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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,962
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t5 dimension question
have run aground waiting for Hamilton Intakes to produce their S10-T5 adapter - last time I spoke to them, they said they'd have them in 3 weeks - now they don't even answer the phone or reply to emails from over a week ago. Gonna have to make one myself. Since the runout is kinda critical, was wondering if anyone had the dimensions on the T5 mounting bolt holes relative to centerline? (or the same measurements for a Chev Bell Hsg?
Been combing the internet, and nothing has had the bolt relation to centerline. I think my best bet at this point, unless someone has those specs, is probably to have the step-in concentric rings milled in a larger than necessary flat plate, and THEN stick it on the trans and mark & drill the holes to match. My biggest concern is that each subsequent milling/drilling operation induces more error and am concerned that the runout on the index ring relative to centerline will reach an un-fixable amount. Or, I'm just gonna mill the #$% thing and stab it into the truck and call it a day. If it's runout is out of spec and the input shaft bearing wears out, screw it, I'll get a TKO.... Was considering buying a 621 bell but I still have the problem of adding an adapter - and the 621 bell is a major reda$$ to get into the truck around that friggin trans mount crossmember. Could not be mor ein the way. I swear, can't begin to describe how much it sucks when you build a plan and it falls apart because one de$%^*bag company falsely advertises. Just plain sucks. Sitting around pickin my nose waiting on these knuckleheads for over a month now. Getting tired of it, so gonna have to make one of my own I guess. ANYWAY, if anyone has those dimensions, that would be awesome. Thanks. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 403
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Re: t5 dimension question
Jocko -
I think your best bet is cutting the input shaft and outer sleeve down to fit. I can't remember your clutch setup - but then you can make a thin spacer plate and still rely on the retainer to center the trans in the bellhousing. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bancroft, ontario
Posts: 554
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Re: t5 dimension question
hey jocko,bummer about hamilton..that sucks!check out advance adapters website.they seem to have every adapter known to man.dont know if they have exactly what you need but might be worth a shot.they have an 1 800#maybe they can at least point you in the right direction.good luck.........dan
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,962
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Re: t5 dimension question
Thanks oldtrux, I will look there.
Scot D, I'm with ya, BUT - the length of the T5 i/p shaft that is splined (i.e. it's not much, especially compared to the 3-speed) almost requires approx 3/4" spacer just to allow the clutch hub to be remotely centered on the splines. if I only cut the i/p shaft down and the then the sleeve, the spline placement doesn't change - and without the spacer, only about 1/3 of the clutch splines would ever engage the i/p shaft splines. (Sorry, not sure I explained that very well). Your approach is what I really wanted to do so that I could actually use the trans's bearing retainer to center in the bell - but unfortunately just can't get there from here - I went and measured and if I use a thin enough spacer to allow the trans's bearing retainer engage the bell, then I only have about half of the clutch splines engaged, best case. Kind of a lousy situation. Did that investigateive work last night and ruled out that approach, even though I was really hopeful. Gonna have to make my own but will give Advance Adapters a holler first. Thanks guys! |
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#5 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: t5 dimension question
See if you can find a good CNC machine shop in your area. You should be able to take them a bellhousing, and your trans along with either a pic or a drawing of what you need and they should be able to make that adapter all at once.
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,962
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Re: t5 dimension question
I think I've found a possible solution thanks to oldtrux suggestion. It's an adapter for a Jeep T5, have looked at it in detail, and with a few very minor mods, it should work.
Here is my quesiton: What do you think the MINIMUM amount of engagement is that is acceptable for the pilot shaft tip to engage the pilot bushing? i.e. in a perfect world, the pilot shaft length is centered in the pilot bushing, but that rarely happens in swaps. If I use the Advance Adapters option I'm thinking of going with - only about 1/3 (or approx 3/8") of the input shaft's pilot shaft tip engages the pilot bushing. The solution, that I don't want to have to do (since I already have the new pilot bushing, clutch, pressure plate, and old bell installed (i.e. all that's left is to stab the trans in....) is to re-install a new (or the old if I can possibly get it out without damaging it - not likely) bushing, but not pound it in all the way. But I really, really don't want to wrestle the #$%^& bell assembly out over the crossmember again for the 3rd time. Admittedly, It's getting much easier with all the practice, but it is a pain in the butt. Begs the next question - have always heard you should never re-use pressure plate and flywheel bolts - but is that "never reuse" as in "if they've ever been torqued before" or as in "if they are old"??? In other words, all my crap is new (ARP bolts on both) and torqued down - does removing them, even though brand new mean I need brand new bolts all over again. I've always thought this was the case, i.e. once torqued down - if you ever remove them you should replace them. But that's gettin a little tiring runnin around buying fly and pp bolts every time I turn around. Anyway, interested in your thoughts in min acceptable amount if pilot bushing engagement for the pilot shaft and whether or not new fly and pressure plate bolts are a must once they are installed, torqued, (never used) and then removed?? Seems to me that as long as really ANY portion of the pilto shaft is engaging the bushing, it alleviates any stress on the input shaft and serves the purpose of the pilot bushing and pilit shaft, i.e. anchoring the tip of the input shaft. My concern would be that since the pilot shaft is not FULLY engaged that it might cause some premature wear on the inner portion of the bushing - but I've never seen a pilot bushing wear out (like a pilot bearing may tend to do at times). Thanks gents! Finally getting close on the solution to this mess. By the way, Hamilton Intakes pretty much has been written off my "friend" list. They completely boned me on this one and still never returned the few voicemails and emails I've left them (all polite). Whatever. Thanks again! Last edited by jocko; 07-29-2011 at 08:19 PM. |
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