Day from heck par 2 - Please Help

[ubtripn]

Installed my PS stearing gear and pitman arm, (took 5 huors when it should have been 1) drove it down to get an alignment, the "New" ball-joints I just installed were bad and the guy said he wouldn't even use Moog when I asked, he said they used to be good but are now foreign made and have worse quality. He then said Napa has the best ones. Anyway, I had, the week before, installled a new water pump and fan and on the way home it hit 230. After I shut it off it went up to 260 but I do not have any oil in my coolant or vice versa so I think I didn;t warp the heads. I open the hood to check after it cooled down and my hinge pops a rivet and the spring comes off. I then drive 30 miles to a junkyard that has a truck with hinges and am refused entry because I had flip flops on. I come home, put a nut and bolt through the hole, do not fully tighten and then jack-nut it to keep it on. Then I check LMC for the tool to set the spring and it's 5 bucks. It is a t-handle with a hook just like the kind I use for hay so I use my hay hook on the spring and it works awesome. Next I pull the thermostat completely and it still hits 220 in 85 degree heat in the evening after I drive 2 miles.

Can a water pump be bad right out of the box?

A 350 from 69 has no fan clutch right?

Should I replace the rad since I can see calcification?

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

Can a water pump be bad right out of the box?

Where was it made/remanufactured? I had a Napa reman lose a bearing on my Ford after about 35 miles.

[OhOneWS6]

Make sure that pump is for the type of belt you are using. V-belt water pumps rotate the opposite direction of serpentine belts.

[yuccales]

That was a bad day! Hope you get it all sorted out.

[ubtripn]

Not sure, but it wasn't from Napa. I feels like there is coolant circulating in the hoses when the engine is running.

[ubtripn]

Thanks for the support.

I do believe it is the right pump because it was the one for a 69 350.

[GASoline71]

40 year old original factory radiators can hold a lot of crud in them affecting flow. Have a radiator shop check yours out...

My Dad's 1970 Chevy C10 has a fan clutch from the factory.

Gary

[ubtripn]

Will do. thanks again!

[ChevLoRay]

Maybe it's that "Heat Dome" that's affecting a lot more than people.

I just bought new Moog ball joints for my '69. It's what it had on it before blowing it apart and "cleaning" it up.

As for NAPA being better....the origination of NAPA is "National Automotive Parts Association". It began life as an association of automotive parts manufacturers and suppliers, who joined together to give the fledgling auto repair industry a "one-stop" type of supplier. I have a book from October 1929, that is titled Chilton Yellow Book. Garages would hang it on a nail and refer to it for stuff like bumpers and heaters, or engine specifications. If you wanted a new shift knob and you thought that one that was made from wood and looked like a checker board, it is in there.

Somebody makes what NAPA sells. Their shocks used to be made by Monroe, for instance. Raybestos makes their brake shoes/pads. You can bet that NAPA is going to go with an established icon in the automotive field.

Garages don't like to follow up (at times) when someone else does the work. It makes it real easy for them to blame what you did and the parts you used. I'd find another shop.

[swierker]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

the "New" ball-joints I just installed were bad and the guy said he wouldn't even use Moog when I asked, he said they used to be good but are now foreign made and have worse quality. He then said Napa has the best ones.

When I ordered my front suspension rebuilt kit from ECE, Stan asked I would like Moog or Raybestos. Based on what I heard in the past I would have chosen Moog but Stan recommended Raybestos for this reason, the Moog parts are starting to be made overseas. This was a year ago and I believe all their brake components are Raybestos as well.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

Thanks for the support.

I do believe it is the right pump because it was the one for a 69 350.

Where is that pump from? I have seen it before where the pump purchased was not what was in the box. They look the same externally. It will still move water it just moves it the wrong direction causing over heating problems. I'm not saying this is your issue it's just something to be aware of. Is it a short or long water pump? I believe this is only an issue with long water pumps. A faulty gauge is another possibility.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by swierker

When I ordered my front suspension rebuilt kit from ECE, Stan asked I would like Moog or Raybestos. Based on what I heard in the past I would have chosen Moog but Stan recommended Raybestos for this reason, the Moog parts are starting to be made overseas. This was a year ago and I believe all their brake components are Raybestos as well.

That is interesting. I got my Moog parts from ECE about a year ago. I had an issue with the idler arm... twice. Perhaps that was the start of the decline.

[ubtripn]

Thanks everyone, the pump is a short nose, I bought NAPA rad and am going to install it without a thermostat to see what it does and then put the thermostat in if it all looks good.

[67Slider]

Ubtripn - I have been down the same road. It's funny that you and I have had much of the same problems. Did you get your power steering up and running? I replaced all the ball jointsprior to the steering upgrade but I didn't have any alignment issues after either. Keep up the good work. One problem at a time.