Non power master cylinder help.

[Heartbeat66]

Hi I am sure someone asked this before but I cant seem to find any info on it. I would like to install a non power master cylinder on my truck for my disc/drum setup. I was wondering if anyone knew which master cylinder to use. I have a 79 c10 parts truck for brake lines and prop valve. Any information is greatly appreciated. Y'all have a good day now, ya hear

[wildearp]

You don't want larger than 1" bore for manual brakes, or you will need to do leg work outs.

CPP sells a 1" bore master cylinder with built in proportioning valve. This really cleans up your firewall.

[Heartbeat66]

Thanks. You were reading my mind about clean firewall. The power booster seems so funky looking to me.

[onequickchevy]

I used one for a 1974 c10. It bolted right in, I did have to extend the rod a bit. Clean looking , readily available and cheap.
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[Heartbeat66]

Originally Posted by onequickchevy

I used one for a 1974 c10. It bolted right in, I did have to extend the rod a bit. Clean looking , readily available and cheap.
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how did you extend the rod?

[onequickchevy]

I cut the tapered end off and welded in a 1/2 piece of stock and then welded tapered end back on. The rods are threaded and adjustable, so it's a trial and error type affair until you get good pedal feel. Too short is bad, and so is too long. Good luck with it. I can tell you its amazing how much more fun it is to drive with good brakes!

[wildearp]

CPP also sells the rod. I bought one that had a heim on the end and it worked perfectly for the VW Jetta swing pedals I installed. They are made like most swing pedals. With new brake shoes that are not broken in, at first this will take a lot of leg effort to get braking. It concerned me, with this being the first time I ran without a booster. Once the pads seated, it was just fine. I don't know if the wife is going to be happy about driving it..........

[Heartbeat66]

Thanks guys for your help. I am going to use this 79 chevy as a parts truck. A lot of tube bending and I think I can use the prop valve too. I feel if i spend any money at all I might as well buy the cpp master with prop cause it is only 150. I like the free way better, keep your fingers crossed for me. I am already way over budget and way passed my deadline I set. Thanks again fellas all your help will be well spent. I hope my wife can make this stop too

[Tx Firefighter]

You're not going to need to do any real tube bending. The hard lines will all but bolt into your truck. You'll need to slightly twist the proportioning valve to make it sit flat against the little crossmember under the radiator. Once you've done that, drill the two 5/16 holes to bolt the proportioning valve in place and all the hard lines will lay right in place. The holes are in the frame rails for the front lines to bolt through. Connect to them with factory 73-87 hoses out to the calipers and you're done.

On my 63, I used the entire set of hard lines, unmodified from an 80 model truck. For master cylinder, I used an 80 model non power master cylinder from the parts store. I lengthened the pushrod like mentioned above. That's it.

[Captainfab]

I agree. There's no need to spend $150.00 unless you really feel you need to. You already have the proportioning valve. You will just need to get a master cylinder from your local auto parts store. That'll probably set you back $50.00 or less with the core charge.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

You're not going to need to do any real tube bending. The hard lines will all but bolt into your truck. You'll need to slightly twist the proportioning valve to make it sit flat against the little crossmember under the radiator. Once you've done that, drill the two 5/16 holes to bolt the proportioning valve in place and all the hard lines will lay right in place. The holes are in the frame rails for the front lines to bolt through. Connect to them with factory 73-87 hoses out to the calipers and you're done.

On my 63, I used the entire set of hard lines, unmodified from an 80 model truck. For master cylinder, I used an 80 model non power master cylinder from the parts store. I lengthened the pushrod like mentioned above. That's it.

[Heartbeat66]

I am gonna do the brake line swap tomorrow. I will take some pictures and post them. Thanks everyone for your help. Its much appreciated.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Heartbeat66

Hi I am sure someone asked this before but I cant seem to find any info on it. I would like to install a non power master cylinder on my truck for my disc/drum setup. I was wondering if anyone knew which master cylinder to use. I have a 79 c10 parts truck for brake lines and prop valve. Any information is greatly appreciated. Y'all have a good day now, ya hear

The 79 you have doesn't have a master you can use?
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[Heartbeat66]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

The 79 you have doesn't have a master you can use?
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It has the master with power brake booster. Will that work? I was under the impression I needed to find one for non power brake.

[nachodog2]

I used a '72 corvette manual disc brake master and had no need to mess with the pushrod. I am using a propportioning valve out of a 73 c10. Have had no issues with it.
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[nachodog2]

No booster, just bolt to firewall like original.
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[jocko]

if you need them - some adjustable pushrod kits. Seems many folks are hesitant to weld around on their stock one - these provide some options.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-U...Kit,50351.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...Heim,9329.html

[66-PMD-GMC]

Originally Posted by wildearp

You don't want larger than 1" bore for manual brakes, or you will need to do leg work outs.

CPP sells a 1" bore master cylinder with built in proportioning valve. This really cleans up your firewall.

I put a 34 mm master cylinder from a G3500 and it stops beautiful with no extra effort at all.
In fact, I sometimes forget it's manual.