07-14-2011, 03:34 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 49
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Door Skins
Has anyone here replaced a full door skin (just below window) on a 64-66? If so, what was the experience like? Anything I should be aware of before starting?
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07-14-2011, 05:04 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,901
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Re: Door Skins
I reskinned a door on the '65 C10 I restored from the lower body line down. A whole skin would be easier with less welding. You can use a hammer and dolly to fold the edges over tightly or there are pnuematic tools that fold them over. Clean the edge of the inner door frame edge good (remove all rust and prime if needed) and use a slow drying seam sealer on the flange to seal moisture out to prevent future rust. Once you have the edge of the door skin folded over you can wipe off the excess sealer that will squeeze out with lacquer thinner. Take you time folding the edge over; don't start out trying to lay the whole edge down at first. Try to break it up into 3-4 passes, slowly tapping the edge down. If you try to lay the edge down too much at once the metal will stretch and will become harder to get it too lay down evenly. I made mine from scratch but as long as the body lines on the new skin line up to the old ones, a new skin would be much easier. Also, make sure the new skin is 20ga or thinner or you'll have a heck of a time bending the edge over.
Here's a few pics of the skin I replaced. |
07-14-2011, 10:03 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NW
Posts: 121
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Re: Door Skins
Take your time!!!!!! I have not done a door skin on these particular trucks but I have worked in the paint and body industry for over five years and have done hundreds of door skins on late model cars( I know, not fun but it pays the bills.) and the biggest thing is taking your time so you dont ripple the edge. For insurance purposes we grind the outer side of the door shell lip and the mating surface of door skin with 36 grit and apply door skin adhesive( 3M sells a 2 part product.) to help hold it in place so it wont sag over time and use fexible foam against the inner brace so it won't rattle. Other than that clean all mating surfaces and apply a self etch type primer to stop the rust and you should be good to go. Also be patient with your welding on the upper seam of the door skin, the faster you go the more heat which equals more warping. Good luck!!!!
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07-14-2011, 11:07 PM | #4 |
But Found Her 25yrs Later!
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 10,530
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Re: Door Skins
I kinda wondered if doing the door skin from that lower bodyline down, one could use panel glue instead. I wouldn't think you get any ghosting.
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08-07-2011, 05:08 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: North GA
Posts: 400
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Re: Door Skins
I replaced the full skin on both doors of my 72. I also did both inner door bottoms as well as some other patches. I welded mine on and used a cheap Harbour Freight hammer & dolly set to fold the lip over. I took my time and they came out pretty good, especially for a first timer
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