Tips or tricks to swapping trail and panard bar bushing?

[jayharrell]

Got my parts in today to replace my trailing arm and panard bar bushing.

But i just figured out i have no idea where to start with taking this thing apart.

Do i need to compress the springs?
Do i put the jack stands on the frame and let the rear end dangle?

Any procedure to this that won't kill me??

Thanks for the help

JRH

[stealthy '69]

no need to compress the springs. Just put jack stands on the frame where they won't be in your way and use a jack to "support" the rearend when you unbolt the springs. Then just lower the rearend down on the tires or floor, your preference.

[jayharrell]

So the rear end will have to come completely out??

Can i just put the jack under the front of the trailing arm, unbolt it, then ease the arm down?

[stealthy '69]

Originally Posted by jayharrell

So the rear end will have to come completely out??

Can i just put the jack under the front of the trailing arm, unbolt it, then ease the arm down?

Sorry i read your post wrong. I thought you were changing springs too. No the rear end doesn't need to come out. It would make the job a lot easier if you unbolted the arms and removed them completely though so you can work on them out in the open. Instead of trying to change them under the truck. From what I've seen here, those bushings are a bit of a pain to get out of the the arms.

[stealthy '69]

Here are a few threads with some good info.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...g+arm+bushings

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ng+arm+bushing

[SCOTI]

With the springs & shocks still connected, it definitely adds difficulty getting the T/A in/out of the front mount.

I've personally never been able to press original bushings out, it always required some heat. Actually, it took fire (I've had to torch them out). I have heard of others being successful drilling them & then being able to press them out but the bits I used kept 'biting' the rubber which would jerk the drill right out of my hands.

After a few times of that, the torch came out.....

[Dunenutt]

If you dont want to take the arms off, be very carefull. Lift the whole rear off of the ground, put jack stands under the frame, REMOVE AT LEAST ONE SHOCK BOLT ON EACH SHOCK, lower the truck until the axle is hanging, put a jack under the axle to support it. It's easier to remove the tires, you dont have to lift it as high.

This will remove any stored energy from the springs. Springs can be very deadly when under load.

Then remove the two front swingarm bolts and tip it down to the floor. Like stated above, burning them out is much easier. Heat the surrounding steel until the rubber starts burning, then push them out with a punch, or bar. Be careful, the burning rubber will splatter and burn your skin for a long time. There is no way to wipe it off, or cool it down quickly. Clean out the bores, and install new bushings.

[jayharrell]

Thanks for the info. Now time to change them out before it gets too hot this morning.

[Hubscrub]

i just did this yesterday i took a small drill bit and drilled multiple holes into the old rubber bushing and then knocked the metal center out with a hammer.

[jayharrell]

I have one side done now, or at least u bolted.
It looks like i have to get both arms unbolted from the front cross member to have enough slack to slide everything back so the arms will drop out of the front brackets.

It got too hot so i'll let the PB blaster soak and cool off for a while.

[Already Gone]

ttt

[xludan]

I just installed new bushings today. I burnt out the old rubber and had the new ones pressed in at the local parts store. They have a hydraulic press so it only took them about 2 minutes to press in 4 bushings.

[jayharrell]

My bushing are poly from GMC paul. Does anyone have a picture or idea of how the small outer bushing washer thing goes on?

It is flat on one side and has a small shoulder on the other. the shoulder is stepped up.

It came in the pack with that small step up on the out side, but i've tried a few times to install the arms back in the brakets and it keeps catching that shoulder and rolls it off.

Should that thing be turned around?

ttt

[oldblue1968chevy]

i had good luck with the 20 ton press..

[jayharrell]

I got the new ones in, but there is a little extra washer thing.

Is it even needed?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jayharrell

I got the new ones in, but there is a little extra washer thing.

Is it even needed?

They're in the package so I put them on. One side of the bushing has a difinitive shoulder. The 'washer' goes on the opposite side between the T/A mounting flange & the T/A. I'll look when I get home from work, but I should have a pair sitting around that I can take a pic of.

[jayharrell]

Any idea how the other little bushing part goes on?

[jayharrell]

i think i may have gotten the wrong 'washer' or outer sleave. from all the other i've seen on ebay and other parts sites, they do not have a shoulder build into them...

[jayharrell]

OK so after pulling everything back apart he main bushing is fine with a #60375 stamped on it. But the smaller spacer with a #64381 stamped it it seems to be too thick. About 3/16'' too thick. Its that much thicker then the other side of the main bushing.

Can anyone verify that the #64381 the correct spacer? They are Prothane from GMC Paul btw.

[jayharrell]

by 'thick' i mean wider.

ttt

[jayharrell]

[Hubscrub]

i don't remember my bushings for my 71 i installed having those, but the ones i ordered recently for the wife's 67 came with them/ i'd say it would be fine without them i've been running mine like that.

[Hubscrub]

i knocked mine in today and installed i had to grind down the small ring on the belt sander to sit flush and it went in good after that.

[jayharrell]

Yeah.. thats what i wound up doing in the end. Just sanded it down and it went together great.