no suspension, now what?

[Denee007]

Hi, it's been a while, but I've been fairly busy. I got around to removing my front suspension to replace it with what?
I have a friend that's helping me with decisions, but do like to hear the consensus from ya'll too.
ONe thing I have to convey, is that the fenders can't be removed due to the PO, or the body shop that did the paint/body work, kind of made the fenders semi-permanent by using filler between the fenders and whatever else. This morning I'll be removing the inner fenders, so there should be ample room for "whatever" I put in.
Leaning towards the MII, but I've been reading, surfing the net ,and seems very few people like the MII!? All I've read is, "I don't like it?" kind of responses. However, I do read a lot of good things about the front clip swaps. I think I could do it ok, but can it be done with the body and front fenders on? Otherwise the Mustang II would probably be my best choice or just stick with stock front end(new of course).
I'll be back, going to pull out the front inner fenders.
dne' ; )

[entourageguy]

and away we go.
MII or a camaro clip.

[Indian113]

UH-OH!!! I have my own ideas,If I was going to do a IFS that wasn't a Nova/Camaro I would look real hard at Scott's IFS Kit. Pricy but well thought out!!! Camaro would be my first choice though.

[Denee007]

You know, I think the most intimidating thing in these professional builds is their magnificent welding! I'm going to need to spend a great deal of time at my welding table practicing with my Tig and my mig! I need to do that anyway! lol

[mknittle]

First, I would fix the fenders so you can remove them. It would be very hard to get the measurements to get any front straight let alone welding it.If fender wells will need modifications you would have to cut first and ask questions later. it would be add once again as much work. Besides filled seams often crack.

Mark

[Indian113]

Originally Posted by denee007

you know, i think the most intimidating thing in these professional builds is their magnificent welding! I'm going to need to spend a great deal of time at my welding table practicing with my tig and my mig! I need to do that anyway! Lol

practice-practice-practice-practice!!!!!!!!!!!

[Indian113]

Try this web site- http:www.car-part.com/ I use it a lot and it will tell you price ,distance and condition

[LDO]

Denee,
Here's my opinion.

First, it would depend on what you want from the truck. Then, take a look at the current state of your truck. Is is 6 lug? Do you already have nice 6 lug wheels that you want to keep? What's your budget? Now, overlay that on what your final vision is for your truck.

With me, it was simple, I already had 6 lug wheels that are fine for now so I didn't want to go 5 lug then have to find new front AND rear wheels (more $$). I'm GTG with the current suspension except I want the front 3" or so lower so I figure I'll just rebubuild the front end, get a dropped axle from sid and throw on a toyota power steering kit and add some disks.

Some may argue that I'll have just as much invested if I went another route but for me, this is what I want to do.

[Denee007]

uh, just got a sick feeling Mark, cause I know you're right. I'll contact the bodyshop that did the paint, I hope they can mimick the paintwork. It's metallic burgundy with pearl and apparently alot of clear. uh boy~

Originally Posted by mknittle

First, I would fix the fenders so you can remove them. It would be very hard to get the measurements to get any front straight let alone welding it.If fender wells will need modifications you would have to cut first and ask questions later. it would be add once again as much work. Besides filled seams often crack.

Mark

[Denee007]

I love opinions! They came with 6 lugs? Mine are 5~ is that good? It has crossed my mind to "overhaul" the current hardware, put new springs, and perhaps the dropped axle like you said. Actually winds up being about the same price and maybe not as much labor, or that doesn't really matter. I have the disc brakes already(they were on there). so I'm part way there. What do I want~ ? we drive to the Nifty50ee's there and back, that will be about the extent of where the truck will go. I just want it to be safe and hold the road and not kill anyone! Need to really keep it simple! I keep being swayed cause the options look really great and tempting and challenging! I'm trying to keep the cost down for my husband sanity!

Originally Posted by LDO

Denee,
Here's my opinion.

First, it would depend on what you want from the truck. Then, take a look at the current state of your truck. Is is 6 lug? Do you already have nice 6 lug wheels that you want to keep? What's your budget? Now, overlay that on what your final vision is for your truck.

With me, it was simple, I already had 6 lug wheels that are fine for now so I didn't want to go 5 lug then have to find new front AND rear wheels (more $$). I'm GTG with the current suspension except I want the front 3" or so lower so I figure I'll just rebubuild the front end, get a dropped axle from sid and throw on a toyota power steering kit and add some disks.

Some may argue that I'll have just as much invested if I went another route but for me, this is what I want to do.

[Speedbumpauto]

I've done both Camaro and A Hiedts front clip. IMO keeping the rails whole and easy to square make it a no brainer. The M-2 would be my choice without hesitation. I also think you could do it with the fenders on. I found I needed to mock up the fenders at least twice to make sure the wheels fit correctly in the wheel wells. The stock truck has the tires too far back in the opening, IMO, and if you lower it with either kit, you need to move your crossmemer forward to make it look right. The Camaro on my current project needed to come forward 1 3/4 inches to be asthetically pleasing. Cover and mask your fenders well, tack stuff in place, use a plumb bob and a center line drawn on your floor for reference, weld a piece of tubing across the frame just in front of the firewall to maintain square while you work and you'll be fine. A beauty of using the coil over upgrade to Heidts and others is it's very easy to mock up stuff and check your work, AND, the ride height is somewhat adjustable if needed. Does cost a little extra though.

[Indian113]

I agree that with the fenders on the Mll would have a edge on the camaro,but it could be done with some bracing! I moved my wheels on my 53- 1 1/2 in. to get them right when I did my Nova on it. Speedbumpauto you did give some good advice,nice to hear from someone who has done both

[mr48chev]

I'd go along with the others on the MII crossmember and suspension being probably the way to go with this. One more that you might want to look into is the XJ6 crossmember and suspension that a couple of guys here on the board have put under their trucks. It comes out of the Jag as a complete unit and if you shop right the price isn't that bad.

Some guys are also looking at the Ford Crown Victoria front suspension but that is pretty wide and there are real issues with what wheels and tires will fit inside the fenders. There is another thread on here on that.

Unless someone just came up with one I don't think that there is a bolt on MII style crossmember like there is for the AD trucks. That would be the simple way to go and you wouldn't have to worry about pulling the fenders.
It is all drill holes and bolt it on.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by mknittle

First, I would fix the fenders so you can remove them. It would be very hard to get the measurements to get any front straight let alone welding it. If fender wells will need modifications you would have to cut first and ask questions later. it would be add once again as much work. Besides filled seams often crack.

Mark

Fixing the fenders is a huge undertaking. I've seen it and its scary. It would require a repaint of sections and this paint is a burgundy metal flake with color change from green to red. I don't know if the paint could be matched. The seams aren't just filled but welded.

[dwcsr]

I think I would fix the current suspension or use one like Kimbridge makes. You may have seen the one I have leaning against my fleetside. It can be done fenders on and uses GM G or A body parts or S10 and are cheap and plentiful.

http://www.kimbridgeent.com/194755chevypickup.htm about mid way down the page, 55-59 clip

If you want to see one up close call and I set up a time with you.

[OrrieG]

I think you need to pull the front clip if you are doing suspension work. The fenders, inner fenders, radiator support, radiator and grill all come off by removing the front bumper, 2 rad support bolts, fender bolt at top, fender brace bolt at bottom, inner panel bolts at fire wall and bottom back fender bolts. 10 bolts total, remember to count the shims (take pictures) so the alignment stays the same. Forgot you need to pull the hood brackets, if they were lined up correctly drill 1/8" pilot holes before removal so it goes back the same. Two or three people can lift the whole "dog house" off. Also makes all the lower engine stuff easier to fab or work on. Tape the exposed painted edges with blue tape for protection. Also some wiring connectors at fire wall and head/turnsignals to disconnect.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I think you need to pull the front clip if you are doing suspension work. The fenders, inner fenders, radiator support, radiator and grill all come off by removing the front bumper, 2 rad support bolts, fender bolt at top, fender brace bolt at bottom, inner panel bolts at fire wall and bottom back fender bolts. 10 bolts total, remember to count the shims (take pictures) so the alignment stays the same. Forgot you need to pull the hood brackets, if they were lined up correctly drill 1/8" pilot holes before removal so it goes back the same. Two or three people can lift the whole "dog house" off. Also makes all the lower engine stuff easier to fab or work on. Tape the exposed painted edges with blue tape for protection. Also some wiring connectors at fire wall and head/turnsignals to disconnect.

I like this idea the best of all the easy fixes.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I think you need to pull the front clip if you are doing suspension work. The fenders, inner fenders, radiator support, radiator and grill all come off by removing the front bumper, 2 rad support bolts, fender bolt at top, fender brace bolt at bottom, inner panel bolts at fire wall and bottom back fender bolts. 10 bolts total, remember to count the shims (take pictures) so the alignment stays the same. Forgot you need to pull the hood brackets, if they were lined up correctly drill 1/8" pilot holes before removal so it goes back the same. Two or three people can lift the whole "dog house" off. Also makes all the lower engine stuff easier to fab or work on. Tape the exposed painted edges with blue tape for protection. Also some wiring connectors at fire wall and head/turnsignals to disconnect.

This front end can't come off on her truck. On a normal truck you could do as you describe but on this truck the lower fenders are not bolted on they are welded, almost every seam is filled, don't know with what the lower pillars are welded, fiberglassed and bondoed together, not a bolt in site. It would be a major mess trying to take the fenders off her truck and then trying to get a paint match. I've seen the truck and she needs a suspension that can be installed with the fenders on.

[parkwood]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Hi, it's been a while, but I've been fairly busy. I got around to removing my front suspension to replace it with what?
I have a friend that's helping me with decisions, but do like to hear the consensus from ya'll too.
ONe thing I have to convey, is that the fenders can't be removed due to the PO, or the body shop that did the paint/body work, kind of made the fenders semi-permanent by using filler between the fenders and whatever else. This morning I'll be removing the inner fenders, so there should be ample room for "whatever" I put in.
Leaning towards the MII, but I've been reading, surfing the net ,and seems very few people like the MII!? All I've read is, "I don't like it?" kind of responses. However, I do read a lot of good things about the front clip swaps. I think I could do it ok, but can it be done with the body and front fenders on? Otherwise the Mustang II would probably be my best choice or just stick with stock front end(new of course).
I'll be back, going to pull out the front inner fenders.
dne' ; )

Boy you opened a can of worms...........

[BigDan3131]

With a metal flake paint job your odds of even the original painter being able to color match it is slim. Stay with the stock type suspension, if my former boss thinks it can handle his 700hp bbc. I think it will be fine for you too. We just added the disc brakes and new grease fittings to the leaves, the only other thing was to mount a late model power steering unit.

[Denee007]

I'm pretty good at that! Just like my Mustang coupe, long term project and lots of money! Just ordered the Mustang II IFS, I'm not looking back! ; )

Originally Posted by parkwood

Boy you opened a can of worms...........

[jjjmm56]

In your case a M/2 would be the best bet. With a clip you'll need to fab the front fender support mounts,pretty hard to do without removing the fenders. There are a lot of M/2s out there and a lot of install info out there.

[lpguy]

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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

This front end can't come off on her truck. On a normal truck you could do as you describe but on this truck the lower fenders are not bolted on they are welded, almost every seam is filled, don't know with what the lower pillars are welded, fiberglassed and bondoed together, not a bolt in site. It would be a major mess trying to take the fenders off her truck and then trying to get a paint match. I've seen the truck and she needs a suspension that can be installed with the fenders on.

Why cant the fenders front core support and grille come off in one unit?

[tech@scottshotrods]

we manufacture a complete front crossmember for these trucks which comes complete from hub-hub we offer them with either coil-over or air bag, manuel or power rack, std brakes are 11" rotor with a gm caliper, the upper and lower a-arms are 1 1/8" 1/4 wall DOM and are adjustable upper and lower with billet 304 stainless ends, the cross member it self is made of .316 wall structural steel and is 100% TIG welded....
right now we are offering a forum special for the complete package of 2000.00 which is a 400.00 savings!

shown is our 63-87 c-10 bolt in w/ splinned sway bar