99 ZR2 no power to gauges

[dmack91]

OK, so my son's fuel pump went out. Ordered a new one and went to move the truck into the garage today (hoped it would start one last time to move it into the garage if I hit the bottom of the tank - no dice)

Now I see that the gauges and warning lights on the dash don't come on when the key is turned on. It will crank, but shows no movement on the gauges. I pulled the gauge fuse, and it shows no power when the key is turned on. All the lights (head, park, and brake) work, and the engine cranks. Battery is at 12.5v static.

Engine is 4.3 and auto trans with floor shift.

It wouldn't shift out of park either (yes, key was on and brake depressed). I was able to bypass the lock-out, put it in neutral, and get it into the garage finally. I can see where the lock button moves a metal piece through the center of the shifter, but nothing sticks out to disengage the lockout (plastic) switch. I will disassemble the console tomorrow to try to see what is missing or out of alignment.

Lifted the bed off and will change out the fuel pump/sender tomorrow. I don't know where to start on the gauge problem. Is there a lockout switch that could be malfunctioning? The brake lights work, so I am assuming that switch isn't causing the problem.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Chevy350V8]

Im sorry I cant help you with ur question but if I can ask, can you post a pic of the floor shifter? Thanks

[dmack91]

Here are some pics of the shifter. The slot in the shift rod shows the inner rod that moves up and down when you press the lockout button on the side of the shifter. I can see it move up and down, but nothing sticks out to engage the lockout switch (white plastic flat piece at the bottom of the shifter on the floor). I don't know if a piece broke/fell off or what.

Sorry for the pic quality.

[68C15]

leave the shifter alone!!!!
check the ignition switch for powers. I don't have my diagrams handy but it sounds like one of the circuits is dead. nothing new for this era of GM.

[dmack91]

That is my thought. Since I am not able to shift out of park, and no power to the gauges, I am thinking something in the column isn't connecting.

Any suggestions where to start?

[68C15]

I'll try to remember to look them up on Monday and get back to you that night.

[dmack91]

Quick change - it is a 97, not a 99 (that is my cummins).

Sorry for the mistake and thanks for the help.

[68C15]

97 ZR2 4.3, got it.

[dmack91]

Just replaced the fuel pump that was going out, and now it doesn't have power. Engine will crank, but no juice to the gauges, shifter release, or fuel pump.

Did I mention how much I prefer working on my 68 C20?

[68C15]

did I mention how I am a forgetful moron?
I'll try and remember today.

[Chevy350V8]

I just wanted pics of the shifter cause i thought it was cool haha

[68C15]

circuit 3, pin C5 of ignition switch feeds all the items you are having issues with along with many, many other items. I'll bet your turn signal, back up lights, daytime running lights, rear defog, airbag, 4x4, remote door locks, evap purge, and vent solenoids, and oxygen sensor heaters are also offline. there is a bunch more but that is not evident if car doesn't run.
it is in the center of connector, a large pink wire 5 positions from the end. anything less than battery voltage indicates a problem. next to it is the red wire that feeds that portion of switch from fusible link #3 on driver's inner fender. fusible link box is fed from rear of alternator. rear of alt. is fed from battery.

in short, you need an ignition switch. AC Delco D1498C, standard US295, GM 26061329. should take 2 hours or less

[dmack91]

Wow, thanks for the detailed help! I just went and checked and yes, the DRL and turn signals don't work. I will check the power readings after work and hope that confirms the problem.

Thanks again,
Dave

[68C15]

oh, almost forgot. you will need a long (2") E4 (maybe E5) female torx socket to remove switch from column.

[dmack91]

68C15 - just tested it and are only getting 0.08V to the pink wire with the switch on, 0 with the key off. The red wire next to it, that you indicated is alternator, has battery voltage.

So, it looks like we need a switch. Now a quick question, can I confirm by running a jumper wire to the pink wire, or do I risk frying something?

Thanks for all the help - never could have figured it out without your help.

Dave

[68C15]

further testing is not needed. replace it.

[dmack91]

Ordering today - thanks again for the help.

[dmack91]

Switch replaced and we are back up and running (gas gauge still doesn't work, but it never did. New pump/sender didn't seem to help).

Thanks again 68C15!!