Wheel Spacer Question For The Circuit Rider?

[70cst]

I have discovered the aluminum shavings came from where the passenger side control arm is rubbing the inner lip of my TT Original wheel. I have two options: #1) use a spacer (I will need about 1/2") or #2) buy two new front wheel with about 1/2 inch offset.

Whats the best long term approach. The truck has 2 1/2" drop spindles with factory springs.

[sleepertruck72]

I have never used spacers, but I would not use them personally unless I didnt plan on driving the truck. I would buy new wheels but Im sure others will chime in and say spacers are perfectly ok... Funny thing is I helped lower a friends 99 GMC this weekend and the same thing happened, the lower a arms rubbed the wheel. (4 inch drop) He wanted spacers but we'll see what happens. I hope it works out for you, I know the Circuit Rider is NICE no matter what

[YBNORML]

I run spacers on the back of my 72 blazer. I routinely put around 5000 kms a year on the truck. Not all of those kms are friendly either. I have never had an issue with them. My uncle (member reefer55) also runs a set with no issues. Just my 2 cents.
Jason
Posted via Mobile Device

[1968SWBBigBlock]

I have never cared for spacers - they are hard on bearings and tend to move the point of load further out
Addtionaly you might need longer wheel studs to make sure that you have enough engagement of lug nut threads
What are the demsions of your wheel?

[lolife99]

What's the backspace of your current wheels?

[70cst]

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

I have never cared for spacers - they are hard on bearings and tend to move the point of load further out
Addtionaly you might need longer wheel studs to make sure that you have enough engagement of lug nut threads
What are the demsions of your wheel?

American Racing Torq Thrust Original one-piece cast aluminum custom wheels with light gray center and machined lip. -6mm Offset, 3.75" Backspace.
15x7

I thought I would be ok with these but the aluminum shavings we found at the hotel/meet was due to rubiing issues. I think 1/2" more clearance will be plenty. The driver side seems to be ok. I think I am leaning to new wheels.

[lolife99]

Have you trimmed the lower a-arms?
I bet it only rubs when the wheels are turned.
15x8 ralleys have 4" of backpsacing.
Surely 3.75" BS can be made to work.
(especially with stock springs)

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

I have never cared for spacers - they are hard on bearings and tend to move the point of load further out

Moving the back spacing move the "point of load" exactly the same way. The load will be X distance from the center of the bearing. Good or bad, moving the tire outward is moving the tire outward.

There are different type of spacers. There are rings that just slip over the lugs and are pinched between the rim and hub. Longer studs may be required. The other kind bolts to the old lugs and provides new lugs to mount the rim on.

For 1/2", I would use the 1/4" ring kind, 2 on each side. And keep check on my bearings.

[lolife99]

The AR TTO wheels only come in 1 backspacing. (3.75")
You can't custom order them.

http://www.newstalgiawheel.com/wheel...ubcat3=1011104

[70cst]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Have you trimmed the lower a-arms?
I bet it only rubs when the wheels are turned.
15x8 ralleys have 4" of backpsacing.
Surely 3.75" BS can be made to work.
(especially with stock springs)

You are correct...only on turns. I had the same issue with the 15x8 Ralleys.

[lolife99]

Trim the a-arm and be done.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Trim the a-arm and be done.

I'll look at that option first... I need to measure exacttly how much interferance that I have. I appreciate the input. I am now in the fine tuning stage.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Trim the a-arm and be done.

Bingo.

[68Stepbed]

I have some concerns about this. My truck has 2.5" drop spindles and 1" drop springs. The old 15x8 Hopsters I had on before had 3.75" bs. They NEVER interfered with anything.

This leads me to believe that you may have another issue. I also find it strange that it rubs on one side, but not the other. What brand are your spindles?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

I have some concerns about this. My truck has 2.5" drop spindles and 1" drop springs. The old 15x8 Hopsters I had on before had 3.75" bs. They NEVER interfered with anything.

This leads me to believe that you may have another issue. I also find it strange that it rubs on one side, but not the other. What brand are your spindles?

I think the old style Torq Thrust Originals (TTO's) have a really thick lip, since they are a 1-piece wheel.
I would look at both lower a-arms.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think the old style Torq Thrust Originals (TTO's) have a really thick lip, since they are a 1-piece wheel.
I would look at both lower a-arms.

Spindles are ECE

Its interesting that Ralleys have the similiar issues. As I have read old threads it seems that some people have rubbng issues when with drop spindles when they turn and some people don't.

[CHEVYCREW99]

I had a similar issue with some of my old projects and I found that the best solution is to look at the wheel Lock to Lock and see when it is rubbing. More than likely it is the rear of your control arm and if it is then you can just Adjust the steering stop on the lower control arm by adding (Welding) a small amount of material to the contact face where it touches off on the back side of the spindle casting. (if it is the front you add material to the opposite side control arm) This eliminates a need for cutting the control arm and has a minimal change in your turning radius.

Hope this helps.

[CHEVYCREW99]

Here is where to add thickness to reduce the wheel travel.