How To Get A 72 K20 To Handle/Corner Well ...

[72longbed]

Here's a "what if?" What if you had a 72 K20 4x4 longbed with a 4" Tuff Country spring lift, LT285/75R16tires ... and you wanted it to handle and corner as good as a pickup truck could?

Would it be necessary to:
1. remove the lift
2. use lower tires?
3. change to some other aftermarket spring packs?

etc., etc.

Just thought I would start this thread and see who has some experience with getting their 67-72 4x4 to really handle well?

Thanks for your opinions.

72longbed

[snj8198]

I have a Tough Country EZ ride 2 inch lift with 315/75R16's. Installing a swaybar helped considerably to lock the sway down. Tho not a race car, it does feel significantly more comfortable driving through the Montana mountain curves at speed. I plan to step up to 17" rims so that may help too by taking some of the sway out of the sidewalls. Making sure all your suspension bushings are in good shape really helps as well.

[TheWhiteElephant]

There is really no comparison on handling between a lifted truck vs a stock height truck. The taller vehicle has a higher center of gravity and is therefore at a disadvantage. A lower truck with a tight suspension and shorter sidewall will always prevail, all other things equal.

One of the things I've come to terms with whenever I work on a truck is to remember to keep things relative. I'm not expecting a soft ride, great gas mileage, sport car handling, etc. I know this doesn't answer your question, but to me, I just try to put things in perspective.

[OldCreek]

Set up a sway bar system? Maybe with disconnects.
Cross over steering
Stiffer side wall tires
New polyurethane body mounts

Just thinking out loud.

[vectorit]

The best thing I have done in the past for making a 4x4 truck handle better on the road, is the best shock absorbers you can find along with proper springs and poly bushes.

[72longbed]

Thanks to all so far. Any pictures/info on front and rear sway bars for a lifted 67-72 4x4? I think I looked into this years ago and there weren't any options other than custom fabbed jobs.

I understand the dynamics difference between lifted vs. stock .... just trying to 'tweek' the best performance from what I got.

Thanks.

[Billhilly]

This was one of the brief's when I started on my truck.
So by default (RHD) I went to a variable ratio steering box with cross over steering. Long travel Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars, and would like to add air bag assist in the future. Can't tell you how any of this worked out handling wise cause that is still in the future too!
Oh, 2" lift springs, new bush's etc. Rear disc conversion, Yellow Stuff Pads. Ahh, stuff like that. Pic's, build here - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=217490 Sway bar info around post #61.
'73 and up front bar fits doesn't it? Add some ORD disconnects. Some for sale on here. Have never seen a picture of a rear bar on a 4X4.

[snj8198]

Any front 1&1/4" sway bar for a 3/4 ton Chevy will work as they bolt to the front spring mount clamps, but you will have to make your own braces to the cross member. I used a chunk of 2x4 square tubing and cut it to fit the contour of the crossmember. Then ordered a set of brackets with poly bushings from Wes at Classis Heartbeat (thanks Wes). Worked slick. The before/after feel of the handling was significant.

-steve

[onebadbowtie]

here are front and rear sway bars for 67-72 4wd trucks.....
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/sway-b...k/pickup-63-87

[Dieselwrencher]

I am going to put front and rear sway bars on my Longhorn. Eventually. I have them on my 95 F-350, which has a 4" lift and 33's. It drives as nice as my stock suspension 05 Dodge did. But, I built some heavy duty end links for my sway bar. On my Longhorn I'm planning on using a sway bar from a first gen dodge to be able to bolt to my axle. The rear might be from a ford. Good shocks is a must like already mentioned.

[snj8198]

I guess i forgot what diameter the swaybar was.

[special-K]

I've always felt my lifted 4wds have handled/cornered really well. I'd think a 4" lifted truck with 285/75s would corner really well. Leaf spring/solid axles give far less body roll than independent suspension. And,lift kits are generally stiffer than stock. I enjoy putting distance between me and the sporty car behind me on cloverleafs and tight turns. It's true the center of gravity is higher,but when you go to 12.5" wide tires on 10" wheels you also ad to the track width and they come close to canceling each other out. You need to be careful,but I find they handle great.

[racin69z]

I'm with special K. I had 6" superlift heavy duty springs (log wagon ride, but no body roll) with rs5000 shocks and 35 12.50 tires when I drove my truck every day. I could push it hard through the corners at highway speeds, and it would start to 4 wheel skid before it felt like it was going to roll. It would really scare the heck out of people who had never rode in it before.

The truck always tracked straight too. I had it well over 100 mph a couple times on the 35's and could have drove with 1 hand on the wheel.

I think a stiff suspension, tight ball joints, tie rods, and drag link are important. As well as the proper steering correction for the lift. In my case I had the 4-6" steering arm.

Lynn