit I love this truck regardless!
Posted via Mobile Device

you said at 40 mph right ,does it go away when you go over 40 ,i would check the rear differental yoke for excess play ,the yoke could be worn out ,

[Brandonc20]

How did you put your wheels on? Remember the diamond formation. That would cause it!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Low & Slow]

Will check the yoke tomorrow, my buddy is letting me use his lift for the rear bags in exchange for a case of pbr.

While up ill check the ball joints for verticle play and horizontal play in the yoke. The wobbling can be felt in your butt and not the steering wheel. Starts at 35ish, tops of in intensity by 45 but is present after that.

As for tightening, this was actually my first time tightening a 6 lug. I assume I tightened then correctly. I tightened the nuts one at a time jumping to the opposite side of the rim after each nut was torqued.

Is there something I'm missing? No shake in the wheel would eliminate the ball joints right?
Posted via Mobile Device

[fastwillie 696969]

Originally Posted by Low & Slow

Will check the yoke tomorrow, my buddy is letting me use his lift for the rear bags in exchange for a case of pbr.

While up ill check the ball joints for verticle play and horizontal play in the yoke. The wobbling can be felt in your butt and not the steering wheel. Starts at 35ish, tops of in intensity by 45 but is present after that.

As for tightening, this was actually my first time tightening a 6 lug. I assume I tightened then correctly. I tightened the nuts one at a time jumping to the opposite side of the rim after each nut was torqued.

Is there something I'm missing? No shake in the wheel would eliminate the ball joints right?
Posted via Mobile Device

is in the drive line

[Low & Slow]

So I'm looking at it being rake related drive shaft binding or yoke issues if it's not present in the steering wheel? Would bad ball joints cause issues at all speeds or appear at higher speeds?

Putting the rear on stands and driving up to 40 would verify driveline vs suspension?

It's a strong enough wobble to shake the window glass inside the doors.
Posted via Mobile Device

[cdowns]

get good alignment so the upper control arms can b shimmed to correct the camber b4 the tires are worn to junk

[Low & Slow]

So the driveshaft centering bushing under the bed seems to be rotted out. The rubber is cracked all the way around and it seems like shaft has play side to side and up and down. It certainly is not being held in the bushing properly.

Could this new jumping be caused by the stance?

How far is safe to drive without the alignment? My buddies shop is a good 20 mile round trip but he doesn't have alignment tools.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

First,... get the correct u-bolts.
Take the hardware store u-bolts off before they fail and you have an accident.
Most auto parts stores have them.
ECE or Performance Online also sells them.
Look here:
http://www.classicparts.com/1967-91-...ctinfo/74-352/
Did you also align hole in the lower a-arm cross shafts in the crossmember saddles correctly?
I've chopped many springs and they drove just fine,... even before I got to the alignment shop.

The hardware store u-bolts need to go!
I think you have other issues.

[Low & Slow]

Picked up the U-bolts at napa and will put them on today. Also noticed she was riding on the bumpstops. Could this be the problem? Zero play in the balljoints but the wagging stops when the steering wheel is turned while driving.

What holes in a-arms are you referring to that need to be aligned?

Excuse my lack of knowledge. This is my first classic anything. And I've never done anything close to this type of build.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Low & Slow

Picked up the U-bolts at napa and will put them on today. Also noticed she was riding on the bumpstops. Could this be the problem? Zero play in the balljoints but the wagging stops when the steering wheel is turned while driving.

What holes in a-arms are you referring to that need to be aligned?

Excuse my lack of knowledge. This is my first classic anything. And I've never done anything close to this type of build.
Posted via Mobile Device

Look at this pic.
There is a "pin" in the front u-bolt saddle that has to index on the hole in the cross shaft.
The one pictured has two holes,... but your original cross shafts should just have one in the front end of the cross shaft.

http://www.performanceonline.com/196...-EACH-LCS6372/

[Low & Slow]

Huh, there doesnt appear to be any indexing hole on either bar, front or back. Were the saddles supposed to come off with the U-bolts? They were frozen into place and I assumed were welded in place. I put the new U-bolts in the same divits that the originals were in and the saddles in the same marks which they left on the shafts as well.

Might the bump stops being ridden on cause this issue as well?

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Low & Slow

Might the bump stops being ridden on cause this issue as well?

Reguardless of any other issues you may have, yes riding on the bump stops is bad. It will not only ride badly, the steering is hit or miss at best. The tires take all of the hit, quite litterally

[cdowns]

if you are riding on the bump stops you have no suspension at all// you need a new set of springs// cut too much no good to use for anything other than scrappile

[Low & Slow]

Sooooooo crap. One coil dropped it down 3"?

Am I better off getting lowering springs or a factory set and cutting them half a coil this time? I cut the bump stops in half and they are clearing now. No wagging motion. It was the bump stops.

If it is clearing the bump stops now is it ok to drive?

[fastwillie 696969]

i just realize your name is the same of your problem LOL

[Low & Slow]

well the rear bags turned out ok. Shock relocation was easy too lol.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

That looks really low for cutting just one coil.
I will be surprised if the alignment shop doesn't have some issues.
Its as low, or lower, than my '69 with drop spindles and 3" drop springs.
Look cool though.
Let us know how the front end alignment goes,...

[N2TRUX]

I would shop the price between stock springs and 2" drop springs. Personally, I prefer stock springs that are cut. My guess is yours were shot to begin with and needed replacing anyway.If your not riding on the stops, and the waggle is gone you are headed in the right direction.

[Low & Slow]

Yes sir. It's a swapped 305/ th350 and this truck was used hard. It was the shop truck for a mechanic. Basically it's been patched and fixed with random parts. None of the undercarriage is the same color. I wouldn't be surprised if the springs were from another truck. I actually only cut 7/8 of a coil because I suspected it would nose dive.

It's hovering above the stops. I can basically fit a finger in the gap. I was gonna try spring helpers until I can source a set of factory set of springs. She does look killer, track straight, and seem smooth for now.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Low & Slow]

Question. Are the new shocks and trac bar the only thing keeping the air bags from tearing when the truck is on a lift? They look pretty streched when the truck is up.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Low & Slow

Question. Are the new shocks and trac bar the only thing keeping the air bags from tearing when the truck is on a lift? They look pretty streched when the truck is up.

Yep. Limit straps would be a good idea.

[Low & Slow]

Are limit straps something that I can make with hardware store parts? I searched and only found 4x4 website selling them for way too much money.

Also, would a spring booster be the way to go for the front until I can source a set of springs? Something like this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=828156_0_0_