Exhaust manifold ideas?

[Denee007]

Hi!
I posted this pic in my build thread, but I have a question regarding suggestions for exhaust manifolds. This engine came of out a '72 impala with stock exhaust. I didnt' get a darned photo of them, they both kind of dump towards the back, one angled backwack 20degrees or so an the other straight downward. I had them blasted and the old rusty studs removed and holes made new again. But even so they look ok and not rusty, they still look beat up and old (maybe recoated they'd look better), but still not sure they'll even fit the application of an Apache.

I'll be using the biscuit type engine mounts/ bolt to the frame and maybe partially welded in.

As said in my build thread~ the valve covers here are just for show as my engine builder had them on hand, the heads won't accept these particular valve covers. I'm thinking an aluminum polished vc with Chevy logos.

[Richard H.]

The top right picture shows my Sanderson block huggers , cast iron. Kinda pricey but worth it.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...99&postcount=5

[Dan in Pasadena]

I've heard excellent things about Calyx, but even Eastwoods themselves say their paint-on products are more durable. Make sure to post pictures of whatever you use; we like photo references of products!

http://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating.html

http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray...ating-kit.html

[Dan in Pasadena]

My little 283 Before and After; headers not yet done. I'm afraid to break the bolts in removing them!

Before (obviously):


After (Since this photo I've repainted the satin black engine compartment, swapped out the voltage regualtor and refurbished the relays, etc.):

[Denee007]

I don't know where I found this photo, but this is the type of engine mounts I'll probably be using, no 100% sure yet. So whatever headers have to capish with these mounts.

i was trying to find photos of the Sanderson headers that Richard pointed out.

[Denee007]

Gee Dan, that came out really nice!! Good job!!!

[Richard H.]

Here is the info for QP 1000 headers, alot flatter than the tube type.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

[solidaxel]

I like the stock Chevy manifolds, you can grind them smooth and have them ceramic coated for heat reduction, and appearence and the fit well !!
That is the mock up engine by the way!

[Denee007]

omg, I didn't kniow you could do that! Those are the manifolds I have except for the one on the passenger side is for the metal thing to catch the heat to go to the air cleaner. It doesn't have the metal piece anymore. Could I grind all of that off as well? Maybe the machine shop could machine that part off? I'll get it back from my engine man and post a photo of it. Thank you for bringing this to my attention!
: )

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I like the stock Chevy manifolds, you can grind them smooth and have them ceramic coated for heat reduction, and appearence and the fit well !!
That is the mock up engine by the way!

[solidaxel]

Yes all of "extra" pieces will be removed ,
I took mine to a chrome shop and JUST had them grind them smooth and then sent them to coating shop for creamic coating,, This is the third set I have had coated and the ones on the 55 have been on there for 45K miles and they still look great

[Denee007]

So~ I can take these manifolds to, say the same machine shop that blasted them clean, and see if they can do what your saying as far as grinding them smooth? Surely they would know a place that does chroming here in the Houston area! or just the ceramic coating sounds good!
Ps: nice looking setup you have!!
; )

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Yes all of "extra" pieces will be removed ,
I took mine to a chrome shop and JUST had them grind them smooth and then sent them to coating shop for creamic coating,, This is the third set I have had coated and the ones on the 55 have been on there for 45K miles and they still look great

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Gee Dan, that came out really nice!! Good job!!!

Thanks a lot. Bit by bit man, bit by bit.

I've since put a matching finned & polished air cleaner on it and I have plans for a few other improvements. I really want to sandblast the headers and VHT them but I'm frankly afraid to try to take the exhaust manifold bolts off and break them off in the heads! Maybe I'll try the acetone and ATF combo as penetrant.

I thought that grinding cast parts smooth actually did NOT let them shed heat as fast? I had always heard that criticism of guys that ground smooth their blocks before painting them. It's my understanding that ceramic powder coating is supposed to hold the heat in, not let it come out or "shed" the heat faster. But maybe I'm all wet.

[flatbed51]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I like the stock Chevy manifolds, you can grind them smooth and have them ceramic coated for heat reduction, and appearence and the fit well !!
That is the mock up engine by the way!

I agree with solidaxel.

[OrrieG]

I'm a big fan of Ram Horns. I got some POR exhaust paint. Here is a before and after photo, it dries solid to touch after 24 hours, then bakes when you fire the engine. It also smooths out alot of the imperfections. I did not go to the effort to grind off any of the casting marks. Also a photo of Fenton reproductions that are available for about $500 a pair.

[hsdropout]

I just got a SpeedwayMotors.com catalog.....they have quite a good selection of exhaust manifolds & headers and seem to be reasonably priced too. They have polished "tru-ram" that are pretty unique.....not as cool as those fentons though........

[Denee007]

Looks like the ram horns wouldn't heat the starter motor up as much. 1) Would they work with the engine supports like in the photo below? They do look much more classy that the ones I have, but I'm not dismissing the ones I have yet (that's not my engine, I'm just interested in the engine supports), or 2) are there any other notions on what engine supports I should use?

[solidaxel]

If you are talking motor mounts the stock mounts (rubber parts) will work great with the stock cast iron manifolds. You are right the starter will be much happier with the cast iron ones,,,,,,,,and the spark plugs will be MUCH easier to change.
I am not competing in drag races anymore where that 50 extra horse power met winning with burn your hand headers, just say'n !!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Looks like the ram horns wouldn't heat the starter motor up as much. 1) Would they work with the engine supports like in the photo below? They do look much more classy that the ones I have, but I'm not dismissing the ones I have yet (that's not my engine, I'm just interested in the engine supports), or 2) are there any other notions on what engine supports I should use?

They dump behind the motor mounts like the photo. On mine the 2" pipe dumps straight down, then turns 90* to the back and snakes between the transmission, transfer and above the crossmembers. The discharge point is high enough to do that, shorty block hugger headers to the same thing. I did not want anything hanging below the crossmembers to get hung up on stuff in the boonies. My build thread has a section of photos on the exhaust install. I think there are some models that tilt towards the back a little too. The cast iron allows less heat to pass through the walls to affect starters, etc. I like the mount shown in this photo better than the saddle type that go under the pan. You might also look at one made to tri-five cars that bolt to the side frame rails, I don't know if the width is right but would give you an idea on fabbing your own.

[Denee007]

Sorry to get off the topic of exhaust manifolds,but I'm feeling more comfortable kind of knowing what I'll be going with; stock manifolds. But I think the thought of engine mounts has my attention more than the exhaust.
I don't want to have to weld in my parts. I wouldn't mind bolting and welding. I've been practicing welding (I have a 135 amp mig/C25) on 3/16" steel(new and clean) and the welds look good, but I suppose I could practice a lot more before attempting permanent install of weld in supports. Fillet welding is pretty easy, but welding in a frame vertically could really test me, and knowing my weld will support an engine~ eeh, well, I'll practice a lot more ! going to doctor, be back!

http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1959.html

[solidaxel]

I am not real fond of those crossmember mounts you have a site for, did you try and lookat Chassis engineering web site I think they have some bolt on frame mounts.

[Denee007]

I'm still learning about different sites to look for wanted things: Solidaxle, I looked at the site you mentioned, but didn't see anything regarding engine mounts.

I think Orrie mentioned trifive mounts, maybe could "fabricate" these to work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engin...Q5fAccessories

And this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-S...Q5fAccessories

[solidaxel]

Try chassisengineeringinc.com

They have a bunch of bolt in parts

[Denee007]

Wow! that's a nice site and their prices are good! ok, feeling more comfortable with exhaust and engine mounts!
My engine man is dropping off my completed engine today! whoo hoo! I'll post pics of it in my build thread!
; )

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Try chassisengineeringinc.com

They have a bunch of bolt in parts

[tmoble]

I installed a small block in a 57 pickup using mounts similar to those pictured above. Think about how much a fully dressed engine weighs and how long those motor mounts are hanging off the frame. Mine were bolted in and welded across the top. My truck was a street driven vehicle, no rutted dirt roads or mogul jumping. In 6 years of normal street driving the cantilever mount cracked the frame on both sides. After a few years of engineering school I couldn't even figure out why I was surprised it did that. Let's see, cantilever a heavy weight, concentrating the stress in a small area. What could possibly go wrong? As they say. Now my truck has a 2nd gen Camaro subframe where the weight of the engine properly sits on a crossmember designed to support the weight. Those ear things? Not so much.

The Ecklers link with the crossmember, that's what you want. The cracked frame is not pretty. I'd avoid the ebay bolt in ear things like the plague.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by tmoble

I installed a small block in a 57 pickup using mounts similar to those pictured above. Think about how much a fully dressed engine weighs and how long those motor mounts are hanging off the frame. Mine were bolted in and welded across the top. My truck was a street driven vehicle, no rutted dirt roads or mogul jumping. In 6 years of normal street driving the cantilever mount cracked the frame on both sides. After a few years of engineering school I couldn't even figure out why I was surprised it did that. Let's see, cantilever a heavy weight, concentrating the stress in a small area. What could possibly go wrong? As they say. Now my truck has a 2nd gen Camaro subframe where the weight of the engine properly sits on a crossmember designed to support the weight. Those ear things? Not so much.

The Ecklers link with the crossmember, that's what you want. The cracked frame is not pretty. I'd avoid the ebay bolt in ear things like the plague.

Was your frame boxed from the crossmember to the firewall on both sides?