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04-10-2003, 11:30 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA
Posts: 1,579
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the good and the bad
Well, I finally got the beast in the garage. Finally ready to install the rear end I got from Desert Rat. I figured Id be torchin my u-bolts or cuttin em, a litlte liquid wrench, my impact and tada, all set
 However! My powdercoated rallys appear to be seized up on the rear hubs, I think the coating and clearcoating is just thick enough to wedge it on. Anybody have any ideas?  Im not messin up the powdercoat, neighbor said "hit it with a sledgehammer "
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70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster |
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04-10-2003, 11:40 AM
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#2 |
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Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
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I've seen this with painted wheels too, the rust builds up on the drum/hub in the center and locks the wheel in place. The only way I've ever found that works is to whack them with a hammer. You could use a dead blow hammer instead of a steel hammer, then the damage to the powercoat would be minimal. Also, maybe a bottle jack and a block against the frame or control arm. Be careful not to bend the wheel with the jack.
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67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
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04-10-2003, 11:46 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA
Posts: 1,579
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Thanks Buck. Dont know why I didnt think of the dead blow. I gotta get em off, its cruise season.
Any one else?
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70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster |
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04-10-2003, 01:13 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Gassville, AR
Posts: 246
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I usually just grab the tire and shake the piss out of it. It might take awhile but they will come off.
Taylor
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'72 S/S Chevy- in progress |
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04-10-2003, 01:37 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Stillwater MN
Posts: 1,166
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I sit on the floor, and kick them on opposite sides. If they don't come loose enough to wiggle after a few kicks, I run the nuts back on loose and drive it back and forth about 20 feet to loosen them, but it doesn't sound like it's drivable any more? A piece of 4x4 wood against the inside of the tire will protect them also, if you need to go to the BFH.
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. 
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04-10-2003, 01:55 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 695
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Loosen the lug nuts (but don't take them off) and then drive around turning left and right to put some side loading on the wheels. That will usually pop them loose.
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1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide |
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04-10-2003, 02:27 PM
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#7 | |
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Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,283
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i do what class of 69 does, kick back and forth untill its loose enough to wiggle off
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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04-14-2003, 10:56 AM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA
Posts: 1,579
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Kickin didnt help, but the puller I forgot I had did. Man, when they came off, it was loud.
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70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster |
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