Help Key broke off in ignition and truck wont start

[flintc10]

Well here is the story, I went to start my truck and the key wouldnt turn. So I just turned harder and broke the key off. I am not able to start the truck I am guessing that I put the key in wrong. I was in a hurry but then again I am always in a hurry. So I tried to get the key out with no luck. I need to find a way to get the ignition out. I dont have another key and the door lock dont work so i am ready to buy a new ignition. I need to figure out how to get the ignition out. Please help.

[ChevLoRay]

Sucks, don't it?

I know that removing the key cylinder is done with the key inserted properly and then you insert a small diameter wire into that little hole that is nearby and very neighborly. Maybe you can try that, but I'm gonna bet it won't work. I don't know if you can remove the switch ass'y from the dash w/o first removing the cylinder....I can't remember. But it seems that you can't.

The outer ring around the ignition switch is what holds it in the dash. My replacement cab still has the complete ass'y. When the cab is shaded and I'm dressed for the oven, I'll go and try to remove it w/o pulling the cylinder...just to see if it can be done. That's the only thing I can think of. If so, or maybe not, you're probably needing a new switch/cylinder ass'y.

But, did you stick a common screwdriver into the slot and try turning it to the accessory position just to see if that releases the key? Don't know if it will work...just runnin' my fingers on the keys.

[red71cheyenne]

If you can get the old key out that is your best bet. It needs to come out in order to get the lock cylinder out. Since its already fubar, try grabbing it with some needle nose and pulling it out. Then you might be able to get the right key in it to remove the lock cylinder.

[bosco200]

Take a flat head screw driver and put it in the ignition, try to turn it to ACC, put a paper clip into that little hole on the ignition, there is a little button that paper clip hits and unlock its, then the ignition will be able to be pulled out.....Hope this helps

[LockDoc]

-

You probably didn't have the key in all the way. Sometimes you can get the broken key out with a piece of coping saw blade. Break off the end of the blade to get rid of the little pin that holds it in the coping saw, then grind the back of the blade so it angles toward the teeth (so the end comes to a point). make sure that the teeth on the pointed end angle back towards you. Stick it in the key hole, under or beside the key and see if you can hook the key with the blade teeth and pull it out.

TO GET THE LOCK CYLINDER OUT:
If you can get it to turn, turn it to the left as far as it will go and insert a straightened paper clip or stiff wire into the hole in the face of the cylinder and “gently” push the spring loaded pin in. Turn the cylinder further to the left to remove it.

After you push the spring loaded pin in with the stiff wire and turn the cylinder further to the left you have to pull the wire out to finish turning it or it will bind. You can also turn it too far after you pull the wire out. That is when you have to wiggle the cylinder back and forth a little bit. If you wiggle it too much the pin will pop back out and you will have to start over. You should not have to put excessive turning pressure on it or push down hard on the spring loaded pin. Gentle and patience are the key words here...

If that fails, for a temporary fix you can unplug the connector from the back of the ignition switch and plug in another switch and let it hang down under the dash.

For the people that read this thread that do not have an ignition key take the passenger door lock out and take it to your local locksmith. It should have a code number stamped into the lock case and the locksmith can cut a key from the code number. If none of the locks have been changed the key will fit the ignition.

The attached image shows the code location.

[red71cheyenne]

LockDoc, I was always curious about this. What does the number on the cylinder tell a locksmith?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by red71cheyenne

LockDoc, I was always curious about this. What does the number on the cylinder tell a locksmith?

We have a book (or computer program) that lists all of the code numbers with the individual cuts in the key following the code. My code book shows that the depth cuts in the key for the code I posted (1J86) would be 132433.

LockDoc

[sleepertruck72]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

We have a book (or computer program) that lists all of the code numbers with the individual cuts in the key following the code. My code book shows that the depth cuts in the key for the code I posted (1J86) would be 132433.

LockDoc

Thats some awesome info LockDoc I learned something new today

[red71cheyenne]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

We have a book (or computer program) that lists all of the code numbers with the individual cuts in the key following the code. My code book shows that the depth cuts in the key for the code I posted (1J86) would be 132433.

LockDoc

Cool info! Thanks for interpreting it for us.

[bosco200]

sooo did you get it?

[68shortstep]

Here's an old Popular Mechanics magazine trick (it works) from the 1960's I think.

Find a cork - wine bottle cork, whatever - two sewing needles pushed thru the cork near the bottom of each side of the cork at about 45 degrees until the pointed tips are close together (think tweezers or chopsticks) --- the cork holds the needles positioned right.

Then push the tip of a needle a little ways down in on each side of the broken key stub & use your fingers to squeeze the needles together up near the cork, pinching the needles together & putting pressure on the broken key stub --- like I said, think tweezers.

Pull broken key gently out of the ignition. If you haven't boogered-up the ignition trying a bunch of other more violent tricks, it works easy.

Never has failed me yet.

[andrewbond]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-

You probably didn't have the key in all the way. Sometimes you can get the broken key out with a piece of coping saw blade. Break off the end of the blade to get rid of the little pin that holds it in the coping saw, then grind the back of the blade so it angles toward the teeth (so the end comes to a point). make sure that the teeth on the pointed end angle back towards you. Stick it in the key hole, under or beside the key and see if you can hook the key with the blade teeth and pull it out.

TO GET THE LOCK CYLINDER OUT:
If you can get it to turn, turn it to the left as far as it will go and insert a straightened paper clip or stiff wire into the hole in the face of the cylinder and “gently” push the spring loaded pin in. Turn the cylinder further to the left to remove it.

After you push the spring loaded pin in with the stiff wire and turn the cylinder further to the left you have to pull the wire out to finish turning it or it will bind. You can also turn it too far after you pull the wire out. That is when you have to wiggle the cylinder back and forth a little bit. If you wiggle it too much the pin will pop back out and you will have to start over. You should not have to put excessive turning pressure on it or push down hard on the spring loaded pin. Gentle and patience are the key words here...

If that fails, for a temporary fix you can unplug the connector from the back of the ignition switch and plug in another switch and let it hang down under the dash.

For the people that read this thread that do not have an ignition key take the passenger door lock out and take it to your local locksmith. It should have a code number stamped into the lock case and the locksmith can cut a key from the code number. If none of the locks have been changed the key will fit the ignition.

The attached image shows the code location.

great information!!!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by andrewbond

great information!!!

Thanks Andrew...

LockDoc

[andrewbond]

always welcome...awesome information can help!!!

[litew8]

Leon has never done this before great info

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-

You probably didn't have the key in all the way. Sometimes you can get the broken key out with a piece of coping saw blade. Break off the end of the blade to get rid of the little pin that holds it in the coping saw, then grind the back of the blade so it angles toward the teeth (so the end comes to a point). make sure that the teeth on the pointed end angle back towards you. Stick it in the key hole, under or beside the key and see if you can hook the key with the blade teeth and pull it out.

TO GET THE LOCK CYLINDER OUT:
If you can get it to turn, turn it to the left as far as it will go and insert a straightened paper clip or stiff wire into the hole in the face of the cylinder and “gently” push the spring loaded pin in. Turn the cylinder further to the left to remove it.

After you push the spring loaded pin in with the stiff wire and turn the cylinder further to the left you have to pull the wire out to finish turning it or it will bind. You can also turn it too far after you pull the wire out. That is when you have to wiggle the cylinder back and forth a little bit. If you wiggle it too much the pin will pop back out and you will have to start over. You should not have to put excessive turning pressure on it or push down hard on the spring loaded pin. Gentle and patience are the key words here...

If that fails, for a temporary fix you can unplug the connector from the back of the ignition switch and plug in another switch and let it hang down under the dash.

For the people that read this thread that do not have an ignition key take the passenger door lock out and take it to your local locksmith. It should have a code number stamped into the lock case and the locksmith can cut a key from the code number. If none of the locks have been changed the key will fit the ignition.

The attached image shows the code location.

[67chevy1series]

weld something to the key if you can find metal and a welder that will weld to it... then turn the key with a paper clip in the hole.... or you can get a big dril bit and drill the ignition out.